PH going up again!

Ok. Just back from the pool store with latest results. Since I used the liquid CYA the first time I was able to get a reading today. FC-0.7 ppm, TC- 1.0 ppm, CC-0.3, PH-7.4, Alk-176 ppm, CYA-15ppm, Phos-100ppm, Salt 3800. So looks like I am going in the right direction. I still have 1 gallon of Muratic Acid if I need it and I bought 2lb of powder CYA the liquid cost to much to continue. The store is telling me my CC is above acceptable levels and has a bunch of ways to correct. So what I was hoping someone could tell me where to go from here. All your help is great. The pool is still clear though.

I don't trust the pool store's test results much, but I trust their advice even less. A CC of .5 is not uncommon, especially when you have had a bather load. It just means the chlorine in the water is fighting something. Generally we don't even suggest that you shock the pool unless you have a CC of 1 or more. If your water is clear, there's no sign of algae, and you're not losing any chlorine when testing at night and again in the morning, then your water is fine and you don't need to shock the pool. You do, however, need to get your chlorine up. Even with a SWCG, you should still maintain your chlorine at least 5% of your CYA. I realize with a CYA of 15 that means 0.75, but I don't believe the CYA result either--most testers can't discern a level less than 30 ppm. I would go ahead and add some CYA--with your SWCG you want to target 100 ppm, according to Waterbear. Use the granular, put it in a sock in front of a return, or directly into the skimmer SLOWLY so you don't clog the pipes, and then give it 4-5 days to dissolve before testing for it again.

You're headed in the right direction--you just need to quit listening to the pool store!

Janet

You really, really need to get a good test kit so you can do your own testing. It will make keeping your pool SO much easier, by allowing you to make minor corrections as they are needed, and not waiting until there's a big problem to fix.

Thanks Janet. I am not listening to the pool store just getting my test there. I have only ever added what people here tell me too. I am in Canada and a Taylor kit cost alot here. So as I am new to pools I get the water test done at pool store. What a bout the Muratic should I add? I do loose chlorine during the day that is why I have started to get CYA in there as I was told by my installer the SWCG would look after everything! Which it has I have never had anything but clear water but I have the SWCG running at a hight level to do so and I don"t want to kill it.

Your pH is fine for right now, but you'll need the acid to lower your TA..here's the method that we recommend: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=191

Once you get the TA down, the CYA up, and the pH rise slows down, your pool should be a lot more maintenance free!!

Janet

The thing I find weird is that my PH went down with my addition of Muractic yesterday but my Alk went up by 9ppm. Is this because of not enough airation? I only have one jet to use for this. If I add more acid will my PH not drop even more? Don't want my pool to be a chemical sess pool!!!

I don't think your alk went up with the addition of muriatic acid. Yes, if you add more acid, the pH will go down further. What is your pH and TA now?

On Friday my PH was 7.9 and Alk was 167 ppm then I added 1/2 gallon of Muratic and 1/2 Gallon of liquid CYA got another test Saturday and the PH is 7.4 and Alk was 176.

My guess would be faulty testing....but you could verify that by testing same sample from two different stores.....

Janet

That is likely. I have put in the CYA in a sock so I am waiting for it to dissolve. I think I will add 1/2 gallon of Muratic tommorow and then I wait a few days and get another test. All I am realy trying to acomplish is to lower the runtime and percentage on my SWCG so it will last a few years. Everyones help on this site has been awesome. Thanks to all. After next test I will post results and proceed with the suggestions I receive here.

It is definitely testing error (or more likely, the normal variance from the precision of the test.) You numbers look like their are either from a strip reader or colorimeter. If they are from a strip readier they are just not to be trusted. If they are from a colorimeter such as the LmMotte Waterlink system they are in spec because, if my memory serves me correctly, the LaMotte UDV TA test has a precision of +10 ppm / - 20 ppm for a variance of 30 ppm. (The Taylor titration test, which does not use any fancy meters is actually ore precise with a precision of +/- 10 ppm!)