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My pump is 1.5 hp, and is very noisy. I have tightened down all bolts and it is mounted to a conc slab. I can put pressure (my foot) on the pump itself and it quiets considerably. Almost no noise at all.
Anyone have any suggestions as I do not want this to become a problem for the neighbors and I am quite sick of hearing it myself.
Thanks
It's bolted to the concrete, right?
Sounds like you may be setting up a resonant vibration in the slab itself. If that's what is occurring, you can probably improve the situation by removing the bolts, placing rubber washers both above and below the pump, and rebolting through the washers, so direct bolt to pump contact is eliminated. You may be able to find appropriate washers in the plumbing section of Lowes, etc.
This would be even better: Silicone Sheet, 70A Durometer, Smooth, Red, 0.25" thick, 12"x12" square @ Amazon
You can probably 'test' with pieces of an old thin floor mat, wedged over/under the pump.
If you want a more definitive diagnosis, have someone record a video with your foot on/off the pump, and post it to YouTube. I'm finding that seeing AND hearing makes it much easier for some of us with more experience to figure out what's going on.
It is bolted to the concrete. Here is the youtube I posted. It is not a good indication of how loud this really is, but you'll get the idea.
http://youtu.be/74BmCW-CClE
When depressing the plastic pump it is quieter vs the electric motor which tells me most of the vibration seems to be coming from that part of the pump.
Thx
That sounds like normal high speed (3600 RPM) pump noise, amplified by direct contact with the slab. Unfortunately, standard 3600 RPM pumps ARE intrinsically noisy.
Unbolt it, and slip a door mat under it. I think you'll find that greatly reduces the noise.
But, if you really want it to be quiet, convert to a two speed pump, and run on low most of the time. Low speed, on most pumps, uses ~1/4 the electricity, but moves ~1/2 as much water . . . and is much, much quieter.
I'll try the door mat suggestion. Converting sounds nasty, is it an involved process?
Actually, I did mean convert in place -- you have to replace the motor, seal, and possibly impeller. Usually, you have to add a heavy duty switch, or timer.
I never know how advanced the DIY skills are, of various posters here. Conversion in place is a moderately advanced job, costing a DIY'r ~$300 - 400, but possibly saving you $100 - 200 per year.