Too much Mule Team?

How does the water look?

BPS,
For now I would just bring your Chlorine up to the 8-10 range. You can order reagent refills for your test kit from several places online. My favorite is http://www.spspools-spas.com. They have quick service, are very friendly, and seem to be competitively priced.

Janet

The water is crystal clear and blue. I've been fighting this since May 10th so it's wonderful to actually see the water with no green tint and the test results in check. Thank you so much for all your help!

OK - I have been adding Mule Team and chlorine as well as pumping out water ...today readings:

FC = 20
CC = 0
pH = 6.8 (still after 4 boxes / 16 lbs of Borax)
TA = 60 (this seems to be going up)
CYA = 60 (down from 120)

Still blueish clouds in the pool and I have to rinse off my cartridge filter every couple of hours - caked in some royal blue stuff. Any idea what that is?

Not sure what the blue stuff is, but keep working on that pH. After you add Borax, wait a couple hours, retest and redose. You want to get it above 7.0 ASAP.

CYA of 60 will be much easier to manage. NO more trichlor or dichlor in your pool, though. Keep up the good work and let us know how it is going.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Watermom

Since the pH is so low, go ahead and do a half a box at a time. Once you start to see the pH move, back down to smaller additions, though. You don't have to wait too long between additions -- a couple of hours should be fine. Then, retest, redose. I would just put it in the skimmer breaking up any clumps, although sprinkling it around the pool is ok. It won't get the ph up any faster, though.

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Thanks - Another box of mule team and now we're moving ...pH is now 7.2 and FC =23 w CC=0 (CYA ~60). Still have honolulu blue clouds in pool and killing my cartridge every 20 minutes but at least starting to see the pH get back to normal. The other thing I noticed was during TA test. it went to yellow instead of red (60) - in the past it's always gone green to red, today went blue to yellow. What does that mean? Thanks for your help - I haven't found any explanation for the blue stuff yet.

Blue to yellow in the TA test is normal when the FC is high. This is described in the Taylor interferences description here. It's still a valid test -- the colors will just be different. As an alternative, you can add more thiosulfate (R-0007) when you know the chlorine is high -- around 2 drops for every 10 ppm FC, maybe a little more.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chem geek

Blue to yellow in the TA test is normal when the FC is high. This is described in the Taylor interferences description here. It's still a valid test -- the colors will just be different. As an alternative, you can add more thiosulfate (R-0007) when you know the chlorine is high -- around 2 drops for every 10 ppm FC, maybe a little more.

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Nice! Yes, when you run the T/A test you are supposed to start with 2 drops of R-0007--the chlorine neutralizer. But it's nice to know that if your FC is between 10 and 20, you need two more drops. Thanks, Richard!