Copper Piping Failure

Thanks, Dave! Before I add the bleach I have another question. . .The pool store tested for metals and said that the copper is at 10 and the iron is at 6.6. They said to add 10 bottles of Omni (sequestoring stuff?!?). They also said not to add chlorine again until the metals were down. When the chlorine was added previously, the pool immediately turned green. I assume that was a reaction to the Omni stuff? Anyway, should the water be tested for metals again or should I go ahead and get the chlorine and pH where they belong. THANK YOU!!

Sherry, you've got a multitude of issues with your pool water. Those metal results seem pretty high. I would give serious thought to a drain and refill at this point.

Adding the sequestrant prior to the chlorine is a good idea (mbar or other metal "specialists" can advise you better than I) but I'm not so sure that the cost and hassle of the sequestrant, all the clorox, borax, then probably having to aerate to get your Alk down will make it more cost-attractive to start with new water.

You'll have to make the decision but I think, if it were my pool, I'd make a fresh start.....you'll be swimming in a lot less time.

Dave - I have been thinking the same thing. With the expense of fixing the heater (it was hard piped for the water to go thru the filter/pump then into the heater) and the cost of the chemicals, it may be worth a drain/refill. If I would go that route, would you recommend a complete drain or only partial? We are in Western PA and I don't want the liner to "float" if we do a complete refill and cause more problems. Is there a magic number that is safe to drain to before you destroy your liner?

Sherry,

You might be a candidate for the "plastic sheet method" that's been mentioned on this forum several times but I'm not sure anyone has actually tried it.

Basically, buy enough 4 mil poly sheeting to make a 36' dia circle. (width of your pool plus 4' on each side for the depth. You'll have to tape smaller pieces together (duct tape) to form this piece.

Lay the piece on top of your pool and begin draining. As the water goes down, add the new fill water on top of the plastic at the same rate you are draining the old water from underneath.

The plastic separates the two bodies of water (perhaps not perfectly, but close enough) and, when it reaches the bottom, you have done a complete refil without reducing the total volume in your pool at any time.

Again, it's a great idea and I see no reason why it wouldn't work.....just don't think anyone on the forum has actually done it. If they have, maybe they'll chime in and report results.

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Originally Posted by SherrySt

Thanks, Dave! Before I add the bleach I have another question. . .The pool store tested for metals and said that the copper is at 10 and the iron is at 6.6. They said to add 10 bottles of Omni (sequestoring stuff?!?). They also said not to add chlorine again until the metals were down. When the chlorine was added previously, the pool immediately turned green. I assume that was a reaction to the Omni stuff? Anyway, should the water be tested for metals again or should I go ahead and get the chlorine and pH where they belong. THANK YOU!!

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I would drain and refill...your copper levels are through the roof and so is your iron. Sequesterant will not remove the metals...just make them unreactive with chlorine for a time and then your problems will return unless you keep adding sequesterant. In the long run draining will be your least expensive option! Stop the trichlor...that is what caused the problem in the first place (actually, not keeping tabs on your pH caused the problem with the low pH but your CYA levels are also very high). The plastic sheet method is probably your best bet. If you add chlorine now your water will turn green as the chlorine oxidizes the copper in the water.

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Originally Posted by duraleigh

You'll have to tape smaller pieces together (duct tape) to form this piece.

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You can buy large pieces of plastic from greenhouse supply places that will be big enough with no patching. We used to have above ground tanks at work that were drained and refilled this way, and it does work. Ladders etc. might have to come out.