Help!, I think I need help, maybe?

Hello,

I was out cleaning the pool today on a beautiful day in Huntington Beach, CA and decided to check more than the Chlorine and pH and the results are confusing. All but my Calcium readings were pretty normal and I don't know why or even how to fix the problem. Is it a problem?

First, I have a rather small pool and spa combination (Gunite, completed in June of 2006). It is probably in the area of 12,000 gallons. The finish is pebble sheen and I use a SWCG in combination with a DelOzone system for sanitation. I have my SWCG set at 25%, and run the pool 4 hours per day. I will increase the SWCG percentage and hours run progressively to summer time.

Results for the pool today:

Chlorine 5 (I need to lower my SWCG percentage)
CC 0
Free Chlorine 5

pH - High, right at 8.2 (added acid)

Alk - 100

Calcium - OFF THE CHARTS!!!! The chart with my kit suggests that 200 - 400ppm is ideal for a pool, but I would guess that I am over 600.

CYA - 80ppm

I have concrete coping, natural stone tile and extensive use of boquet canyon stone and there appears to be no problems with calcium build up or any type of problem with my pool. Other than cleaning and adding basis on a weekly to bi-weekly basis, there has been absolutely no problems with my pool, rock work or tile. Do I have a problem, if none is obviously presenting itself to me. I just want to stay ahead of the curve and try to prevent a problem before it happens.

Please advise and thank you in advance for your input!

Regards,

Mike

You have two troublesome numbers:

1) your pH--8.2 is 'WAY too high and weakens your chlorine's ability to kill stuff. Add muriatic acid until it's in the mid 7's--7.3 to 7.8.

2) your calcium is very high and you risk cloudy water and scaling. The acid should prevent the clouding, but it's risky at 600.

Now, your lower pH will lower your Total Alkalinity--probably to about 80-90--that's fine...even if it's lower that's OK as long as your pH doesn't bounce around.

As for your FC --it's the minimum for a CYA/Stabilizer score of 80--but with a SWG, I'm sure it's OK--the consistency of the machine means at CYA of 80 you could probably be OK at an FC of 4--but not while pH is so high.

I think if you fix pH you'll probably be OK --unless your water goes cloudy. It won't be perfect but it will be safe as long as the other numbers maintain.

The only way to fix your calcium is by dilution. That means drain half your water and refill and calcium should drop to a perfect 300. But doing that changes ALL your other numbers--your CYA changes to 40, but an FC of 5 and a pH in the 7.3-7.8 range will be just fine. And you'll need more salt.

Good luck!

Thanks for the information and the advice.

I am always fighting my pH, having to add acid on a regular basis, but I have not been consistent over the last few weeks. Would this contribute to my Calcium skyrocketing? Either way, it is time for me to get back in my routine to prevent this happening in the future.

Since it has been a couple of years since the original fill, it may be time to drain half of my water and fill again.

Again, thank you for the information and your input.

Regards,

Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mkfmedic

Thanks for the information and the advice.

I am always fighting my pH, having to add acid on a regular basis, but I have not been consistent over the last few weeks. Would this contribute to my Calcium skyrocketing? Either way, it is time for me to get back in my routine to prevent this happening in the future.

Since it has been a couple of years since the original fill, it may be time to drain half of my water and fill again.

Again, thank you for the information and your input.

Regards,

Mike

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The calcium could WELL be increasing your pH--but why has your calcium risen so high? Is it coming from the walls? If so, you need someone to look at it.

I don't know enough about concrete pools to know why leaching would be occuring, except when the water's cal level is low. Is your salt level too high? Salt is notorious for corroding everything, including concrete.

Experts: Is that possible?

Normally, if you can keep your water under control and balanced consistently, you don't ever need to change it.

Wow, I'm in the exact same situation with TA around 200 and CH at 600. I've let it get away from me but I had to deal with it because my Aquarite Turbocell was corroded.

This has resulted in me adding way too much salt. I'm going to start by draining/refilling a % of the pool water, then get my other numbers in order.

I'm anxious to see what results you get Mike.

Mike