TF-100 first test results, requesting feedback

I finally splurged on a nice test kit the TF-100xl, here are my results, i asking some feedback since im having a hard time clearing the water up
pool stats
21,000g I/G vinyl liner, sand filter
bbb method, bleach for shocking/boosting chlorine, and i run trichoro 3 inch tabs in skimmer to maintain level
Current water-cloudy, can see shallow end bottom, but cannot see deep end, open approx
1 month now


FC-1.5
CC- 1
TC-1
PH 6.8- added 1 box borax last nite.
TA-100
CYA -under 20, i filled the viewing tube to the top and could still see the black dot at the bottom.
ch-did not check,since it thought it mostly pertained to concrete pools.


Q1-How do these numbers look, and is there any recommend action to perform, ive shocked multiple times over the last few weeks with improvements in water, it was green

Q2-My ph seems to like to stay low, i will correct it and seems like within a few days i recheck and its back to 6.8. Any ideas why or advice, We have not had too much rain and my alk seems to be on the money.
Could it be the trichloro pucks or pine needles blowing into the pool.

Q3- whats common practice for using algaecide. I added 24 oz of polyquat, and 3 gallons of 10% bleach, and the next morn( 1 wk ago) the pool looked alot better. Not sure which was the contributing factor. Is algeacide recommended as a weekly maintence item or used as necessary.
thanks

FC + CC = TC, so either there is a testing error or something was listed incorrectly when you typed your post. Might want to run those tests again. If you do indeed have a CC reading, then you do need to shock your pool.

Is this a new pool? If not, have you used any cal-hypo in previous years? If so, it would probably be a good idea to run the calcium hardness test. (You are right that vinyl pools do not need calcium but use of cal-hypo over time can run the CH reading up and that can contribute to cloudy water problems.)

Your pH at 6.8 is CRITICAL. Test kits won't show lower than 6.8 so a 6.8 reading might actually be much lower. Need to get it above 7.0 ASAP. After you add Borax, don't have to wait days to add more. Wait 2-3 hours to let it circulate, retest and redose as needed. In a pool this big and pH that low, I think you can add an entire box until the pH starts to move and then add smaller additions. By the way, trichlor is very acidic and will lower pH. So, if you use trichlor often, that may be the reason your pH wants to stay low. ASAP or low pH can damage your pool.

Regarding algaecide, some people use it only at closing; others use it routinely as part of their maintenance. It is OK to use, but make sure you only use 60% polyquat. It is a much better as a preventative than it is helping after you have an algae bloom going.

Take a look at the chart at the following link to help you figure out needed chlorine levels for shocking and for maintenance.

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=365

Repost with retested chlorine numbers and calcium hardness reading. Hope this helps.

The trichlor pucks are most likely the culprit for your low pH--they will continue to drive pH down (and CYA up) as long as you use them.

Janet

re-check results, saturday 11 am
fc-3.0
cc-.5
tc 3.5
ph-7.2
calcium hardness-140
cya-under 20-filled cylinder to top, could still see black dot
pool cloudy/vacuumed saturday morn , cant see deep end bottom
some questions
Ive been reading the posts and using some of the suggestions, to clear my pool up. Im probally suffering from P-O-T-W, which is probally not helping .
POOL OWNERS TIGHT WALLET
I run my filter 10 to 12 hrs each day, and have been running 2 to 3 trichlor tabs in the skimmer. I have multiple times addes several bleach gallons and run it all night, with better results but not a night and day difference.

When is checking for phospates an issue or recommended. Last year the pool store checked the water and said the phospates were over 2000. I addes phosfree and it cleared up a week later but it was not 100pct clear than either.Still had issues for another few weeks after till it cleared

Ive read to clear alage, to keep the water at shock, level and scrub sides often, so i will attempt this. Are there any other recommended actions, since my chemical levels seem to be ok.

How can you be sure or determine if you have a filtration issue causing the problems. Ive seem changes using heavy doses of sodiumhypochlorite, but i thought by now id be in the clear.
Last year before being more into the forum i changed my sand over to zeobrite, with high hopes. I have a 1 hp superpump with good runnng pressure and flow, at 14 psi.
Thanks for the responses.

How often are you testing and adding bleach? Does your chlorine ever drop down to 0 before more bleach is added?

Try shocking the pool up to 12 in the evening after the sun is off the pool. Then, get up early and test it before there is sun on the pool. See how many ppm of chlorine you are losing overnight. If you are losing more than 1ppm from sundown to sunup, then you are fighting something in the water.

Also, we recommend running the pump 24/7 while you are trying to clear a pool.

You may also want to try skimmer socks. These are liners which go into the skimmer basket. NOT the pump pot—the skimmer basket. Sold at pool stores, possibly the X-Marts, for around $6.50 for a set of five. They're re-usable.

You put one inside the skimmer basket and fold it over the edges all around, sort of like a coffee filter. The do trap a great lot of debris, including dead algae, pollens, bugs and all manner of other interesting stuff. Check it a couple times each day, rinse it out, replace it.

In the absence of skimmer socks people have used ladies' knee-highs. I cannot attest to their efficacy, haven't used them.

A pre-filter setup such as this can make a big difference when fighting algae.