Measuring CC with Taylor K-2006 test kit

Here are the measurements I have so far:

CYA: 63
pH: 7.2
FC: 4.6
CC: ????

I followed the instructions exactly. The water became clear on drop 4 which would equal .8 ppm. I left the water in the comparator tube as I wrote down my results and put stuff away. The water in the tube turned pink again. So, I added more titrate and swirled, swirled, swirled until it was clear again at an additional 2 drops. Once again, as it sat in the tube for a minute it turned pink. I did this over and over. After 14 drops I gave up because something has to be wrong. It turns clear, I put it down for a minute, then it turns pink again. I cannot find anywhere that tells me if this is normal. Please help!

First of all, use the 10ml sample instead of the 25ml sample to save on your reagents. Each drop will be 0.5 instead of 0.2 but who cares. That is a close enough reading.

1. Fill the tube to the 10ml mark.
2. Add a scoop of DPD powder and swirl to mix. The directions tell you to add two scoops, but if one scoop turns it pink, no need to add the second scoop.
3. Add drops of the R-0871, swirling after each. When the sample turns clear, multiply the number of drops by 0.5 and that is your FC reading.
4. Add 5 drops of R-0003. If the sample does not turn pink, then your CC reading is 0. If it does turn pink, add drops of R-0871 as before, swirling after each drop, until it turns the sample clear. Multiply the number of drops by 0.5 and this is your CC reading.

Wait until you are finished to write down your notes.

Hope this helps. It gets easier after you do it a few times.

Okay, I will try using the 10ml sample instead. It did turn pink with the first scoop, so I will use only one rather than two. As far as waiting to write down my results go, I thought I was done because it turned completely clear. I'll try it again tomorrow. Thanks!

I finally got to test the water again tonight. Here are my results:

FC: 3
CC: .5
pH: 7.2
TA: 70
CYA: 63 (from 6-23-13)

Do you have a regular maintenance chart for these numbers? I know my pH should be a little higher, but I don't know the dosage of Borax.
How often should I add bleach and how much? Should I test every day? All I can find is 8.25%.
Also, I've read in many places on your site to use Dichlor as a stabilizer. I've also read on your site not to use it. I'm so confused. I've read ALL over so I don't remember where everything is. Here it is almost July and my kids still aren't swimming because I apparently don't know what I'm doing.

If the 63 CYA value is from a pool store, it can't really be trusted; if you did the test then don't bother reading between the lines - the test just isn't that accurate.

We recommend dichlor for pools that have low CYA(stabilizer). If that 63 value is close, your pool has plenty - so stick with bleach. FC of 3 is too low for CYA of 63. Please find, read, and understand the Best Guess Chlorine chart on poolsolutions..com.

I don't know the size of your pool so I can't reaaly say, but if the pool is small, try a cup of Borax. Let it dissolve and mix for a few hours and test pH again. Repeat the process if it's still too low. Try a box at a time if your pool is large.

Get the chlorine into range (you have read the best guess chart) and be sure the pH isn't below 7.2 then swim. You may need to shock the pool to clear the CC (Best guess chart).

OK. I went back and looked at your other thread to find out info about your pool. You have approximately 13,500 gallons. In this sized pool, each quart of 8.25% bleach will add about 1.5ppm of chlorine. You can use that as a reference to help you figure out doses of bleach to add.

Since your chlorine dipped below the minimum needed for a pool with a CYA of around 60, and since you have a CC reading of 0.5 (ideally it should be 0), I am going to suggest that you shock your pool. If you look at the Best Guess Chlorine Chart that Dave mentioned, (in my signature below), you will see that you need to shock up to 20ppm. Go ahead and add the bleach today since yours is already too low. Then, this evening after the sun is off the pool, test again and add enough bleach to get the chlorine level back up to 20ppm. After you add the bleach, wait about 3 hours and then retest chlorine levels and make note of it. Then, tomorrow morning, test chlorine levels again within two hours of sunrise and see how much you lost overnight. If you lose no more than 1ppm of chlorine overnight AND have a CC reading no higher than 0.5, then you can let the chlorine level drift back down. If you lose more than 1ppm, shock it again. You need to keep the pool at shock level until 3 things occur:

1) You lose no more than 1ppm of chlorine overnight
2) You have a CC reading no higher than 0.5
3) The water is clear

From that point on, you need to make sure that you keep your chlorine between 5-10ppm ALL THE TIME! To do so, you need to test your water every evening after the sun is off the pool. Add however much bleach you need to get back to 10ppm. The goal is to find out how high you need to take the chlorine so that you don't drop below 5ppm before the next bleach addition. It may be that you will find that you can get by with adding bleach only every other day instead of every day. But, for now while you are learning how your pool operates, you need to test the water every evening.

I know it sounds high, but a chlorine level between 5-10 in a pool with a CYA reading of 60ish is not high. It is fine to swim with it at that range.

As far as pH goes, yours is a little low, as Dave noted, but nothing severe. I think his idea of a cup of Borax, wait a few hours, retest and redose if needed is fine. You should tweak your pH before you shock the pool because high chlorine levels will make pH readings inaccurate.

Daily tests should be for chlorine and pH. You can check ALk every week or two unless your pH becomes unstable. In that case, check the ALK a little more often. Unless you add a product that has CYA in it, you don't need to test the CYA. Be sure to wait at least a week after the addition before retesting it though. Since you have a vinyl pool and are only using bleach (I think??), you don't need to worry about testing calcium hardness.

Hope this helps!

(By the way, it helps us if you will make a signature line and put all your pool specs in it. That way, when people answer your posts, they don't have to go and try and search and find out what kind of pool you have and volume, etc.

You can make a signature by going to settings (which is in the upper right hand corner near where you sign in) and then on the left side will be an option to create a signature. Put type of pool, volume, size of pump, type of filter and the fact that you have a K-2006. Thanks.)

Okay, thank you. I did the CYA test myself with the Taylor K-2006. I have the Best Guess chart and I'll use it, I just didn't know how much Borax to add. I filled out the pool information form when I entered my information to use this site.....did it not work? I'm not sure how to get back to that page if it didn't. I know it's impossible for you all to give specifics w/o the pool information! It's an Intex round 24' x52" with a Hayward VL series sand filter.
Water looks GREAT now FINALLY after a very long battle of opening w/ algae.
I live on a gravel road so the road dust gets into the pool and settles to the bottom - a never ending battle that I believe there is no solution to. I will get the chlorine up tonight along with the pH. How long in between do I wait to add each chemical? Oh, and am I shocking with straight bleach? How much to lower the CC? I know if it's not enough it will create more CC.
I know, a lot of questions. Again and again I thank you all so very much for your help. :) I do use your link to Amazon to give you a kick-back! Hope it's helping!