Overwhelmed

Trying to test pool for first time. Very good circulation. Testing as far down as I can reach. Not sure what readings are telling me.

Using K-1000 kit first.
chlorine is at or above 5 ppm
pH is Avg of 7.35

About to work with K-2006 kit.

All this is for 7,000 gallon above ground pool. No problems. just getting going on the right foot after filling pool after new liner and pump installed. Uses Cartridge filter.

Reaching down is not so critical. Avoiding surface water may matter, if the pool is dirty or has oil skim (from lotion, etc). What is critical is avoiding the return stream of water, if you have any sort of chlorinator or SWCG present.

Are there guidelines for what my readings should be, posted somewhere?
Secondly, is there instructions for K-2006 somewhere? Correction, SIMPLIFIED instructions?

No, but I'm working on a rewrite of their manual.

For now, just use the instructions in the lid of the kit, and ignore the book. If you're confused, the Taylor videos here can help:
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list...99CY_BQXE1Jx6s

The instructions on the underside of the the lid are pretty simple to follow. Most of us here use the 10ml sample for chlorine tests (saves on reagents plus accuracy within 0.5ppm is good enough). Also, if your sample turns pink after adding one dipper of the dpd powder, adding a second is unnecessary. Test chlorine and ph daily until you learn your pool's behavior, then you can relax to every other day or so (unless you are dealing with a problem of some kind). Finally, the cya test is a little tricky to read correctly. You want bright, indirect light. So ideally stand in sunlight with your back to the sun (your shadow directly in front of you) and view the dot in the comparator by holding it at your waist. You can also pour the sample back into the bottle and retest a second or third time to verify your results.

Oh, and make sure you check out the Best Guess Chlorine Chart in Ben's signature... This will tell you what your chlorine levels should be depending on your cya readings.

I think I did a write-up simplifying the K-2006 instructions on a similar thread about a month ago....Let me see if I can find it. May be a good starting point.

Found it!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CarlD

I don't know if this will help but it may:
Read the Taylor instructions for HOW to run the tests, and ignore their interpretation of the results.
1) FC and CC:
Fill tube to 10ml mark.
a) FC
Add one scoop of powder. Add another if it doesn't turn deep pink. Swirl to mix.
Add one drop from the brown bottle. Swirl. Each drop represents .5 ppm of Free Chlorine.
Keep adding drops one at a time till the water goes clear. The # of drops / 2 = your FC
b) CC (Combined Chloramine)
Add 5 drops of #3 bottle to same water. If it doesn't go pink, your CC = 0.
If it does, again add drops from brown bottle, one at a time and swirl until water clears.
CC = # drops / 2, again.
If you only add one drop and it goes clear, you don't have .5 ppm of CC, you have AT MOST .5 ppm of CC--and probably have less. Don't worry.
c) TC (Total Chlorine) = FC + CC

2) pH
a)Fill the tube to 44ml and add 5 drops from bottle #4, compare to color chart for pH level
I like to take my time with this, and make sure I have something white behind the tube and the chart.
b)Alternatively: If you have the K1000 OTO/pH kit (In my humble opinion the best simple OTO/pH kit you can get), you fill the pH (red) tube to the line and add 5 drops from bottle #14.
Color match as above.

3) TA-T/A Total Alkalinity.
Fill the tube to 25ml
Add 2 drops from the #7 bottle (chlorine neutralizer) Swirl
Add 5 drops from #8 Bottle (Dye) Swirl.
Add 1 drop at a time from #9 Bottle and swirl.
When water turns red, multiply # drops by 10. That's your T/A level.

4) CH Level Calcium Hardness.
Fill tube to 25 ml
Add 20 drops from bottle #10 Swirl.
Add 5 drops from bottle # 11 (dye) swirl.
Add 1 drop at a time from #12 Bottle and swirl.
When water turns blue, multiply # drops by 10. That's your CH level.

5) CYA-Stabilizer-Cyanuric/Isocyanuric Acid
Fill squeeze bottle half full with water, half full from Bottle #13. The amount of each is less important, just that they are 50/50.
Shake for 30 seconds, minimum.
Hold the tube with the dot at your waist, facing the sun.
Slowly add from the squeeze bottle until the dot disappears.
Read the CYA level on the tube. Remember: Halfway between 40 and 50 is NOT 45--it's a log scale.
IMPORTANT!
Repeat test by first pouring the water from the tube back into the squeeze bottle and then repeat the test.
You can do this as many times as it takes you.
Always do this test the same way so any changes are clear.

6) Acid and Base demand tests--don't bother with them.

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OK, here are my pool readings.....any advice is appreciated

Free Chlorine 6.4 ppm (two readings to confirm)
Combined Chlorine 0.4 ppm (two readings to confirm)
pH 7.4
Calcium Hardness 40ppm

Please advise.

After watching the videos on YouTube, I was later able to follow instructions on lid. It was just at first, like reading hieroglyphics for some reason! The Videos were a GREAT HELP!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wilsol4

OK, here are my pool readings.....any advice is appreciated

Free Chlorine 6.4 ppm (two readings to confirm)
Combined Chlorine 0.4 ppm (two readings to confirm)
pH 7.4
Calcium Hardness 40ppm

Please advise.

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Have you gotten a stabilizer reading? (also called CYA). Your Free Chlorine's effectiveness depends on your stabilizer level.
Your pH is fine--don't try to adjust it.

You really only need to measure your FC and CC using the 10ml mark, not the 25ml one, which wastes your reagents.

Without the CYA, I can only guess what you should do, which would be to shock the pool to get rid of the CC. But, without the CYA level, I'm guessing at how much.

But, for future reference: 1 gallon of 8.25% bleach will increase your FC by 11 3/4 ppm. 1 gallon of 6% bleach will add about 8 1/2 ppm of FC. If you want to add only 4ppm, use a half-gallon of 6%. etc.

I am a newbie. I am testing with the K-2006. What is CYA?