New Pool Owner/Chemistry Worry?

Hello All,
I have decided to take the plunge and take care of my pool. I have an approximatley 10000 gallon pool with another 1200 gallons in a elevated spa. We have a Jandy 1400 SWG with a DelOzone system (My Wifes Idea) and other than the Jandy not working at first, we have had little or no problems. After my pool guy didn't show, or return calls, I called and told him not to bother and that he was fired. After doing a little research and getting the pool into shape by adding bleach and CYA, I realized that I could do this myself.

Here is my question, having measured my chemicals this morning, I am wondering if my PH and ALK are too high. I used a Taylor Test kit with reagents for the following results. I took my samples from approximately 12 inches deep in the deep end of the pool.

FC 4 - 5 (My SWG was set to 55%, I have since lowered to 45%)
TC 4 - 5
CC - 0

PH 7.8+
ALK 120ppm

CYA (Testing using a strip identifies between O.K. and low)

The Taylor Kit suggests on their chart that if I wish to lower my ph (1 -2 drop(s) of the reagent to attain the ideal color), I can add around 12 oz of dry acid. To lower my ALK approximately 20ppm, it suggest approximately 2lbs of dry acid.
Do I even need to worry about lowering these numbers?

I have heard that with water movement, I have 8' of sheer descents and a spa spillway, that the ALK will lower on its own.

Finally, from what I understand, having a low CYA is better than a high CYA, so is this something to worry about? Is there a more accurate test for measuring the CYA?

Anyway, thank your for your input for a complete novice. I truly do appreciate any thoughts.

Thanks,

Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mkfmedic

Hello All,
I have decided to take the plunge and take care of my pool. I have an approximatley 10000 gallon pool with another 1200 gallons in a elevated spa. We have a Jandy 1400 SWG with a DelOzone system (My Wifes Idea) and other than the Jandy not working at first, we have had little or no problems. After my pool guy didn't show, or return calls, I called and told him not to bother and that he was fired. After doing a little research and getting the pool into shape by adding bleach and CYA, I realized that I could do this myself.

Here is my question, having measured my chemicals this morning, I am wondering if my PH and ALK are too high. I used a Taylor Test kit with reagents for the following results. I took my samples from approximately 12 inches deep in the deep end of the pool.

FC 4 - 5 (My SWG was set to 55%, I have since lowered to 45%)
TC 4 - 5
CC - 0

PH 7.8+
ALK 120ppm

CYA (Testing using a strip identifies between O.K. and low)

The Taylor Kit suggests on their chart that if I wish to lower my ph (1 -2 drop(s) of the reagent to attain the ideal color), I can add around 12 oz of dry acid. To lower my ALK approximately 20ppm, it suggest approximately 2lbs of dry acid.
Do I even need to worry about lowering these numbers?
Your SWG wil operate more effeciently in the pH range of 7.2-7.6. I would not let the pH go above 7.6.
I have heard that with water movement, I have 8' of sheer descents and a spa spillway, that the ALK will lower on its own.
Only if your pH is low....below 7.2 to have any real effect on ALK.
Finally, from what I understand, having a low CYA is better than a high CYA, so is this something to worry about? Is there a more accurate test for measuring the CYA?
Low CYA is not an advantage with a SWG. There have been several threads (and several ongoing ones right now) on CYA levels with SWGs. IMHO, the recommeded range of 60-80 ppm will give you best results.
As far as a more accurate way of testing CYA, the $15 Aquachem test kit from walmart will test more accurately then strips...as will the Taylor K-2006 and K-2005 kits. You seem to have the basic Taylor kit that only tests FC, TC, Acid/Base demand (a useless test....it makes assumptions about the ALK and if not in normal range the demand test results are not accurate), and possibly ALK. You really need a more complete kit. The Taylor K-2006 with the FAS-DPD chlorine test is good...A better 'bang for your buck is the PoolSolutions ps234s available on the sister website to this forum.
www.poolsolutions.com
This kit includes a salt test as well as FAS-DPD chlorine test, pH, TA, CH, and CYA.

Anyway, thank your for your input for a complete novice. I truly do appreciate any thoughts.

Thanks,

Mike

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Hope this helps.

Waterbear,

Thank you very much for the reply. It is quite informative and I will look into getting myself a "more" complete kit. In the meantime, I will add acid to facilitate lowering my PH.

It has been recommended to be conservative when adding chemicals, which makes sense to me, and add 1/2 to 3/4 of what is suggested by test kits? I have some dry acid that I will today and see what the results are tomorrow morning.

Thanks again for your input, I really appreciate your thoughts.

Mike

Do yourself a favor, save some money...once you use up the dry acid switch to muriatic acid...It's cheaper and more effective...plus it will not add sufates to your water. Muriatic acid (HCl) will combine with the sodium hydroxide (NaOH) produced by your SWG and form ....SALT and water!

:eek: Whew is right! Boy do I have a lot to learn. I added the last of my dry acid yesterday in the late afternoon. Here are my updated numbers. The samples were taken from approximately the same location at 9:30am.

TC- 5
FC - 5
CC - 0

PH - 7.2
ALK - 100ppm

Salt - 3.2

CYA, again using a strip says "ideal."

So it looks like the PH and ALK are in an "estimated" ideal location. Today, the question is regarding my Chlorine. Since I have the Jandy 1400, combined with a small pool, is it reasonable to keep turning down the production rate at the unit? I now have it at 35. Although our weather has been hot, our pool only get used about half the days of the week, like today:) and tomorrow:) !!

Now, about the Del Ozone generator. I have read the many thoughts on this site and am unsure if what benefit, if any we would receive, but my wife was sold. But, since I got the new backyard, it was a small price to pay to add the Ozone system. We were told that combining the Jandy and the Ozone would allow us to run our chlorine at lower levels, 3ish is what we were told. Any thoughts on this?

I will switch to the liquid muriatic acid, but it scares the heck out of me because my 2 1/2 year old can get into anything. I'll just have to be super aware and keep it up, up, up out of his reach. Is there a universal suggestion for raising PH?

Anyway, I appreciate all the advice, I know with the kind folks at this site I will be able to successfully manage my pool all year round!

Thanks again and have a great weekend and thanks for your time!

Mike

Missing technical posts moved to this thread, in the China Shop.

Ben