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Hi Carrie, please keep all the info regarding this problem within your other thread--when people post the same question in multiple places it makes it hard for the people trying to help, and makes it kind of tough for us to keep the forum organized.
Thanks!!!
Jan
Ok, this is where I am on this little pool. After the super dose of bleach the other day the pool was perfectly clear the next morning. What I do have a problem with to some degree is the what I assume is dead algae. Without a proper vacuum I think I am stuck with a little of the debris from the algae bloom. If I keep it stirred and the filter clean it gets maybe 3/4 of it but never all. Probably should have changed the water as Watermom suggested and may yet.
The main reason I am in here tonight is for help with the Taylor 2006 kit. There is a link below to a copy of the instructions. In Step 1 there is a reference to using one of two amounts of water for the test. This confuses me. The next thing is in Step 4 in particular the line.... Multiply drops in Step 3 by drop equivalence (Step 1). I also have the same basic question about Step 7....Multiply drops in Step 6 by drop equivalence (Step 1). I think I understand the rest on the chlorine test. I haven't even ventured into the other tests yet.
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/pr...er&Number=5138
This is going along fairly well and would like to thank Watermom and the rest of the forum for helping me.
Mike
What they mean on the chlorine test is that you can either run the test on a 10ml or a 25ml water sample. After you put in the R-0870 powder, you then add the R-0871 drops one at a time and swirl after each drop. Count how many drops you have to add to turn it clear. If you used a 10ml water sample, then you mulitiply the number of drops x 0.5. With a 25ml water sample, multiply the number of drops x 0.2. This will be your FC reading.
On the next part of the test (finding CC) again, you count drops and if you used the 10ml sample, multiply the numbers of drops x 0.5 and for the 25ml sample, it would be number of drops x 0.2.
Hope this helps.
Mike, if you test with the 10ml sample, you'll use less of your reagents. BUT, by doing so, you'll only be able to test at .5 ppm resoultion (.2 is more 'accurate' than .5). That being said, .5 is fine IMHO.
PS, when you put the powder in, if it turns pink with one scoop that's all you need to use (save the other scoop for your next test :))
If that's really so, that would save a lot on the powder. When I first started using the kit about two weeks ago, I looked on Taylor's website, and they have instructional videos for testing. With the FAS-DPD test, the demonstrator showed that he was putting in two overflowing scoops, in fact it ran way up the handle, and they said that it didn't matter if they were larger, but they said nothing about being smaller. It made me scratch my head watching that, because what's the difference between two level scoops and one overflowing?? So I've been doing two level carefully to conserve, but if one level works, that's even better.Quote:
PS, when you put the powder in, if it turns pink with one scoop that's all you need to use (save the other scoop for your next test
Dan
It my understanding that as long as it turns bright red/pink, you're set. I also take into account that they say if you add 2 and it's still clear (when testing super high levels), that you just need to add another scoop until it turns red. I think I read in another post about this; that's where I first got it. I'm sure if it's not right, one of the mods or chem geek will let us know :)
If one scoop turns it pink, you don't need to put in another scoop. Save the powder. Also, just FYI, sometimes when you swirl the tube after putting in the powder, there may be a few small clumps that don't dissolve all the way. If that happens, it is not a problem.
Watermom got me straight on the directions and someone else explained why there are two amounts of water referenced. I worked with the kit using a 10ml sample the first time. The FC came in at .5 so I did it again using the 25ml thinking it may be more accurate at those low levels. I'm glad I did because the FC came up somewhat higher meaning I think my first time may have been less than accurate. As a curiosity I am posting my most accurate test strip results taken at the same time I used the kit.
Strip
FC .7
PH 7.4
TA 90
Taylor kit
FC 1.6
PH 7.2
TA 100
CA 27
On the CA test the first time the black dot never completely disappeared.
The second time the tube was so full that another drop would have run off the side but I think that is the point the dot disappeared. That is off the top of the scale so my best estimate is the 27 number. I forgot to get CC levels both times I tested.
The water is almost clear but not sparkling like my neighbors pool. I add about 6 ounces of 6% bleach once a day and that must be enough to stop algae. At this time I really don't have problem I can't live with but some comments would be great.
Mike
We really need to see a CC reading. That is an important reading because it kind of acts as an alert when there is something going on with your water even before you can see a problem. Repost with that reading.
6 oz. would take your cl level to around 3ppm which is ok for such a low cya pool. Are you ever going to 0 chlorine level during the day? If you do, you may have some CC which could account for the cloudy pool.
TA and pH look ok but just keep an eye on the pH and make sure it doesn't go any lower. If it does, you'll want to add a little Borax to bump it back up.
a knee highstocking works as well as a skimmer sock just let it dry after use and brush the dirt off and re use next time