Re: Question about plumbing
Can't tell enough from the picture, to answer questions based on it.
+ Any PVC glue will work with PVC. Read the labels and follow instructions. Some of it will be overkill, but better that than joint failure!
+ The white compound is just oxidized PVC glue -- color doesn't really matter.
+ PVC valves can either be threaded or socket (glued).
+ The questions you are asking make me nervous. Many SWCG cells are one-shot install: if you screw it up, you may have to buy a new cell, or at the lease, overpriced & expensive replacement unions. Consider hiring it done.
Re: Question about plumbing
Thanks for the info Ben.
Just to be clear on a few things....
The existing cell (Jandy aquapure) unscrews pretty easily (not shown in pic). I just need to re-plum the new unions since the new cell is larger (evidently Jandy doesn't make the same cell anymore. The new model is a three port and my existing one is a two port).
The main issue I'm having is that the existing plumbing doesn't allow for much modification. All the fittings are right up against each other. So, if there's an elbow, it's connected to another elbow with no gap in between! Very frustrating. I'm guessing that's what you mean by one-shot install. So, I have to take a few steps back before going forward. The hard part is the valve. I can work around the rest. I'll have to take a second look at the valve to see if it's threaded or not. I was hoping to be able to unscrew it, as it looks like part of the existing PVC is screwed in (see pic).
Unless, is it possible to remove the existing unions? I'm assuming not, since everything is glued up. I'm an avid DIYer, but I'll admit this is a bit out of my league.
I'm not going to get too crazy with it. If I think I'm going to get in trouble I'll definitely take your advice and call a pro.
Re: Question about plumbing
Quote:
Originally Posted by
phikappa
The main issue I'm having is that the existing plumbing doesn't allow for much modification. All the fittings are right up against each other. So, if there's an elbow, it's connected to another elbow with no gap in between!
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I'm not going to get too crazy with it. If I think I'm going to get in trouble I'll definitely take your advice and call a pro.
Unfortunately, a rather common problem. By the way, most plumbers are better plumbers than most pool guys. You may better results hiring a plumber instead of a pool guy! (I'm not speaking out of turn: I was a licensed master plumber for years.)
Re: Question about plumbing
Re: Question about plumbing
Just wanted to post an update (so we can have closure!)...
I wasn't able to use any of the existing PVC, so I had to rip it all out, up to the valve (basically what you can see in the pic). When I got to the valve, I talked to a pool pro. He told me how to get the PVC off the valve. If you look at my pic, the first thing I did was to cut the PVC where the little blue arrow is. Then I had to make about 15 cuts with a little hand saw perpendicular to the valve. About 3/8" apart, all the way around the valve. Then I was able to chip off the 3/8" sections with a screw driver, lightly tapping with a hammer. I used a Dremel tool to take off any PVC that I couldn't chip off. All the while, making sure not to cut into the valve. The valve wasn't threaded, so that helped.
Once all the PVC was off, I had to find a 2.5" coupling to attach to the valve, and a 2.5" to 2" reducer. I had to go to a pool supply place for that. Home Depot and some pool places only carry 2" fittings. After that it was normal PVC work. Cutting, fitting, and gluing. I made sure to leave myself a little wiggle room, in case I need to modify my plumbing again. Hopefully, that will never happen!
I turned everything on last night and no leaks! Woo hoo!
Re: Question about plumbing
I have done all my plumbing on my pool, as that was the one part of the original install that was inept--barbed fittings INSIDE Tigerflex, which is flexible PVC. I ALWAYS have quick releases and valves so I can cut off sections to remove them or replace them. And, on the theory that if you don't leave room to cut and re-glue, THAT is the point you'll have to cut and re-glue, I always leave room.
The blue glue is SUPPOSED to be better for flexible PVC...Not sure it's true. My SWG manifold is 2" and all my plumbing is 1 1/2" so a reducer went on each end...with enough 2" glued in to replace as needed. But, since the cell itself is on two quick connects, I hope I don't have a problem for many years.