I have tried to attach and insert some pictures of our pool. Hope it works. I will post more later, but this is enough to show the pool and the stains on the concrete.
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I have tried to attach and insert some pictures of our pool. Hope it works. I will post more later, but this is enough to show the pool and the stains on the concrete.
Interesting issue. I would be tempted (assuming builder is financially stable.....and I think you said he's been building for twenty years?) to leave the deck alone and let it weather.
You could readdress the issue next Spring or even next fall if you can arrive at some mutally agreeable financial condition.
I have a feeling that staining may weather out to an acceptable appearance and that might be preferable to an overcoating that may or may not hold up over time. All of those coatings look nice the first year but many have longevity problems. (usually due to application errors)
Dave,
Is there some specific information available on the longevity of the coatings? I am concerned about it, that is for sure. Where do you get your information?
I don't believe you can get a definitive answer on lengevity. Most of the issues I have read about on this forum and seen firsthand involve delamination. (The coating seperates from the concrete) As I indicated, I would attribute that to the thouroughness or lack thereof of the prep work prior to application......but there are other variables at work, also....Sun, water, freezing, etc.
The point in my post is that, if you and the pool builder can make a deal you're both comfortable with, there would be no loss to you in waiting a while to see what the concrete looks like next Spring or Fall. If the appearance becomes acceptable to you, you know you have a surface that is permanent rather than an overcoat that may give you other issues down the road.
Web, Dave makes a good point. As long as the PB is aware of the problem, and you have in writing that it's his fault, a little time and weathering may make the deck 'acceptable', but if it doesn't - you have something in writing that makes any 'fix' his responsibility.
BTW, you're water level is too low, that skimmer is sucking air :D
How high does the water need to be on the skimmer? :confused:
Web, the water should be at least 1/2 way up the skimmer for correct operation, Hayward faceplates have an arrow at the 1/2 point. I usually prefer to have the water at the 2nd screw down (looking at the skimmer 12 screws secure it 4 across the top, 4 more on the bottom and 4 on each side [ :eek: - that's 16 not 12! - the 4 corner screws are pulling 'double duty' being both side and top/ bottom :D ]) This allows you some evaporation/ backwash leeway, but isn't so high that a good rain will stop the skimmer from skimming (you need at least 1/2" clearance for the skimmer to skim, otherwise you just have a big square suction port on the wall)
Hope this answers your question, if it's a little vague, I or one of the others will further explain what I've tried to say.
If the weather is still favorable, take 1 day each week to just enjoy your new pool and without thinking about the various 'issues' you've had with the installation :)
Heres a link to my completed pool pictures. We will probably have the concrete coating applied to the deck next year. We built the fence and the Pool Shack. We plan to build cafe/saloon doors from treated pickets for it. I know its rustic, but remember, we are in Arkansas! The Pool Shack not only houses the equipment, but it has a changing area/restroom. FYI the walls are double lined with pickets for privacy. We had a professional lay the centipede sod and install the irrigation system, but we did all the landscaping design and work.
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x87/webfeet_photos/