SWG Install Project

I will be installing a Hayward/Goldline Aqua Logic PS4 and Turbo Cell over the next while and I will post my experience here in case others can find some info useful.
I am generally handy with electrical / plumbing but have never done any pool plumbing.

I am debating on the location / orientation of the cell. The cell is 12" long and the flow switch (4") needs 12" of striaght pipe before it (it can be installed right after the cell). Also I have 1 1/2 " pipe but the cell and flow switch are 2" so I will need adapters which will inrease the total length.

Here is my setup:
http://suprfile.com/get.php?id=7ly6n95
http://suprfile.com/get.php?id=7ly9u01
http://suprfile.com/get.php?id=7lyayc7

There is a T on the output of the heater splits to the step jets and the pool jets. Easiest would have been to put it on the pool jets side - the existing pipe is 11" - but even though I have flexible pipe at the end I don't think I have enough room to put the cell + pipe adapters + flow switch. I could get some elbows and go up with the cell then accross then down (like the AutoPilot).

Comments? / Suggestions?

P.S. For those who have not done any pool plumbing before - here is a good guide:
http://www.poolandspa.com/page819.htm#PVC%20Plumbing

Daren

Hey Daren,

Depending on the overall diameter of the cell union, how about cutting off the 1.5" pipe from the left side of the Jandy valve, and using that side? These valves are designed for 1.5" pipe if glued to the I.D. of the valve, but allow 2" if glued to the O.D. of the valve. If there is enough space to glue the union directly onto the valve and the valve handle can still turn, you should be fine. This will save a little space.
I notice that their instructions allow the flow switch after the cell or before. My recommendation is to mount the flow switch before the cell and it must be on the same line (not as their diagram #4 shows - flow switch before the valve, and cell after).
The reason is that the higher concentration of chlorine "MAY" affect the material of the flow switch. If it is stainless steel, it "MAY" corrode. If it is a plastic, it "MAY" erode or deteriorate. But that's just my opinion. I'm sure it must be ok with them because their instructions show it as acceptable.


Thanks for selecting a salt system!

Thanks Poolsean - I didn't know the outside of the Jandy fit 2" - this save some space. I stopped a few pool stores and found a sleve that fits inside the 2" flow sensor and converts it to 1 1/2". I cut off the 1 1/2" pipe right at the Jandy and on the other side left a small peice of the 1 1/2" pipe (that will fit into the sleve which fits into the flow sensor). I decided to keep the flow sensor downstream because that it what is recomended and I would need 12" of straight pipe before it otherwise - I will see how it lasts.
I dry fitted everything and it fits - there is a little bit of presure from the flex (because there is less slack now) but i think it will be fine.

Got my water tested:
TDS 600
CYA 40
TC 5 (a little high because I turned up the clorinator to use the pucks inside)
FC 5
PH 7.2
TA 120
CH 165
(20,000 Gal IG Vinyl)

Picked up 10 x 20 kg of salt from Home Depot - added 160kg for now.
If the weather is good tomorrow I will glue up the plumbing and work on the electrical.

I installed mine 2 weeks ago very straight forward I ended up with the Lflow switch after the cell because of the 12" of straight pipe issue

Finished the installation last weekend. Everything went fairly smooth - it won't win any beauty contests but everything is working good (and no leaks).
I took out my existing sub panel and was able to fit the Aqua Logic in using the existing wiring. Put in 160kg of salt which took about 20 min of pushing it around the deepend to get it dissolved. Started the cell and had 2600 (Add Salt warning) - added another 40kg and I was up to 3400.

Took about 5 hrs to do the electrical / plumbing and hook up the air/water temperature sensors / pool heater control and remote wired control panel inside the house.

The Aqua Logic is a nice unit - full 100Amp sub panel (I moved my circuit breakers over from my old panel) with weather resistant locking cover / knock out for GFI plug etc.
I setup a wired remote in the house so I can see the pool/air temp and salt level and adjust the Cell power / turn on/off the pool light and pump etc.

Some pics:
http://suprfile.com/get.php?id=7r6y3sa
http://suprfile.com/get.php?id=7r7044o
http://suprfile.com/get.php?id=7r728uq


Notes for the DIY'ers
1. When you prime and glue the joints typically the pipe fits deeper into the fitting than when you dry fit. I had some connections that would not go all the way in when I dry fitted but "bottomed out" to the end of fitting once I primed and glued.
2. Buy a new hack saw blade - costs $1.50 and makes cutting the pipe a breeze.
3. Get some Weld-On P70 primer and 747 pool/spa PVC glue - joints done and ready for water in 30 min.
4. Think twice - glue once - remember to put any threaded couplings etc on first before gluing joints. (same goes for cutting)

Daren

Daren, sorry I missed this before the job was done:( The job looks great! You could have used a 2" 'street 90' off of the flow switch tee and then reduced that to the 1.5" flex and saved 2+" on the length. The street 90 has a regular socket on one side but the other is a 'slip' end and will go into any other 2" socket (like the out port of the flow sensor fitting).
I'm only offering this for the same reason you started this post, to let the next person who does it know that these fittings exist and that they may make a 'tight' set up a little less tight:cool: