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How much do I buy of the following:
Unscented bleach
Muriatic Acid (33%)
20 Mule Team Borax
Arm&Hammer
CYA/Stabilizer - is there a brand that is preferred?
Cal-hypo
I dont know how many gallons the inground pool is. I will probably throw out all of the previous owners pool chems so I want to know how much do I need to buy of each. I know it depends on what my levels are and size of the pool, but I just want a rule of thumb. How much do you keep in your garage?
Hi,
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE-- you need a proper test kit, a Taylor K-2006 or K-2006C or something similar with an FAS/DPD chlorine test (not simply DPD). Without it, everything else is a waste of time and money.
Here's MY rule of thumb for bleach:
1st, you have decide what level of FC (free chlorine) you want, in ppm (parts per million--the standard measure)
2nd, you need to know the concentration of the bleach you are using.
3rd, you can use the formula or the bleach calculator to determine how much you need --(1,000,000/pool gallons) * concentration of bleach * gallons of bleach = FC in ppm
4th, or you can use my rule of thumb: 1 gallon of 6% bleach adds 6ppm to 10,000 gallons, or 3ppm to 20,000 gallons or 12ppm to 5,000 gallons. 8.3% adds 8.3ppm to 10,000 gallons, 4.15ppm to 20,000 gallons, or 16.6 ppm to 5,000 gallons. Adjust similarly for different concentrations and pool volumes.
Other chems are sold in fixed units. But they are easy to get.
13000 gallons in Florida during summer, I usually by 4 - 121 oz. containers of 8.25% bleach from Walmart/Target/Sam's Club (same price) every two weeks and dose my pool 32 oz. per day, so 1 container lasts about 4 days. I usually buy 2 gallons of Muriatic acid at Lowes and dose as needed, usually every week or so (8 - 12 oz.). Usually lasts a couple of months. My CYA and CH are where I want them, so I don't buy that just to "have on hand". I do have some cal-hypo, CaCl and tri-chlor left over that is stored. Unopened bleach is stored indoors, only 1 at a time is outside. In another couple months all that will be cut in half or so.
Consoleman,
CarlD is right, but since you are inheriting an established pool and have taken steps to get the Taylor kit, you will need to size up your new pool after your closing. If possible, find out how the previous owner sanitized and tested the pool. You need to know the size in gallons, pump make and model/hp, etc. Filter size and type (sand, cartridge or DE) and a complete set of results from the Taylor kit. After that you should be able to get detailed advice.
Most of the tests for the Taylor kit are pretty straightforward, but the CYA test is a little tricky. Check out the demo videos on the Taylor website. You can also pour the CYA mixture back into the mixing vial and try again if you're not sure that the dot disappeared. CYA over 100 takes a dilution technique to get a true reading.
You can "decide what level of FC you want" if you're emptying and refilling the pool, but I suspect you will find the pool filled. The level of CYA will then choose the level of FC for you. See the best guess chart, if you haven't already.
No doubt you will be busy moving for a while, but you should not let algae get a start. If the pool has automatic chlorination, its probably OK until you are ready to switch, otherwise have some bleach ready to go.
Since I know NOTHING about Consoleman's pool I don't have much to go on, but nefretameses is right: CYA level determines the ideal FC level.
But frankly, since you seem really, really new to the B-B-B method and to pool ownership I didn't want to go there yet. It's going to take some geometry to get your pool's volume and depending on how odd the shape is, and how much curve there is, the calculation can get complicated. But length x width by depth can give a ball-park. If the depth changes, start by
(1/2xLength x Width x shallow depth) + (1/2xlength x width x deep depth) =VERY rough ball-park of volume in cubic feet. Multiply THAT by 7.5 and you'll have the gallons, very, very roughly.
And that's a place to start from.
Thanks for all the responses. I ordered a K-2006C yesterday using this sites link. Can't i check the pump and filter part numbers after I close? I also looked at the best guess chart for FC chlorine level to better understand what you talked about. I will start a new thread once I get all the info.
You should post the basic info about your pool in your "signature". See CarlD and my posts for examples. You don't need it immediately but the info may influence the answer you get to various questions down the road. You can edit your signature as you get more info.
What you will need right away is size in gallons and the following Taylor test results: Free Chlorine (FC); pH; Total Alkalinity (TA); Calcium Hardness (CH) and CYA.If you don't have gallons post the shape, length, width, shallow depth and deep depth. If the shape is irregular give widest and narrowest width and length in addition to depths. Give the current method of chlorinating.
If you can get an opportunity to visit with the current owner and get a "tour" of the equipment, how to work it, etc. even before closing, you'll have a leg up on the process. We were able to do this when we bought our house. It may make the urgency of sizing up the pool lower, especially if there is some automatic system. Maybe your realtor can set it up for you. Most homeowners want to know that the new owner will take care of their "baby".
Not sure how far your move is, but I assumed it's still Houston or thereabouts. "South" pools have some differences from "North" pools.
It's really not that hard. I let the automatic system run for almost 2 years when we bought our first pool house. It was not until after I started having trouble that the pool store couldn't figure out that I found this forum, figured out what was going on and changed to BBB.
Good luck with closing.