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Hi to all,
Does anyone here prefer dry acid to the liquid acid? How are you all adding the acid to your pool?
I like the dry better because it doesn't let off the fumes - but have noticed that you have to dissolve and add slowly with the filter on high or it etches the bottom if it gets to sit - hope that isn't a bad thing - the bottom is just rough in one area and I am not doing that anymore.
Have a new IG plaster pool with salt system.
THANKS!
I use muriatic acid, and pour it slowly into the return stream, so that it dispurses quickly. It only takes once to learn to stay upwind of the stuff while pouring, and I tend to not pour it at all if it's a very windy day. I also wear gloves while messing with it, and tend to hold my breath until it's actually in the water.
Janet
Is it just me or has anyone else found the dry acid to be WAY less effective than the liquid Muriatic?
I have only used the dry stuff 2 or 3 times (in a pinch), but it seemed like I needed a LOT more of it to do the same job, and once, it seemed to have little or no effect on my water at all! Maybe I got ahold of some old stuff?
Anyway, I agree; I choose Muriatic and am just *extra cautious* when using it.
We use the liquid acid on our vinyl IG pool. We add about a quart at a time. I don't pour it directly from the bottle into the pool though..I'm afraid I'll drip and burn my liner. We 1/2 fill a bucket of water, pour the acid into the bucket, then pour it into the pool at the return flow to mix it well. Then I rinse out the bucket with pool water from the end behind the return flow. Probably not necessary, but I'm paranoid :D
Mary
There used to be, somewhere on the forum, some ramblings/musings/thoughts about dry acid and plaster pools. The thoughts IIRC, were that dry acid (which forms sulfuric acid when mixed with water) might not be the best thing for plaster/concrete chemically.
Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) chemically is a little 'nicer' to plaster/concrete. And it's usually less expensive too. But it is a bit more dangerous to use.
And ALWAYS remember to add acid to the water, never-never-never add water to the acid.
I'll usually add muriatic acid to a dedicated, clean 5 gallon plastic bucket filled with water. And then add the partialy diluted acid into the pool deep end. Rinse the bucket in the pool water in the low end, and put away till next time. Watch out for the acid fumes, wear chemical resistant gloves, be careful.
I use Muratic exclusively. I pour mine into a 2 qt pitcher that I have marked with 16 oz, 24 oz and 32 oz on it. I fill to whatever level I think I need, then I walk that around the pool, dribbling it in.
I don't dilute, I use full strength.
And yes, I keep track of the wind direction!
Michael
I too prefer muratic. I dilute as listed above only because I'm afraid I might spill some on my concrete while measuring and figure the diluted solution won't etch it as quickly if spilled. I thought about using the dry, but then I'd have to mix it up and that seems like in invitation for my clumsiness to take over. It takes me about 15 seconds to open the bottle, pour into my dedicated plastic measuring cup, then into my 3/4 filled 5 gallon bucket and replace the lid. All while holding my breath....
You mentioned a salt system. With a SWG? If so, I would only use muriatic acid as it is part of the SWG process.Quote:
Originally Posted by west1745
Hope this helps.
Pat