Hayward 4800 D.E. Filter and Superpump Installation...

I presently have a Hayward EC-65 DE filter with a 3/4 HP pump. The setup works but I just got a used Hayward 4800 D.E. Filter and Superpump at a price I couldn't pass up.

I'm not sure how to mount/place this new pump/filter.

The e/c 65 and the pump was its own base (the dark brown one hayward makes specifically for this setup) which was set on top of my concrete pad.

The 4800 can just sit on the pad. Easy enough... But what about the pump? DO I need to drill holes on the concrete and bolt it down or can it just sit on the top of the concrete. Seems like it'd be heavy enough that it wouldn't require additional fastening. Especially after it's plumbed in.

If I do need to bolt it down...What fasteners do I need?

There's nothing wrong with putting the pump and filter directly on the pad. You may find, though, that you need to put a 'patio block' (~ 8" * 1' * 1") to get the pump's intake to match up with the existing plumbing. The only reason to bolt a pump down is to reduce the noise caused by vibration when the pad isn't level - but a wooden shim will also fix this.

Putting unions on both the intake and effluent side of the pump will allow you to bring it in for the winter - and put one on the return line so you can bring in the filter and multiport.

If you need a little more on what I've said - simply ask and I'll provide more detail:) - Have a great summer with your pool and the new pump and filter!

I'll see if I can get a block of rubber or solid foam that's the right size.

BTW... Aside from the Jandy type valves... Any reason why I should purchase PVC pipe and pipe fittings from the Pool Store (vs Lowes, Home Depot or any HW store/plumbing supply)?

This is a much more serious matter:( , you need to get schedual 40 pvc fittings for pools ---- a lot of the pvc fittings sold at 'hardware' stores are to be used only for non-pressure lines - they can be used for pools, but aren't the right stuff for pool use.) If you can get the sch 40 fittings cheeper elsewhere, do it!

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Originally Posted by waste

This is a much more serious matter:( , you need to get schedual 40 pvc fittings for pools ---- a lot of the pvc fittings sold at 'hardware' stores are to be used only for non-pressure lines - they can be used for pools, but aren't the right stuff for pool use.) If you can get the sch 40 fittings cheeper elsewhere, do it!

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Right... Home Depot, Lowes and my local hardware store sells schedule 40 AND schedule 80 fittings and valves at 1/2~2/3 the price for the pool store. Anything special about the pool store fittings?

I feel a little dumb ... I just bought 2 Jandy glue fitting ball valves off of fleabay for ~$30 which I thought was a bargain but when I was at Home Depot this afternoon I saw that schedule 80 ball valves with THREADED fittings were going for ~$12.

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Originally Posted by waste

There's nothing wrong with putting the pump and filter directly on the pad. You may find, though, that you need to put a 'patio block' (~ 8" * 1' * 1") to get the pump's intake to match up with the existing plumbing. The only reason to bolt a pump down is to reduce the noise caused by vibration when the pad isn't level - but a wooden shim will also fix this.

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Hmmm... Is there anything wrong with plumbing down from the existing plumbing to the pump's intake which would create an upside down trap of sorts?

leejp

I, personally, wouldn’t want to introduce another 'elbow' or offset into the mix (a.k.a Head) when you can 'bring the wheelbarrow to the mountain' so to speak. I think it’s easier to put the pump on a platform to meet the existing height of the plumbing then to create an odd network of 45's, elbows, slip unions, etc to bring the plumbing to the pump.

As far as the differences in plumbing supplies at Big Boxes vs the pool store, just make sure you get the DEEPEST unions you can at the Big box. IMHO you'll want any slip union to be as deep as possible (at least 1.5" deep on BOTH sides of the union) to put up with the high pressure of pool water flow. Thread unions should be pretty deep too. Don’t forget the Thread Seal for the pump’s threaded unions. Slather it liberally on the male side of any threaded unions. Just an FYI make sure it’s JUST thread seal and not a sealant/bonding compound for the connections touching the pump. Alternately, you could use Teflon tape for this, but I've found that ALWAYS leaks after the first season.

I am not an expert on this, sort of a Shade Tree Plumber, (four of my uncles are plumbers so I learn a lot from them) I would love to hear from others who are more experienced than I.