Chlorine Lock

Does chlorine lock exist? I've read several threads which seem to say yes, and no. My 17,500 gal IGP was reading 20 FC and TC, 7.2 PH, and CYA through the roof at 150. With no chlorine granules or tabs in over 2 weeks, these numbers sadly stay consistent. I've been draining as much as I can (no drain, pump to waste via skimmer) and refill, numbers are getting slightly lower on CYA after my 3rd attempt but not fast enough. I'm on a well out in the country so I've striked a good balance of drain/refill that my well seems to handle just fine. I've raised my CA to 400 and attempting to try ez-pool to bind to the calcium while I continue to drain/refill twice a week. I did neutralize the chlorine levels (via an oxidizer) to get them lower which works. Any other advice/method I should explore using here in this situation?

It's a term with no specific meaning; it's usually used as an excuse for a problem a dealer can't solve, or else a reason to sell a bunch of chemicals.

Read the cl-cya page -- you DO have to determine your correct chlorine level, from your CYA level => http://pool9.net/cl-cya/

I don't understand what you mean by any of these phrases:
" I've raised my CA to 400" CA?
"attempting to try ez-pool to bind to the calcium"
"neutralize the chlorine levels (via an oxidizer)"

I have no idea what you are trying to accomplish.

jayredlegs

Thanks. I was trying to relay what my water test showed and feedback from the store:
- Raise calcium to above 400
- Use EZ-Pool which will bind to the calcium thus (my interpretation) allowing chlorine to work
- With the high levels of free chlorine and total chlorine (both at 20), they recommended an oxidizer to lower than amount
The pool is crystal clear and not a problem with algae whatsoever yet, failed to mention it's a vinyl liner. I'm reading pros and cons of EZ-POOL. I don't intend to stay on it, but was hoping a short term which will allow me to:
1) try to make my current chlorine affective
and 2) plan to dilute water twice/week to lesson the CYA numbers
I'm hesitant to run with chlorine levels that high (CYA > 100) on the chart.

Vinyl pools do NOT need calcium! The fact that this pool store thinks you should raise yours to above 400 is a big red flag that you should stay out of that store! They don't seem to have a clue! Well, maybe that's not quite accurate. They don't have a clue about about pool chemistry but probably are experts at knowing how to empty people's wallets! :$:

I was afraid of that reply...! and :-( So am I better off adding bleach to keep FC levels per the best-guess-chart, and stopping tabs and granule stabilized shocking to help with the CYA which I know will take time?

I think at this point we have to assume that you don't . . . and therefore that we don't . . . really know much of anything about the condition of your water.

All that we've really established is that (a) your pool store is utterly untrustworthy, and (b) that you're worried about your pool.

But, we really don't have ANY valid data about the condition of your pool water, or about what kind of pool and equipment you have.

Do you have a K2006? If not, what?

I do have a K2006. Pool is 16x32, 17,500 gallons, vinyl liner. Appearance of water is crystal clear.

My CYA tests are not working, I've tried to dilute with 1/2 pool and 1/2 tap to get a reading, but may have to go 1/3s. My numbers as of Monday were:
FC 4
pH 7
TA 80
CYA - Guessing 200, was 165 per store test, and I cannot get a reading, and I don't trust them.

Since then I've drained 2' out of the pool, replenished. At this point I really need to try to get an accurate CYA reading so I know how much to FC to add (guessing per the best guess chart I need FC 8-15). I'm afraid CYA will still be high though. I can't effectively drain the pool any lower as I'm on a well. I will try another CYA reading soon.

I bought this house/pool last year and continued what the owner was using, stabilized tabs and trichlor which I'm learning is not my friend given it's been used and likely accumulating over the 10 years this pool has been here.

Any other advice welcomed, I'm new to the forum and apologies for not giving the pool water condition/other pertinent information in advance.

1. Run your chlorine level up to 15 ppm. From what you say, you know your CYA > 100 ppm, so 10 ppm is appropriate

2. Add a box of borax, to bring your pH up a bit.

3. Get a gallon of *distilled* (MUST be distilled) at Walmart. Once your chlorine is 10 ppm or higher, mix 1/4 cup pool water with 1/4 cup distilled, then test pH. No adjustment factor needed.

4. Mix 1/4 cup pool water with 3/4 cup distilled. Be as accurate as possible in proportions. Mix, and test CYA. Multiply your result x4.

Here is the latest

FC 16
Ph 7.6
TA 80
CH 450
CYA 400