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Hi there! Any benefits to using the larger rainbow 300-29 versus the rainbow 300.
Model 300 - Holds 11 large or 98 small tablets. Treats 12,000 to 48,000 gallons.
Model 300-29 - Feeder with triple-capacity 29 in. chamber. Treats 14,000 to 57,000 gallons.
My pool is an IG liner at 19x37. I realize the normal 300 is big enough but I found a vendor that has Model 300-29 for only $10 more. I think from a convenience point, this would be better. Longer time in between refills, correct?
Hi Tim, Welcome to the Forum. According to my internet search on both models, the 300-29 is an In-line Commercial unit, while the 300 is an off-line commercial unit, the Offline seemed to be getting better reviews. Do you currently have an existing unit and looking for a replacement, or is this a prospective add-on?
This is a perspective add on. I know a lot of people that love the tablet chlorinators and I also know there is a cult following against them due to CYA. I don't want to go the way of liquidator (too dangerous in my opinion) and unfortunately, a salt generator is too expensive.
NOT a cult following at all. The info about CYA has been known since the 70's and surpressed because if it were widely known it would work against the chemical companies's bottom lines. They like to have a "cult of ignorance" so to speak to up their profit margin. If the pool is overstabilized and getting algae then they can sell you algaicide and a clarifier (usless against cloudy water from algae). When the algaecide foams they can sell you a defoamer. And so on.Quote:
Originally Posted by giantsnation
IF properly used trichlor tabs can be a useful way to provide a base level of chlorine in the pool, assuming one has a sand filter or DE filter that is backwashed regularly. They are not a good idea with cartridge or bump type DE filters.
After talking to my brother-in-law who has a tablet chlorinator, I think this is the way to go. I did a lot more digging about tabs and related high CYA issues and found that it is not as much of a problem up here in the northeast. WHY? Well, most of research concluded that by the time the levels get to "too high", we're closing the pool and thus, drain a majority of the water and winterizing. With my Sand filter (same as my brother-in-laws), I was told that I should get a small bucket of granulars. That is what he adds once or twice a week. He said between the granulars and the tabs, his pool always looks clear, sparkles and tests well (within acceptable ranges).
Additionally, at a cost of $65 for the rainbow 300-29, I don't see how I can go wrong. I'll get this add tabets and test daily. When I need more FC, I'll add granulars. Typically, I backwash the pool ~ once a week and clean the pump skimmer twice a week.
Also, the rainbow 300-29 has been confirmed as an OFF-LINE model.
giantsnation, (Go GNTS!)
When you say granulars dor you mean dichlor or calcium-hypochlorite?
Your chlorination plan may work for you but you will have to test your CYA level regularly (weekly) and adjust your target FC accordingly. One problem you'll face running high CYA will occur when you have to shock the pool, you'll need alot of chlorine to get to shock level and it will take a long time to get back to normal.
The advice generally given on this forum is to find the CYA level that works for you and your pool and the maintain FC with unstabilized chlorine.
BigTallGuy,
You are the poster formerly known as BTDG, No? What happened to the D? Pool Forum knock the D out of you?
I believe dichlor, which oddly enough I found out this morning in another pool forum that these granulars (http://www.lesliespool.com/Home/Pool...ine/12055.html) should not be mixed with tablet feeder.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDave
So maybe the conclusion is to use the tablet chlorinator with a liquid chlorine as a shock. Any other suggestions for a convenience (inexpensive) feeding system? The Liquidator has been suggested but I know liquid can get expense as well as raise the PH.
As I said, with a sand filter the use of trichlor tabs can be a successful way to provide a background level of chlorination as long as an unstabilized chlorine source is used in addition such as the cal hypo granules you mentioned.(Do not use dichlor since this is a stabilzied chlorine source. Sodium hypochlorite is also useful as a supplimentary chlorine source. Lithium hypochlorite is just to darn expensive!). The fact that you live in an area with a very short swim season and winterize means the CYA will not get a chance to rise much over the swim season. Toward the end of the season you might need to add some polyquat or youmight want ot add borate to 50 ppm at the start of the season. Either will providethe algae control that might be needed without any problems. However, this is not what most of the pool owning populaton experience since there are far more pools in warmer climates that do not winterize so the use of trichlor becomes a major problem. Where I live pools are open year round so trichlor use is not a first choice for chlorination.Quote:
Originally Posted by giantsnation
As far as the chlorinator goes, The Rainbow 300 series of offline feeders by Pentair are, IMHO, the best offline feeders on the market. The 300-29 is listed a spa feeder, the 300-29K is the commercial feeder with the larger chamber that dispenses more sanitizer at a time for large commercial pools over 80k gallons. If you consult the online Pentair catalog they have info and manuals on the different models. The larger sizes (and the extension tubes to increase capaicity) are for dispensing more chlorine for a larger sized pool, not so you don't have to fill them as often.
Yes, after a couple of years on this forum I don't feel so dumb anymore. I am working towards being a big tall smart guy, but that is a ways off.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDave
You are correct, I swear I read In-Line somewhere. I apologize and stand corrected.Quote:
Originally Posted by giantsnation