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I know you they can look at readings on the Aquarite controls to determine if the cell needs to be replaced, does anyone know what to look for?
I'm on my 4th season and it doesn't appear to be producing chlorine, as all of my reading are fine, just no chlorine.
I'll give them a call, but thought I would check to see if anyone here knows.
thanks!
Mizzou, to see if the unit is producing, first remove the cell and visually inspect it. Then fill a bucket large enough to hold the unit with water and submerge the unit - only have the bucket full enough to cover the cell, don't soak the cord. Now 'trick the unit into thinking that the pump is running by holding the flow switch closed. You should see tiny hydrogen bubbles being produced in the bucket - as a second measure test the bucket water for chlorine - after ~ a minute of the cell running it should be off the charts on an OTO test:D
There is a chance that the SWCG is 'slaved' to the pump motor, if so you'll have to figure out a way to get the SWCG unit on without the pump dumping water out of the return line (which now has no cell on it to get the water back into the pool) - I can help, but would need some specifics on your set-up.
Thanks Waste.
Yes, it is a slave to the main pump...and I'm not much of an electrician. I'll get an electrician buddy over to see if he can help me out. All of my readings look ok on diagnostics. I did clean it with the Muratic Acid last night, so I'll see if the chlorine holds up.
Thanks again, great idea!
How long are SWG cells supposed to last? I'm thinking of installing a chlorine generator system, but the replacement cost of the cell is a concern. The cell costs almost as much as a whole system (I realize it is the most important part). If it will need replaced in under six years, I don't think the economics make sense (although the convenience has to be factored in, of course). I guess a related question is how widely available will replacement cells be for any given brand and model of SWG in several years?
Cell life depends on several factors but I was once told that 8,000-10,000 hours is possible. If you have water high in calcium that requires frequent cleaning with muriatic acid or maintain salt level at minimum your cell life will be shortened. I'm in Indiana and on my 6th season with the Aquarite, same cell, no problems whatsoever. Pool is 20k, ig vinyl and full sun. I run the pump 8 hours a day and Aquarite output is 20%. Based on 100 minute cycles, runs for 20 minutes each, or 100 minutes a day. Do the math and this thing could last several more years with 5 month/yr use - I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
Mizzouguy - I have had high phosphates on one occasion and caused nascent algae that ate all the chlorine I was producing and couldn't get a chlorine reading. I opted to treat the phosphates rather than shock (my schedule wouldn't allow me to hang around for days to keep the chorine level 12-15).
Hope this helps, Tony
IF, your pool has little or no Cl, you can test the cell for production by just unscrewing the downstream union on the cell, enough to get it to leak, and take a sample of water for your Cl test.
The pump, and the unit are on of course.
Then compare it to your pool reading. This is the best place to check. I'm no chemist, but from what i understand, the Cl can be oxidized, out gassed, whatever, in the return line on the way to the pool. So testing right at the return for production may not be as accurate.
I love the 'quick and dirty' methods that pool dudes share!
Thanks PoolClown!
Pool dude? I'm a Verified New User, thank you very much!Quote:
Originally Posted by waste
Just ask, i got a ton of tricks, even some that are inappropriate.
Now if i can just keep from replying to posts 2 years old...
Kinda like "pool dude". Waste comes up with good ones. This is right up there with "alka seltzer treatment" for Proteam system support!:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Pool Clown