Pool liner feels like sandpaper

For the past couple of days I am only losing chlorine during the day. Does that mean I am winning the battle on the algae? How do I keep the chlorine during the day if the stabilizer is low. I ordered the test kit you recommend, so hopefully it will come quickly! As I said before I am trying to read so I don't have to keep asking all these silly questions. Today the water looks more of a cloudy blue.
Also, last night you said there were people on the forum that would be able to help with the white crust that has formed on my liner. How do I go about getting their help? I tried peeling some off to put in the vinegar, but it just doesn't come off in pieces. Do I worry about this after the water has cleared?

If you are not losing chlorine overnight, then that is definitely a good sign. Glad you ordered a good test kit and hope you will get it soon. Once you get the kit and can test the CYA, we can advise you whether or not to add some more.

I did alert Ben to have a look at your thread but he was super busy and hasn't had time to be around here today. So, try and be patient and hopefully he will be able to give you some suggestions soon!

Thank you! I have been addicted to this sight for the last 48 hours, but have learned alot! Last night I could finally see the bottom of the pool. I still have the white scale, but I am elated that I can see the bottom. Is Ben someone that would be able to help me work through the white scale issue. Interestingly enough the scale is on the panels, but not on the resin columns.
Also I am wondering, how do I use the search engine? It keeps telling me I don't have access. I am just trying to find out what I need to use instead of the Frog mineral reservoir/chlorinator. I was under the impression that the Frog was what kept some chlorine in the pool between weekly shock treatments. I hate to keep bothering people with silly questions, and was hoping I could just search for the answers.

No silly questions. We are glad to help.

Yes, Ben is the one who will best be able to you with your scale problem. He has worked night and day around this forum for the past couple of months and really needed a couple days off to rest and do some other things. He knows a lot about pools and loves to help people, but he is also a husband and a father and needs some time with his family. His brain was starting to get fried from no breaks from this forum, so we are glad that he took a couple of days to recoup. But, he should be back around in the next day I think.

As far as searching, use the Google search in my signature below instead of the forum software's search feature as it is much better. Until your registration is finished (which will hopefully be tomorrow), you'll have to log out to see the search results.

Hope this helps! Thank you for your patience!

I'll offer a more extended reply later, but for now.

1. Do NOT try to scrape the scale off: you can damage the liner.
2. Do get a K2006; you are going to need to the full test capability to manage the liner clean up.
3. Do get your chlorine up and kill the algae; that has to be done first.
4. Please complete the PF Pool Chart, to allow us easy access to your pool info:

Pool Chart Entry Form
Pool Chart Results

5. Finally, DO get your pH DOWN. You want it just barely above the LOWEST point on whatever tester you have.

Ok, got my new K2006 test kit:
FC 2.6
CC .4
PH 8.0
CYA 0
TA 250
The pool is no longer green, blue and pretty clear (not sparkling). I am going to do the overnight loss test, and then not really sure where to go from there. I think I need to get my PH down, and the TA up...maybe. Thank you again! You are all great! Going to do some more reading to see if I can attempt to answer some of my own questions. Starting to feel a little empowered and not overwhelmed!

I meant TA down.

You can move your pH down with Muriatic Acid. See the link in Watermom's sig above for handling Muriatic Acid. This will also lower TA.
Ben recommended that you bring you pH to the lowest on your tester. This is to help with the scaling.
The process for lowering tA is to add Muriatic acid, this lowers pH and TA, then areate the pool, this will raise pH without raising TA. Repeat this process when the pH gets up to 7.6 (maybe 7.4 in your case) until you have your TA at the level you want.

Ok, I have been trying to do as much reading as I can and move forward, but still have a few questions:

Readings;
FC 5
CC .2
Ph 7.4
TA 210ish (I have already added nearly 1 gallon of muriatic acid in the last 24 hours)
CYA 0
I got some of the powdered CYA and added to the skimmer today, 1lb as of right now. From what I understand I need to get the CYA up, currently I am flying through the liquid chlorine. Losing alot during the day. What is the quickest way to increase the CYA? Also, my ph jumps up pretty easily, which I think is due to the alkilinity. Once I add the muriatic acid, how long do I have to wait to add chlorine?

Use these forms to record your test results -- I did your last two.

Pool History Entry Form
Pool History Results

Quote:

---

What is the quickest way to increase the CYA?

---

Using dichlor powder, to chlorinate. Buy the PoolBrand 24# pack of 1# bags at Sams if you can; otherwise, buy a few bags of goop (diluted dichlor) locally, and order this from Amazon:

Kem-Tek Dichlor 22 lbs

On your pool, a pound of undiluted dichlor will add about 2.5 ppm free chlorine, and 2 ppm of stabilizer. Of course, the diluted dichlor sold by Walmart, Kmart, Costco, and mostly, by Lowes, HomeDepot, etc. will add less, depending on how much it's been diluted.

Quote:

---

Also, my ph jumps up pretty easily, which I think is due to the alkalinity.

---

As your TA drops, your pH will rise. Just keep adding acid. This is what you WANT to happen. To remove the scale, we'll want to get your TA as low as possible. When it gets below 80 ppm, you'll begin stripping the scale.

Quote:

---

Once I add the muriatic acid, how long do I have to wait to add chlorine?

---

As long as you don't pour bleach in the same spot as the acid, you don't have to wait. I'd let it mix for 15 minutes before hopping in, however. AND your pump should be running when you're adding.