Need help for pump install Tomorrow PIC!

I got my new whisperflo pump in today and started taking out the old hayward. I know lots of stuff, but apparently one of them isn't PVC. Never had to work with it.
So, I started unscrewing the top fitting on my pump (pressure side) and it came out about 3/4 of the way before it backed into the fitting above it. The suction side input won't budge at all. The thread will slightly move but the pipe dope on the back won't.
Am I just suppose to hacksaw these connections off? I know I'm going to have to slightly change things due to the new pump, but I'm not exactly sure how to go about it, or get started. Figure I'll ask the experts instead first instead of posting a Don't do this thread.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...n/DSCF0020.jpg

going by your pic, i'd replace the pipe section completely on the top outlet there with a union on either end (, i mean the joints like your pic on the right with the gnurled screw on and off fittings..then you'll be able to undo the pipe as you need to without further cutting ever again. cut the pipe on the inlet and put a screw on and off fitting on the inlet as well..what i can't tell from the pic on the inlet end is how much pipe do you have to work with..if there isn't pipe further back at the bottom of the picture to play with then i would take off the top piece, then it looks to me like 2 people (one holding pipe,other lifting pump) could actually turn the pump off the joint and then add an adaptor and screw on fitting to your new pump, then size out and fit your top piece. ) i assume you have a pool store you can go to? if you tell them what you need or draw a diagram, they'll help you figure out exactly the parts you need. the place i get mine, if i keep the receipt, they'll take back everything i don't need in a pinch. hope you like the new pump!i love mine:)

it looks to me like whomever installed it never contemplated a need to replace the pump!

Thanx again Tenax! I was already to cut tonight, then figured I would ask first. Don't want to spend twice the time or money.

I should know, but I don't. What is that device that is connected with the two small, black hoses? That reduction in pipe size where the two black hoses connect to the PVC is a serious restriction to your flow. I would eliminate that restriction....you'll see a very significant increase in the efficiency of your system.

Assuming that's an inline chlorinator, you could eliminate it if you don't use it and really clean up your pump pad...two simple unions for future pump removal is all you'd need.

Additionally, you could eliminate all of that patchwork and that repair union by cutting off the return line down in the ground below that 90 that's flush to the ground and extend that pipe up over the top of the suction line going into the pump.

Working with PVC is a lot like tinker toys.....you can make about anything you want. dry fit the whole assembly before you glue. Many folks use simple rubber couplings with hose clamps to allow for future pump removal.....I like the pvc unions.....they're a little more trouble and money but very professional looking.

Instead of unions I use sections of straight auto radiator hose and clamps. Stuff it reinforced to handle the pressure and temperature is not an issue. An added benefit is it allows the joints to move a little thus reducing stress on the pipes and joints and cuts noise by isolating the pump noise somewhat. You can make the sections as long or short as you want. If you make them real short the hose tends to stick to the pipe after time and can be a little difficult to remove. To 'crack' the hose loose I use a big pair of channel lock pliers for a better grip to twist the hose. Once loose it will slide on the pipe for removal. The pic shows joints for the valve but I have them on the pump ins and outs too. Hose can be kind of pricey but the cheapest stuff you can find will work fine. Compared to the underhood environment this application is nothing and the cheapest stuff holds up extremely well. If I recall, you can expect to pay about $20 for a 3' section.
Al

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/attachm...5&d=1144256085

Thanks for all the help everybody. Poconos, I was already half way through by the time I read your message, but that's an excellent Idea and would have went that way if I'd read it earlier. So the pump side is drying now, just have to make a couple fixes on the return and I'll be done.
How long does it take for that pvc cement to dry?
Thanks everybody.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...DSCF0020-1.jpg

Keep an eye on the 3 new 90s on the pump side. Those are DWV couplings, they do not handle pressure to well. Look at the difference of the new 90s and the old 90s on discharge from filter.

Crank it and check for leaks, it should be good to go by now.