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In trying to winterize this year we find that we have 2 return ports that are leaking between the return port flange and the pool wall.
What the best product to seal this?
I've considered:
putty-like epoxy
polyurethane caulk
silicone
silicone glue
Tips appreciated
I'm hoping to try one of these this weekend, so any tips would be appreciated!
I have used the putty like epoxy on leaking spa fittings, even leaking or with some moisture present, so since the pool walls will still contain some moisture, the epoxy putty might be my first choice, but I'm open to new ideas!
Nitrile rubber would be my first choice -- info here:
http://www.kelleytech.com/olympic/ol...view.asp?ID=29
Epoxy putty may last, but my experience has been that it tends to develop gaps after a few years.
Silicone rubber is a mess; don't go there.
Or, you can choose to fix it right, by chiseling it out, and using something like Waterplug. Do **NOT** use some of the low grade cement patches that Lowes and Home Depot sometimes carry!
Here's my Amazon store page: http://astore.amazon.com/poolbooks?node=43
but you should use the pictures as a guide, and check around at other pool stores -- Amazon is not carrying those products directly so delivery and prices may be better elsewhere.
Not sure how we might use the hydraulic cement.
Looking into the return ports from the pool side, it looks like the pvc may have originally glued into them. If so, I guess the glue has partly failed.
If we broke up the current return port flange, and chiseled it out.....not sure how we'd ever get back to a good glue joint between a new flange and the old pvc.
You'll have to post pictures (or email them to poolforum@gmail.com). Most return inlets that I've seen consist of a pipe stubbed through the gunite, with a female fitting on the end. Then, the return eyeball fitting is screwed into the pipe, after the pool is complete. Any flange would be under the fitting, and retained by it. If you have a different arrangement, appropriate repairs may be different.
The pvc is stubbed through the concrete wall. The return port flanges are slipped over the pvc with a typical glue connection. It would seem that the failure is at this glue connection, as under air pressure when winterizing, with the outlet plugged, air leaks between the flange and the wall.
The return flange port, once installed, does have female threads, but that is just to accept an eyeball, or for plugging in the winter. Those threads, in this case, don't pertain to how it's installed.
So given this kind of setup, any idea as to how one would repair a leak between the pvc and the return flange - internally? Still use the hydrallic cement?
. . . pictures? . . .
the port slips over 1.5" pvc and glues on the back side.
this is a stock google photo. Our pool wall is smooth!
[ copyrighted photo removed - Admin ]
Hi Ben,
I trust you view the pic, before it was deleted. (I did not see any mention of a copyright on google images, but no harm )
From what you saw, how do you suppose one cuts the flange fitting from the 1 1/2" pvc, still ends up with a clean pipe end, and still has enough to glue a new slip on flange onto it?
Have you possibly seen this done before.
Do you suppose in the alternative, it can be epoxied from the inside?
I have epoxies some hard to reach hot tub fittings. :)
tips appreciated!
Again, without seeing pictures from YOUR pool, I can't be sure, but MOST eyeballs screw-in, and most 'flanges' are either part of, or retained by the eyeball.
But . . . I'm not going to tell you to unscrew it, without seeing a good picture of the actual eyeball & 'flange' on YOUR pool.
Also, it's not too likely -- unless you've seen reason to think otherwise -- that the leak is from the pipe into the concrete. More common is a leak from the *pool*, along and around the pipe, through the wall, to the ground.
I re-read your first post, and realize it's not clear, so I'll ask. Is water leaking OUT of your pool, causing water levels to drop, OR is water leaking INTO your pool, bypassing the eyeball?