Is a 33' round unstable?

Dis-regard post #9, I was trying to quote the whole thing not just the first line, maybe it's a limitation on here? Anyway, I'll copy/paste instead so here goes....

Installation - does it include sand and block? How about electrical?
Sand-yes, block-not sure, what is block for?

Liner - Up to you, I think the beaded / J-Hook look nicer - safer, I don't know - sorry.
I like beaded, but overlap seems much less likely to ever come off.

Filter - 1.5 HP may be alot for a 21" sand filter - I too like sand. The advice I've seen here is larger filter, smaller pump. Too much pump can push crud right through a filter that's too small. The slower the water moves through the filter the cleaner it will be.
So, should I request a 1 HP pump instead of a 1.5? Is a 21" filter enough, or should I request a bigger filter?

You will need: a ladder ( do you need code - compliant self closing, latching? )
Yes, latching.

Test Kit - Do yourself a big favor and buy the Taylor K2006 test kit (find links here on pool forum so forum gets a little cash to stay afloat).
Thanks, appreciate the recommendation.

Chemicals - you don't need most of this list and it may cause you trouble with water quality. Read all about BBB on this forum and on PoolSoultions for, what we all agree is, a great way to maintain your pool.
So, should I just tell them to keep all of those chemicals and buy my own?

Cartridge Sanitizer - I don't know about prevail, but these "chlorine free" - "reduced chlorine" systems are unneccessary and could cause problems - refer to the BBB method - it works, you'll be happy, really. -
I definitely will, but is this the same thing as a self chlorinator? Even though it's not listed, I remember the woman at the pool store showing me a self chlorinator that is part of the package. If these are one in the same, then what's the alternative? Those floaty pod chlorine things? Sorry I'm a total newbie. Trying to learn everything, but I'm on information overload right now. I haven't looked into the BBB method yet as I haven't gotten the pool yet, but I definitely will be looking into that method.

Blocks go under each upright so they are not sitting directly on sand.

Properly installed liners shouldn't come off, beaded of overlap.

Is the pump an above ground up-rated or in-ground full-rated? If the former, 1 hp is probably OK. If the latter, 1hp and 250# sand filter should be right, or a 3/4 hp pump with your filter.

Self-latching gates and ladders are pretty much code in most places.

yup, the K-2006 is the one

Self chlorinators are not the same as reduced chlorine systems by any means.

Carl

So is a self chlorinator a good thing to have?

You don't need a self-chlorinator. They use tablets that are a stabilized form of chlorine. If they are used too long, too much stabilizer (CYA) builds up in the pool and if you don't run higher than normal chlorine levels as a result, then you may have algae problems. (Take a look at the Best Guess chlorine chart in my signature below.) It is no big deal to just add a little chlorine each day.

On the other hand, if you travel, you can use the chlorinator while you are away to add some chlorine to the pool.

I don't have one and don't ever plan on having one. But, some people do use them.

You can use a floater if you need to use tablets. That's what I do. No plumbing and they run $10 or less.

Carl

From what little I could find on the Internet regarding prevail sanitizer: I was wrong to assume it was a mineral type - chlorine free - reduced chlorine system (I hate being worng). It is , apparently, a system that delivers some (unknown) type of solid form chlorine in an "easy to use" - "recycleable" plastic cartridge. I couldn't determine what type of solid form chlorine comes in the carts - but - all (almost all) solid form chlorine comes with some built-in usage limit. For di-chlor and tri-chlor, it's CYA and rising CYA requires rising FC levels for effective sanitization and algea supression. Calcium hypochlorite use is limited by rising calcium hardness levels that can cause scaling or cloudiness.

My general skepticism (and a casual understanding of the costs of packaging) leads me to surmize that whatever is in the carts costs more than the same chemical in a bucket. I would also guess that prevail is not widley distributed and that it's dealers enjoy a significant mark-up and a captive market.

Please - learn about the BBB method so you can determine for your self what you need and what you don't. You will certainly need some of what they're incluing in the package - you'll certainly need stabilizer (aka conditioner, Cyanuric Acid) but what the (_ _ Double Hockey sticks) is activator?