Trouble with White Tissue Mold

I've been dealing with White Water Mold in my pool for a while now. It took me a long time to properly identify this stuff.

After researching a bunch online, and particularly on this site, I bought a better test kit and have maintained the following routine for the last few weeks:
- test water daily (with Taylor FAS-DPD K-2006 kit) and adjust levels as needed to maintain TA = 100, CH = 200, PH = 7.4, and FC > 12 (there is no CYA in my indoor pool)
- managing FC with Clorox Bleach
- brush all reachable surfaces at least every other day
- using a skimmer sock / debris shield, toss and replace this ever 2-3 days
- replace the filters with brand new ones every 1-2 weeks
- leaving the pool uncovered throughout the day with a ceiling fan running as well as an HRV running, sometimes with a window open

I've just gotten to the point where I no longer lose any FC overnight. I.e. I test the water before going to bed, then first thing again in the morning, leaving the pool uncovered all night, and the FC level remains the same. I assume this means there is no longer any living bacteria or mold in my pool.

How much longer should I maintain this FC level to be sure all of the white water mold is dead?

Is there anything I should add to the pool to ensure that all of the mold in the filtration pipes is completely flushed out?

I'm nervous that the mold is just hibernating or dormant and will spring back to life once the FC level reduces. I've read a little bit about algicides and chemicals used to kill bio films. However, I'm nervous about throwing more chemicals at the pool water without understanding better what to expect from them.

I have a vinyl pool with plastic benches inside and plastic that houses the propellor unit (see http://www.EndlessPools.com/endless-...ifications.php for details). Will a copper-based algicide be safe to use? Is any algicide necessary?

Thanks for whatever advice anyone can offer!
- Nancy