Old IG pool ? want to add SWG

I live in south Texas, IG 17 X 38 Rec. ~26K gal. plaster(painted) pool, 1985 built. New to me in 2004
The pool is in full sun all day, high 80's - low 90's summer water temp.
Ive been using the 6% bleach since I statred reading this forum last summer.
1.35 gal bottle raises level 3ppm, I use about 4-5 bottles per 7 days in the summer. Since the switch from the 3" tablets my water has been clear and enjoyable. Buying/moving the bleach around is difficult for me I have mobility problems.

What concerns do I have to worry about if I install a SWG?
Pool Equip:
1 hp Hayward high efficiency superpump - 8hrs a day split (4hr morning & 4hr night)
Triton TR60 Sand filter
Dolphin Robotic cleaner - 1 -6hr cycle a day
1 under water light (looks like it has a metal bezel)
Swim-Lift chair to lower/raise me in/ out of the water Stainless Steel

Any recommendations on brand/ model?
I don't know if the high temperatures will cause problems?? Can these units keep up with the higher water temp problems?

Thanks for any suggestions
PaulK

Paul, let me first welcome you to the forum, best thing you could have done is comming here and finding out what 'proper' pool maintenance is!! :) There's no problem with installing a SWG (SWCG) on an existing pool, unless there's not enough room for the unit on the filtration system. Take a good read on the SWG section, you can use the 'search' function to get more specific info, there have always been posts about 'which is best' - read them and discover for yourself which unit will do what you need. I hope this answers your question, at least partly. Good luck, however you handle this!!

Since I most certainly would be biased in my response, I'm only going to answer the ones that I cannot be biased on...

1.35 gallons of 6% bleach x 4-5 bottles a week averages to about a gallon a day. This is about a 1/2 gallon a day of 12% pool store bleach, the equivalent of a Salt Chlorine Generator that can produce 1/2 lb/day of chlorine...That is if you're running your pump 24 hrs/day.
So more realistically, an 8 hr/day pump run means you'll need a system that can produce about 1 1/2 lbs/day. There are some fudge factors in there so I would say that you really only need a system that can produce about 1lb/day output. That qualifies almost every system out there.
Whew...how's that for unbiased?

What concerns do I have to worry about if I install a SWG?
Pool Equip:
1 hp Hayward high efficiency superpump - 8hrs a day split (4hr morning & 4hr night)
***Make sure the system you select has a memory on the reverse polarity cycle. This is the self cleaning feature of SWG. Without a memory it's possible for the cell to wear unevenly and fail on one side and not the other. Meaning, the coating that allows the electrolytic reaction will be worn out in one direction before the other direction and you will show a warning light on an intermittent basis.

Triton TR60 Sand filter
***No problems other than making sure you maintain your salt level. DE and Sand filters loose salt when you backwash. This shouldn't be too much salt on a normal backwashing cycle, but too frequent backwashing will accelerate the salt loss (therefore the amount of salt needed to maintain the proper levels).

Dolphin Robotic cleaner - 1 -6hr cycle a day
***No problems here.

1 under water light (looks like it has a metal bezel)
***This is a majority of pool lights so again, no problem.

Swim-Lift chair to lower/raise me in/ out of the water Stainless Steel
***hmmm, although stainless steel is good, you should get into the habit of rinsing the Swim-lift with your hose due to the pool water. As the water evaporates, the salt concentration can be corrosive. Rinsing your Swim-life will ensure this does not become a problem.
Funny thing is that you'll see the same effect with your pool on bleach. It tends to leave some residue because bleach leaves behind sodium chloride (salt). If you're not seeing any residue on your swim-lift, then there shouldn't be a problem with a salt pool either.

I don't know if the high temperatures will cause problems?? Can these units keep up with the higher water temp problems?
***Make sure you keep up with your chlorine residual when water temperatures get warm. Chlorine demand (usage) increases with water temperature increases. There are salt systems in an even hotter part of the US than Texas...Arizona! We have systems on pools where the water gets into the high 90's, just from the heat of the sun!


Hope this helps and good luck in your search.

Thank you, I am glad I found this forum, last summer I was at witts end trying to keep my water clear/brite by adding every known chemical recommended by the L_____e's Pool store, nothing worked but sure did spend a lot of money.

It was just high CYA level from the 3" tricholr pucks. Used Ben's (I think) best estimate on chlorine residual at the higher CYA levels and presto the water has been in control ever since. This forum's diversity is the best.

PoolSean,

Thanks for your unbiased answers, my research led me to the Pool Pilot Digital & SC-48 cell then I read the posting here. Please feel free to be biased if you are allowed.

The pool pilot digital looks like the way to go. The Goldline product seems to fall a little short, but that is also reflected in the cost.
Temp compensation, if it works, I think is a very important feature. What's your biased opinon? I am already leaning your way.

Space: I have a ~36" section of output pipe that spans a space to add a heater. Currently an inline hayward chlorinator is installed in this run. The plumbing is all 1 1/2" PVC. Can't change that; any issues?

Run Time: I can run the pump longer just don't seem to have the need, 8hrs on the sand filter, then in between 6hrs with the dolphin, the water is very brite. By very rough calculation the 8hrs is about 1 complete water cycle.

Stainless Steel lift: I do rinse the chair off but part of it is submerged all the time. Doesn't seem to have any adverse effects as of yet 18 months in service. This is the commercial unit found in many pools , YMCA etc..

I don't want to install a system just to say in late August I wish someone made a unit that could compensate chlorine levels based on temperature or I should have bought the one that does. I don't have high bather load demands just sun and heat demands.

I welcome all the advice the forum can offer!

Thanks
PaulK

The pool pilot digital looks like the way to go. The Goldline product seems to fall a little short, but that is also reflected in the cost.
Temp compensation, if it works, I think is a very important feature. What's your biased opinon? I am already leaning your way.
***Temp compensation is designed to aleviate you from having to adjust the output of the system, based upon water temperature changes. It also allows us to operate under cold water conditions and prevent premature cell wear from operating when the water temperatures drop.

Space: I have a ~36" section of output pipe that spans a space to add a heater. Currently an inline hayward chlorinator is installed in this run. The plumbing is all 1 1/2" PVC. Can't change that; any issues?
***That should be enough space to plumb both the heater and salt system. The fact that you've got 1.5" plumbing will not be a problem either.