Hayward h150fdn heat exchanger copper (cupro-nickel) tube pipe busted

Opening my pool and noticed my pool heater leaking water from inside. I took panels off and learned that two of the copper tubes that come out of the exchanger and go back in had splits in them. Dont have the cash for a new heat exchanger I decided to clean, sand, clean and apply a bunch of JB weld to the two pipes. Has anyone done this? Any success?

I've never tried it, but my guess is that your chance of success with JB Weld is slightly better than 0%. But not much better.

The problem is that the JB Weld is not conductive enough to be in the flame path without overheating. What would work -- probably -- is this stuff: http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/e...y-brite-8.aspx

It's available from Amazon, and the list the flux you'd need, too: Sta Brite #8 . It's a fantastic product, that has many uses. When I was a plumber, over 30 years ago, I always kept a roll on my truck, and was able to repair many un-repairables with it.

But . . . using it successfully requires moderately advanced soldering techniques, involving being able to work the 'plastic' range, between liquid and solid. Most welders can pick this up quickly. Honestly, it's not too hard, but it's different. I looked for a YouTube, but it wasn't a widely known product when I used it, and still apparently is not. However, if you can find someone locally who doesn't give you a blank look when you ask, "Do you know how to bead up a low temp, high strength silver solder with a wide plastic range?" . . . you've struck gold.

Alternatively, if you buy the pound roll, you can practice some on some old copper tubing. The material softens about 432 degrees, but doesn't become liquid till over 500. In the 'plastic' range in between, you can build up a 'lump' of solder over the splits. It's 10,000 psi material AND highly conductive, so it will do the job.

Possibly, you might be able to get an HVAC to use standard silver soldering, but that gets so hot you are likely to burn up some of the heat exchanger fins.

There is one potential gotcha: the Hayward exchangers are not copper, but cupro-nickel. So, before you try this, call Harris and ask if that solder works on cupro-nickel.

Good luck!

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