Hi all redoing pool filter and pump

Hi I am repumbing my inground pool and was wondering if I disconnect the pool drain and skimmer will the water drain?Reason is the valves and connectins need to be replaced and adding shut off valve and Jandy for better control of water system..Valve from the drain is metal and was never open anyway...If I cut the PVC to use another valve( which) I plan on using PVC this time will the pool drain?Dain is in deeper end of pool and don't know of anyway to cover if needed...Any ideas?Thank you so much for your help...Ray

If the pipes are below water level . . . yes, it will drain, if you open them.

If you send pictures of your piping and valves, we may be able to suggest some ways to work on them 'wet'. Two possibilities are a Cherne blow-up plug, extracted through a Valterrra slide valve, once the valve is in place; OR if you have threads to work with, simply working fast, and screwing the appropriate size ball valve onto the threads several turns, before closing the valve.

Thank you Pool Doc.I do have pic's but have to wait till I am fully registered to send I believe...The old valve is metal and can't turn at all to open or shut.I believe it is shut now(no water coming from drain at all)They did hook this valve up to PVC piping and was told just replace with PVC Ball valve.I take it then the pressure from the water will make the pool drain if I cut to replace?Same from the skimmer line?Unless I block skimmer hole with plug?I will send pics as soon as able and fully registered...Thank you so much for your help...Ray

You can go ahead and send those pics. Just email them to poolforum@gmail.com. You can also reference the url of this thread to make it easier to get the pictures posted into the right place!

Thank you I sent pics threw poolforum@gmail.com..Thank you very much

Here are the pics:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e...41886541_0.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-v...41887109_0.jpg

If you are going to re-pipe, you've got some more digging to do -- sand and glue joints don't mix well!

If you just want to open your gate valves, there's another options. I've attached a drawing and a schematic of a Nibco gate valve, below, with more of an explanation. But, basically, you just unscrew the stem body from the valve body, use a fine screw driver to get the disc wedge loose, pull it out, and put the stem body back on with no disc in place. Voila'! Your closed gate valve is now open (permanently!).

What happens on those old cheap NRS (non-rising-stem) gate valves, is that the threads inside the disc give way, and you can no longer lift the disc up. It used to be a common problem, but those valves are rarely used any more.

BUT . . . make sure you have a GOOD hold on the valve body, so you don't break the PVC pipe, when you unscrew the stem body! If you take a ball peen hammer, and peen around the top of the VALVE body, where the female threads are (hard enough to leave marks in the brass) it will make the stem body easier to unscrew.

Worse come to worst . . . you'll break the PVC were thinking about replacing anyhow.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B...te-valve-1.png https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6...te-valve-2.jpg

The surface you want to strike is just BELOW #8 in the schematic. The valve disc is indicated by #10.

When you decide to install new valves, use American valves if possible OR make sure they are installed so they are EASY to repair. I've had repeated BAD experiences with Chinese valves -- all they have at Lowes and Home Depot -- even the Watts valves are mostly Chinese! They cut quality in every way they can get away with. In metal parts that means really crummy allows and low grade casting. Getting a valve installed and then having it leak in the BODY of the valve should NEVER happen.

I'm as glad to pay low prices as the next guy . . . but it seems that if the Chinese can figure out a way to rip off the stupid gweilo, all to the better! So, if you're going to buy Chinese, you want an 800lb gorilla like Walmart between you, and their shoddy manufacturing.

If you want cheap valves that are repairable, take a look at these: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4...ve%2520web.jpg If you click the picture, it should take to an Amazon page selling an InTheSwim Valterra knock-off (probably Chinese, but Valterra make by manufacturing in China themselves!). Anyhow, if you buy 1 or 2 more valves than you need, you can install the valves, bag the spares, and use them to do a total rebuild of the valves if needed. Remove the 4 machine screws, and you can replace the entire body of the valve, along with the gaskets.

Thanks Pool Doc...How does that Valterra work?What I was planning on doing was just using a Jandy Valve on both the intake from pool and out going to the pool...The drain and the skimmer are the one's on the pump and the other 2 lines are in coming and the end of the pool and 2 jet ends at the other end...That way I thought I could control better flow going into the pool and coming back into the pool...Like just to flow the water better and clean easier,turn off the jets and all the power will go to the skimmer suck and clean?But I had worried if cutting the water line into the pump it would drain the pool?I could always plug the skimmer I think?I looked at it and the line into pump is about 1 foot below the water line in the pool.By cutting that line and making one pipe up and meet the skimmer in a Tee and use a Jandy for control?What do you think?Can it be done?By the way thank you so much for all your help...Easy to see I'am new and worse comes to worse I'll call pool guy LOL...Thanks again Ben for everything...Ray