Winterizing the aqualuminator

Upon initial installation of the aquaL........I have never had to winterize (1st year) I realize you must remove electrical housing w/ screwdriver and store along with the bulb housing and wiring. But this aqualuminator plug....first can I get a similar size plug from a hardware store (lowes, home depot etc) and if so or if not, do you plug it from the inside of the pool (my guess) or from the outside in?
I plan to leave the water level as is, cover the skimmer w/ a winter plate and gasket.......I'm just a bit narly about how to seal off the aquaL.
Thanks guys.:confused:

Hi Tracey, we don't winterize our pools around these parts, guess that's because we never really have a winter. I have never had to deal with that question before. But I do have an idea.

I have a dozen or so of those lights in my parts stash. I could send you a bulb, just a few bucks shipping, and you could just change bulbs for the winter. Most of mine are burnt out and are sitting here doing nothing.

Let me know, Dennis

Tracey,
The red plug that came with it will NOT hold the water back, it's way too flimsy and can't seal properly, it's a rodent plug which is really not needed since they cannot scale the wall of the pool.
If you have regular winter temps like us here in canada, I would reccomend dropping the water level to below the aqualum. If this is something you really do not want to do, then you will have to source a rubber stopper (like you used in science cl***) to plug the hole successfully (from the pool side).
Putting in a burnt out lightbulb will not help since it allows water past it and down the angled input line and just stops water from coming out the back where the electrical connector clips on, which can't have water in it because expansion will crack that all to pieces.

Dennis,
I may have to take you up on getting one of those burnt out Aqualum bulbs off you, I've been waiting patiently for mine to die so i could "experiment" with some custom LED lighting that I plan to insert into the original fixture, however, mine just won't die - unlike the norm!

Thanks guys
I have a plan to purchase an aquaL plug for $5 on friday. The pool shop owner will show me how to winterize the aquaL. I understand you must push the bulb ***emble housing from the outside in and use the plug (yes, from the inside) to plug up the opening. He will show me how in 2 days. I ***ume you should store the electrical part inside somewhere for the winter. It can get cold and freeze here in south. ILLinois, not like canada though. I bought a skimmer plate cover and do NOT intend to drop the water level.

What is your suggestion dennis for the burnt out bulb????

Hi, I was just thinking that if you were worried about the freezing temps damaging the bulb, just replace it for the winter with another one. It's true it only caps one opening but the hose connection can be plugged any number of ways. But I have never winterized a pool so I know not what I say, or something like that. :)

Matt, In my profile is a link to my web site, on my site is contact form. I would be happy to send you a couple of bulbs. Just leave me an address.

Later, Dennis

Dennis
Are these non return style of bulb? I am playing around with the ideal of LED conversion and need the stem that hooks through the wall. I am working on a control that would allow the LED scrynonized to music through a parallel port form my laptop that I have hooked to some speakers near the pool. I run a wireless network and hit the server for MP3 play list so using a Winamp plug-in I can build an 8 channel solid state relay to control the LEDs in a housing attached to the stem from a burnt out Aqua bulb.
Before any says it....I know I am a geek.:D
Steve

Steve - you're planning the same thing I am, and yes, aqualuminators are the stem tupe that act as a return.
I have so many projects piling up it's getting ridiculous and i feel overworked just thinking about them!

Matt
I can relate to having way too many irons in the fire. I will be glad to get some of the have to projects off my back so I can start the fun ones. I am supposed to get hitched this week end and we are having the reception at the house so that has kept me busy the last few weeks.
After all that is over with I would like to compare notes on your ideal for the LED conversion. I am toying with the ideal of a Lexan block. I am thinking I will drill holes for the LED and glue them in and then attach the Lexan block to the stem of the bulb running 8 power leads and a ground out the back. Ports 1 to 8 are signal ports on the parallel port while ports 18-21 are ground if I remember correctly. I have found some software that will control these ports to bands of sound from audio files. I will give each channel a relay that will control a specific color LED. If you are interested I will send you the links to the software and share schematics.
Steve

Hey guys, don't mean to ignore anyone. I do have a few bulbs on hand if any of you would like to stake claim on them. I have the housings also. They are all the return type although I have seen the non return housing in the exact same set up, meaning same bulb and all. With the return type housing we would just glue a PVC adapter and then an 1 1/2" cap over the opening to make it a none return type fitting.

Later, Dennis

Medvampire - wow, you're really going all out on that design, mine was going to be WAY simpler!
This is my plan since it HAS to work on it's own (without controolling PC and software) because my pool is over 100 feet from the closest part of my house (furthest part of Garage) - 200 feet to the closest computer.....
Plan is:
Pop off lens somehow, gut the inside of the stem, wire in this (12V DC):
http://www.ledshoponline.com/ledlowvoltagebulbsacdc.htm
(Scroll down to Rainbow MR16 RGB Color changing.)
Re-glue/seal lens back on

Voila, I'm done!

BTW - pin 2-9 are data out, 19-22 are gnd - but that's all relative to how you're looking at it!