Originally Posted by darenjones
The Aquachem kit (the "deluxe" kit)
With the Wally kit (i so affectionately call it) I recieved 'close' readings, close enough I guess to keep my pool clear, but never really crystal clear all the time. for example, the OTO test, as you should read in here, only really gives you an indication that yes, you indeed have some, alot, or no cl in your water. There color bar isn't easy to read. Same goes for the ph. Unless it was 8.0, or 6.8, it is really hard to tell.
With any phenol red test you can tell by color and really don't need the comparator once you learn the colors
purple...ph is to high 8.0 or higher
pinkish red... ph is high but ok 7.6-7.8
orange...pH is perfect 7.4-7.5
yellow orange...pH is a bit low to ok 7.0-7..2
yellow...pH is too low below 7.0
The best example, is the alk, which when I did a side by side test, I get 180 on the aquachem kit, and 130 on Bens kit, that tells me I have been running a way lower alk for a long time, which explains the amount of acid I have been going through...
ok kit for getting you by for now (and possibly using more chemicals, and possibly draining off the pool later) but, if you are serious, get a decent kit, like Bens.
Waterbear,
Thank you for explaining that, it actually makes sense, especially since I have tested this morning. PH is slowly stabalizing, I have it about 7.4 or so (little less "red" than yesterday) and Alk is still 130-140 (getting 2 different readings, not sure if it is me, or the water, I believe it is me)
2 curious things, 1), the tests in the ps234, the alk, when it turns ever so slightly pink, we should go one more drop, to solid pink, right ? same for the dpd, go till no pink at all ?
With any titration test like this keep adding drops until one addtional drop produces no more color change then don't count the last drop. for example with the TA test, you add 10 drops and the sample turns red. You add an 11th drop and it turns redder. You add a 12th drop and there is no change in color. Your endpoint is 11 drops.
2) the Borax, I see in the bleach calc, it says, not for ph, but for algecide ?
Correct. It is actually considered to be an algaestat. Won't kill it but helps prevent it. As to whether it actually works or not the jury is still out. You need to get your tetraborate level into the 30-50 ppm range. The calculator might acutally be incorrect and might produce a lower ppm of tetraborates...based on dosage charts for Proteam Supreme. Acid does need to be added to correct the pH in the amount of about 3/4 gallons per 10 lbs of borax. This is an approximation so testing of pH is required to get it in line after the additions. For raising pH just add about a cup at a time and then test the water. Keep records of your addtitions so you can learn how much is required for your pool.
I have never had an issue where I have had to raise ph (not in NE fl on municiple water anyway) but using it as an algecide ?
