Re: I'm still confused...
You're welcome. i hope you went ahead and added more bleach this morning. With a 6.5ppm chlorine drop overnight and a CC reading of 1ppm, you are still in the fight. Continue to keep the chlorine at shock level, testing and adding bleach several times each day and especially important to do so in the evenings. And, continue to do the overnight test as described above. You need to continue to do this until you lose no more than 1ppm of chlorine overnight, have no more than a 0.5ppm CC and the water is clear. Once all three of these conditions are met, then keep the chlorine high for one additional day and then you can let it drift down.
You do need to lower the pH with some muriatic acid as I mentioned before. However, having said that, please make sure you test the pH when the chlorine isn't so high. Testing it at shock levels will usually give a falsely high pH reading. *IF* your pH reading above was done when the pH was at shock level, don't trust it and don't add any muriatic acid until the pH test is run again with lower chlorine levels.
Once you get this cleared up, what are your plans for adding CYA? Do you want to buy some and add it separately or do you want to use some dichlor for awhile which will add chlorine and CYA at the same time? Once you get the CYA to 50, you'll want to stop the dichlor however.
Re: I'm still confused...
What exactly is shock level? I used up all my bleach last night so I'll need to run out & get more. I'll test again before I add the bleach to see if my chlorine & pH is still too high to add muriatic acid. I think I would like to add CYA separately.
Re: I'm still confused...
Results @ 1:30p: FC=0. Added 7 gals. bleach. Will test again in an hour.
I forgot to mention the pH was 7.6 at last test (1:30p), so I did not add any muriatic acid.
Re: I'm still confused...
Re: I'm still confused...
Results @ 3p: FC=5, CC=2, pH=7.6. Should I add CYA now? How much?
Re: I'm still confused...
No, wait to add the CYA until you get this other problem cleared up. Keep at it per my instructions in post #11 above. In a pool with a CYA level of less than 30, the shock level that you need to be aiming to keep the chlorine at is around 12, though it doesn't have to be exact. In your pool, each gallon of 6% bleach will add about 1.8ppm of chlorine. Use that as a reference to help you figure out how much bleach you need to add each time you test.
Have you bought any CYA yet? Even though your CYA test shows none, it actually means "less than 30." So, we have no way to know if you have 0 ppm or 30 ppm of CYA. So, in order to keep from overshooting, we have to assume you have about 30 for now. So, go ahead and buy about 5lbs. of CYA. 5 lbs. will add a little less than 20ppm of CYA. After it is added --- don't do it yet ---- we'll give it a week and then re-test the CYA and see where you are then. If more is needed, then you can do so at that time. When you buy it (if you haven't already), it may be labeled as stabilizer or conditioner. Check the label ingredients. You want to see cyanuric or isocyanuric acid and not a lot of other stuff. You may be able to find it at Walmart or you may end up having to get it at a pool store. The way to add it is to pour it into the skimmer while the pump is running and then run the pump 24/7 for 4 or 5 days to let it dissolve. OR you can put it in an old sock and hang it in front of a return jet. Give the sock a squeeze every now and then to help it dissolve faster. Move the sock away from the return jet when you add other chemicals through the skimmer.
IF you are going to add the CYA separately (which is what I always do) you will NOT want to use any stabilized forms of chlorine or else your CYA will get too high. So, that means no dichlor shock powder or trichlor pucks.
One more thing, please make a signature line with your type of pool, volume, type of filter and size of pump. Also, put that you have a K-2006 kit. This way, when we are replying to posts, your info will be right there in front of us. Makes it easier to answer questions. Click on the signature link in my signature below to make one for yourself. Thanks.
EDIT to add: If you haven't already done so, please read the Best Guess Chlorine Chart in my signature below. It shows the correlation between CYA levels and needed chlorine levels.
Re: I'm still confused...
Here are my numbers for the past few days: 6/15 @ 11:30p: FC=9 CC=1 pH=7.8, added 1.4 gal. bleach. 6/16 @ 7a: FC=8.5 CC=1 pH=7.6, FC dropped to 0 by noon & ranged from 0-3.5 throughout the day, added a total of 14.5 gal bleach, 76 oz. borax (pH drifted down to 7.2) & 7 lbs. cal-hypo 48%. 6/16 @ 11:30p: FC=10 CC=1 pH=7.8, added 1 more lb. cal-hypo. 6/17 @ 6a: FC=11 CC=1 pH=8. FC was down to .5 by 10:30a. Added a total of 17 lbs. cal-hypo throughout the day. 6/17 @ 10:30p: FC=11 CC=.5 pH=7.6, added 2 lbs. cal-hypo. 6/18 @ 7:30a: FC=11.5 CC.5 pH=7.6; @ 1:30p FC was down to 0, added 8 lbs. cal-hypo. Water is sparkling clear! Is it time to add cyanuric acid yet? I think I'm starting to figure this out with your help! Thank you!!!
Re: I'm still confused...
I think you can go ahead and start adding CYA since it is such a pain to have to keep adding chlorine so often but still keep a close eye on your overnight chlorine loss and your CC readings. Also, until that CYA levels starts to register, you will continue to lose chlorine fast and thus will need frequent additions. Once you have a CYA reading of 40-50 and still have no overnight chlorine loss and no greater than a 0.5ppm CC reading, then you should be able to go to testing and adding chlorine in the evenings only.
How are you planning to introduce the CYA to the pool?
Re: I'm still confused...
Pool store sold me Instant Conditioner: *monosodium cyanurate monohydrate 35%, percentage of constituents ineffective as spray adjuvants 65%. *equivalent to 30% cyanuric acid. Directions say to pour in skimmer. They only sold me 1 gal. Now I see that I will need 3-5 gals. depending on what the actual CYA is now, right?
Re: I'm still confused...
I am not familiar with the instant conditioner as I have always used the granular. I know it is quite a bit more expensive than granular. Maybe Waterbear is familiar with it and can advise you on its use. If the price is ridiculous and you need a large amount, I think I'd consider taking it back and just buying granular. I'll ask Waterbear to have a look at your post.