Chem log, to see....

...if I'm doing it right.

Test results this AM with HTH 6-way:

Chlorine .75
pH 7.6
TA 260
TH 250

Notes: added 1/4c bleach after test.

Test results this evening:
Chlorine 3
pH 7.5
TA 240
TH 250

Notes: added 1/2c bleach 1 hour before testing, added CYA 1/4c at a time at 30 min intervals. Aerating water for 8 hours per day. Not going to test for CYA until I have infused at least 1/2 of the 4 lb container, as the kit only has enough material for 2 tests. If someone can point me to where I would be able to find just the reagent for the CYA test, it would make it a bit easier on this pool newbie.

I'm not sure I should add any muriatic to the pool while I'm trying to get the CYA in, since that will also lower the pH, albeit slowly.

I will be ordering the K-2006 in the next couple of weeks, so will have better info on what is going on in the water then.

I don't know what happened to my thread in the new guy section, as I can't access that any more. I'd really like to answer a couple of questions that others have asked in that thread.

So far it looks like you're on track. You can get CYA reagent online through several places-- I've gotten it through Taylortechnologies.com and spspool-spas.com. You might be able to order it through Amazon, but I'm not sure.

Got this from my email, from the starter area thread, snipped to answer questions.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bigdave

With less water and poor filtration, things can go south in a hurry.

---

Agreed. I've already seen what the lower volume of water can do.

Quote:

---

You seem to be heading in the right direction (and you're in the right place to learn) as far as maintenance and chemistry but I haven't seen yet where you've ordered the K-2006 aylad recommended. My opinion: it is the single most important start-up chemical for a new pool.

---

Again, I agree on all points. See my first post here about the K-2006.

Quote:

---

I've never see a through-the-wall skimmer for soft side pools and can't imagine how it would work.

---

I have abandoned that idea, as the tension on the sidewall of the pool is rather high. I doubt that the bolt holes would hold against that tension, even with a lot of reinforcement.

Quote:

---

As far as additional returns: I wouldn't want to cut the pool and the one should be OK for a 15' pool.

---

My thoughts on this are that the corrugated tubing that comes with the pool presents very high resistance to water movement. I do plan on replacing this with flexible PVC piping for next year. This alone will most likely take care of the low flow problem.

Quote:

---

....I supppose putting it in a hole could work, I just don't see why. You'd need to modify the ladder. Does your pool have the rope that goes around the bottom of the legs to hold them upright?

---

I understand about the ladder mods. That would be a minor problem, as the legs would also have to be shortened as well. Yes there is a rope. I have already noticed that any movement of the water allows the legs to "walk" and I am constantly having to reset them back into place, even with the rope as tight as I dare make it.

Quote:

---

There are pump / filter choices in the Intex world (all cost more than a K-2006), sand and cartridge. Ben has made some recommendations for filter cartridge upgrades that you may want ot consider in the Construction, Equipment, Operations, Seasonal Care (P)Intex-type Pool Setup & Operations section of the forum. There's probably a lot of stuff in there you want to read anyway.

Good luck and have fun!

---

Yes, I am reading some every day in that section, along with many other places here, to the point of information overload at times. I'm the kind of person that (pardon the pun) "dives in head first" when presented with a new challenge. I seem to be at my happiest when I'm learning new things.

@Aylad -- This thread should answer your additional post in that thread as well.

The reagent question -- Found it on amazon, for a good price. I'll order some when I order the K-2006.

Charlie

Update for today's readings:

Using the HTH 6-way, I get Chlorine holding fairly steady all day at 1.5~2 about halfway between the two shades, with only 1 dose of bleach this morning. Added another dose after testing this evening. pH is slowly dropping from the addition of the CYA, I expected a much faster drop here, reading this morning was 7.4, tonight's was 7.2., But then I am still aerating for ~12 hours a day. Wife doesn't want me to run the pump at night. However, the TA and TH are both slowly dropping.

To verify I am interpreting the tests properly, here is what I'm seeing. At 22 trops of titrating solution, the color just starts to change. at 23 drops the color has changed completely, at 24 drops, the color deepens. no further change at 25 drops. Would this be called 230 or 240? I'm inclined to think 230, since the addition of one more drop only deepens the color. Both the TA and TH showed at this level.

Since I lost only a small amount of chlorine to sunlight today, I took a chance and did a CYA test. I'm guessing ~20, since the dot disappeared right at the point of overflowing. I have added 2 lbs out of a 4 lb container of the CYA, and will continue until it's gone.

I think I for sure need the K-2006 kit, but unfortunately that will have to wait till next payday before being ordered.

Interesting to me is water so clear that you can identify what the black spot on the bottom of the pool is, whether it's a dead fly, spider or piece of a leaf, through almost 4' of water.

Charlie

I'd call it 230 but a 10ppm difference on that test is insignificant, especially when it is that high.

I'm not sure if anybody has talked to you about lowering your alk in a different thread. Please read the following:
Lowering Alkalinity Step-by-Step

Using Muriatic Acid Safely

By the way, CYA doesn't really have much effect on pH.

Thanks, Watermom!

I was unsure of the strength of the CYA on the acid scale, so I'll go ahead with the muriatic to lower the pH, and continue to aerate until the TA and TH come down.

Charlie

Here are a couple of pics of what I was using to circulate/aerate the water, and what I'm using now:

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...h_P1010835.jpg

I don't know if copper would leach from the fittings or not, but from what I've read here, it may not be something I want in my pool.

So, I made this with a replacement cap:

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...h_P1010836.jpg

Very clever! Thanks for sharing that pic! (And, you're right. You do NOT want copper in your pool.)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Charlie_R

My thoughts on this are that the corrugated tubing that comes with the pool presents very high resistance to water movement. I do plan on replacing this with flexible PVC piping for next year. This alone will most likely take care of the low flow problem.

---

I used 1-1/4" 1/4" wall reinforced tubing because I found the intex tubes fragile. It's smooth on the inside.

Thank you!

Results from this evening's tests:

Chlorine...................3 added 1/4 c bleach
pH..........................7.2 holding steady
TA..........................firm 210
TH..........................240 probable testing error?
CYA.........................70-80 depends on who was looking at the black dot.

By these results, I should be running chlorine about 5-7? or should that be higher?

Can't wait to be able to order the good kit.......

Daughter wants to put a "preventative" dose of HTH Algae Guard in the pool, I'm having trouble convincing her that it is not only not needed, but definitely unwanted. She's thinking that we are supposed to need that crap all the time, since the former owner seemed to always need it.

I can't thank you guys here enough for showing how uncomplicated pool chemistry can be, if you really want to learn instead of blindly following pool chem sales experts. They really are experts, at removing money from your wallet!

Thanks ALL!

Charlie