Printable View
Having trouble with CC in my pool.
Pool is only 25000 gallons and is kept about 93 degrees. Seems no matter what i do my CC is between 1.6 and 2.0. Started to shock this pool with no or very little results. My question is could a dirty sand filter be causing all this grief?
We need to know more about your pool in order to be of help. Can you post a set of test results, taken with a drop-based kit, along with what chemicals you've been using in the pool? That will help us make some more informed opinions.....
Welcome to the forum!
Thanks for the response.
This is indoor pool, small and only 6 feet deep at its deepest. We use liquid CL2 about 12 %. Also to keep PH down we inject acid.
Only other chems we use is Oxy Shock every Sunday and Sodium Bicarbonate when Alk drops below our paramaters. CL2 ppm is around 2.5-3.0 and PH at 7.5. Dilution is the solution is what people are saying, but even backwashing the pool might bring CC down couple notches never enough. So i decided to try shocking the pool in addition to backwashing. No real results with this at all. Heading into shut down in Sept and thinking about sand in the filter, couple three years old and prob time to change. Think this might have something to do with my CC prob.....
Shawn
You're running an indoor commercial heated pool, right? You'll need to fill out the chart -- but be SURE to include daily bather load figures in the notes section:Pool Chart Entry FormIndoor, heavily loaded commercial pools are very difficult, and almost all the published information is wrong. The only 'silver bullet' solution I know if is installation of a high-output UV system installed in the circulation system. These 'work' by turning your indoor pool into an 'outdoor' pool.
The problem you are facing is that, contrary to most published data, the CC levels you have cannot be cleared up by shocking, either with chlorine or with the expensive oxy-shock products. Again, contrary to published data, the chloramines found in indoor pools are NOT simple monochloramine, dichloramine, or nitrogen trichloride, but are more complex chlorination products such as chlorcreatine, chlorurea, and worse. Outdoors, chlorine + solar UV + full aeration remove these rapidly from pools, so long as adequate chlorine levels are maintained. Indoors, there is neither UV nor full aeration. And the problem has gotten much worse over the past 30 years, with the installation and use of complex and hard to operate HVAC + pool water heat + dehumidification systems, such as the Dectron, Desert-Aire, or Pool-Pak systems. These systems are usually designed with 10 - 20% continuous fresh air, but at best this is 80% less than the 100% fresh air systems of 50 years ago. Worse, widely varying outside air conditions tend to make the units operate erratically, so the fresh air intakes tend to get 'broken' -- sometimes with a hammer! -- over time.
Installation of a UV system AND conscientious maintenance of fresh air make-up system will usually result in noticeable improvements . . . IF the pool is consistently chlorinated.
Adding sodium bicarbonate will have no impact on the CC levels, and as a rule, neither will Oxy-shock use.
HOWEVER, a UV sytems + maintained fresh air cannot compensate for overloaded indoor pool water.
If your pool is typical of many such pools, it tends to attract large groups of pool users (water aerobics or swim lessons) who tend to have leaky bladders (elderly or toddlers), creating a huge chlorine load from urine, sweat, lotion, etc. Larger and colder pools have less of a problem, because of reduced temps, and typically, more gallons of water per swimmer. However, because year-round competitive swimmers ALL pee in the pool on purpose, rather than by accident, problems arise in those pools as well.
I've produced dramatic improvements in pools like yours, simply by closing the pool for 10 minutes out of every hour. You can estimate the reduction in urine by the number of toddlers or elders who hurry into the rest rooms during the 10 minute break!