Got my new K-2006 testkit...now what?

Just received my Taylor K-2006 test kit today. The results were eye-opening. And have left me with no idea how to proceed.

I live in Phoenix. In the winter months, my pool needs little attention, but as the temperatures rise, so does my frustration with keeping algae at bay. I clearly did not jump on this soon enough, because about a month ago, I had my first algae bloom. At the time, I couldn't test chlorine levels above 5 ppm, but 4 gallons liquid chlorine seemed to do the trick. Cleared up few days later, but Cl levels stayed off my tests chart.

I noticed that the TA was high, so I began your suggested method of lowering the ph to 7.2, aerating, and maintain that ph until the TA reached 120. That happened today, so I'm still aerating to bring the ph back up.

In the meantime, I ordered my K-2006. I'm still getting algae on the walls and steps, though the Cl levels never dipped below 5 ppm (the highest on my previous kit). Generally, the water looks cloudy, but not green-cloudy.

Today's results from my new K-2006 test are as follows:

FC = 21
CC = .5
pH = 7.2
TA = 120
Calcium Hardness = 775
CYA = 100 +++ (it can't measure above 100, but the water level hadn't even gotten on to the chart before I stopped seeing the lack dot in the bottom)
Saturation Index = 1.25

Obviously, it's the last 3 values that have me concerned. I realize that I operate at a higher Cl level to compensate for the high stabilizer, but is it safe if I don't know just how high the CYA is? What about the calcium? Is my only option to drain, fully or partially?

I'd love to say I'm new at this, but I've had this pool for ten years, and I've never quite gotten the hang of it. Every year I make a new mistake and learn something new. I love how much information I can find on your website, but sometimes I can't find the answer specific to my situation (i.e. multiple issues at once). Even so, I'm bound and determined to that this year I will finally have swimming pool nirvana...or a nervous breakdown...the season's only just begun.

Any advice or direction would be greatly appreciated.

Wow! That's some high calcium hardness reading you've got! Have you been using cal-hypo to chlorinate with like forever or something? Use your test kit and run the calcium hardness test on your tap water.

Also, redo the CYA test but dilute the sample. Take one part pool water and one part distilled water and mix together. Then use this in the CYA test and multiply your result by 2. If you still get a reading of 100, repeat the test but do one part pool water with two parts distilled, test, multiply results by 3. This won't be super accurate with each dilution, but it is better than nothing and will at least give us a ballpark reading for your CYA.

Tell us what products you use on this pool --- meaning ingredients and not just 'shock.'

t's much easier to answer your questions, when we know something about your pool. We often 'waste' the first few posts back and forth collecting information. So, please complete our new Pool Chart form -- it takes about 30 seconds, but will save much more than that.

Pool Chart Entry Form
Pool Chart Results

Repost with requested info and somebody will try and help you go from there.

Welcome to the Pool Forum!

Thanks so much for your reply!

I tested my tap water, and I got a Calcium Hardness of 170. I have to admit, however, this is only the second time I've done this test. The directions say it should turn from red to blue, but to my eye, the colors are more like hot pink turning to blue with purplish particles floating in it. Does that sound right? That said, I'm an interior designer, so my definitions of color are usually a bit more specific that most.

I ran the CYA test again, using the dilution method you suggested. I had to go to the two parts distilled, one part pool water test. It just reached 100, so my CYA must be around 300. Yikes.

I filled out the pool chart entry form - I'm row 101. I use minimal products in the pool, mostly due to what I've read here:

Products used REGULARLY:
--Kem Tek (Trichloro-s-Triazinetrione 95%) 3" tabs in a floating dispenser
--Liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite 10%) only for a green pool
--DuPont (Trichloro-s-Triazinetrione 93.5%, Copper Sulfate Pentahydrate 1.5%) 3" tabs in a floating dispenser - I used this ONLY over this past winter, as they didn't seem to keep the chlorine level high enough in warm weather, plus I have no idea what the copper sulfate is)

Products used OCCASIONALLY:

--Muriatic acid (used recently to fix high TA, but generally only occasionally needed)
--20 Mule Team borax
--Baking soda
--Shock Quick 1 lb. bags (Trichloro-s-Triazinetrione 40%) Sometime these packets come free with the tabs, but every time I've used them, the algae only gets worse.

I've never used the cal-hypo that you mentioned, at least not that I can recall.

Thanks again for all your help!

All that trichlor is what's driving your CYA so high. So...now you have a choice...do you want to run a high CYA/high chlorine pool? (See the "best guess chart" linked in my sig for more information on that). The upside is that you probably will only have to dose your pool once or twice a week, but the downside is that it's going to take a LOT of chlorine to kill off the algae bloom that you already have. Plus, everytime you let the chlorine level fall below 8-10 ppm, you're risking another bloom.

The alternative is to drain part of your water and replace it, which will drop both your CYA AND your calcium levels, if your fill water is only 170 ppm. Either way works, it's really up to you. But...you're going to have to stop using the trichlor because it's driving your CYA sky high. I'm fine with a high CYA pool--I run mine higher than most folks on purpose because I lose a LOT less chlorine that way, but when you get up over the 300 ppm range, that's higher than even I'm comfortable with. I think Pooldoc has a way to lower the CH in the pool without draining, but I'll let him answer to that to see if it's a feasible solution for your pool.


It's your decision, but we'll help walk you through whatever you decide to do.

Janet

Also, you mentioned that some of those trichlor tabs contain copper in them. You do NOT want copper in your pool! Contrary to popular belief, it's not chlorine that stains things and turns blonde hair green, it is copper that does it!

Thank you both for your responses.

I'm not opposed to draining and refilling, if that's the easiest way to fix both the CYA and Calcium issues. However, our daytime temps are already reaching 110 here in Phoenix. Isn't it a bad idea to drain my pool, even partially, with those temps? Or is that another myth perpetuated by the pool stores? If I do go that way, how far should I drain to 1) prevent destroying my pool, 2) bring the CYA and calcium levels back into manageable ranges?

If Pooldoc knows another way to fix this without draining, I am open to all options.

I can't thank you enough for all your help!

Hi Kitty;

Just looked at your figures, and your pool data. If you would, test your tap water's hardness. If it's really hard, then draining and refilling won't help the calcium much.

However, draining and refilling are the only way to fix the high CYA. Test your CYA again by mixing your pool water 1:3 with distilled water (Walmart - 1/4 cup pool water; 3/4 cup distilled, and stir, then test). Multiple the result by 4.

Meanwhile, you can fix your algae problem in 3 possible ways:

1. Use polyquat & brush, brush, brush.
2. Use sodium bromide (& brush, brush, brush).
3. Raise your chlorine REALLY high (40+) (& brush, brush, brush).

I'd recommend polyquat + bromide in a small dose + filtering 24/7. I'll put links for bromide & polyquat below. But, you gotta stop using trichlor. Set your tabs aside, for now. If you drain and refill, you can use them. Otherwise, you'll need to give them away. (They don't store well!)

Kem-Tek 60% polyquat @ Amazon
Nava 60% polyquat @ Amazon

Nava Chemicals 652072097 Yellow Algae Remover, 2-Pound Bottle @ Amazon
Tropi Clear TC-4402-1 2-Pound Yellow Eliminator @ Amazon

You can buy locally, but try to find these exact products . . . or be VERY careful, so you don't end up with something that's "just as good", but actually terrible!