Review-Hayward Swimpure SWCG up to 40,000 gallons

First off- a few details.
IG Gunite Pool Approx. 18,000 gallons.
Pentair Whisper-Flo 1-HP single speed pump
Pentair Tagelus 60D Sand Filter
Replastered spring 2010
Location, SE Texas

After battling pool problems most of the summer I decided to take the plunge and try a SWCG. Many of the people I have spoke to about them have nothing to say but rave reviews. After doing some reading on here and other sites on the 'net I arbitrarily picked the Hayward Swimpure. Nothing in particular drove me toward this particular model. I almost chose the pentair brand based on the fact that my filter/pump are already pentair but I wanted to give Hayward a shot and I read nothing bad about their products.

Basically my pool problems stem from a couple of things. First and probably foremost is my lack of time being able to take care of the pool like I should. I work sort of an odd schedule and can be gone for days at a time. I have been using the BBB since last summer, but at the end of the swim season last year I started to have water quality problems then. This was near the end of the swim season, so before I could really address any of the problems it was time to close the pool. Fast forward to this year. I started with a fresh drain and re-fill, which I thought would help, but almost immediately I started running into the same problems. Basically battling algae, going into bloom/shock/clear-ish water/algae/shock cycles repeatedly. I was running my pump 24 hours a day at times with sub-par results.

Part of the problem was my lack of access to proper testing. The nearest pool store is in the next town, and my home kits I think were less than accurate. After taking the advice on this site and ordering the Taylor I'm satisfied that I have that problem under control.

But, less about my pool battles and onto the main topic-the SWCG. I installed the unit pretty easily, about 2 hours max. I mounted the controller to a brick wall right outside my garage next to the pump/tank using brick anchor bolts. Wired it in with the booster pump so that it only has power when the main pump runs (as per the directions). Added the necessary salt, about 400 lbs of straight sodium chloride. Waited for the salt to mix, and started it up. Level came in right at 3,300 parts per the controller, but I have yet to verify it by testing as my first salt test kit was damaged during shipping. New kit expected anyday.

After a few weeks of adjusting the output I can definitely tell you that it has cut my pool maintenance time way down. What was a daily chore of test, shock, scrub, etc. has basically just turned into just testing and minor additions. Mostly a small amount of Muriatic Acid about once a week to keep the pH from getting too high (as expected). The water has went from various stages of clear/greenish to a good blue color. The water definitely feels better on our skin, and while it takes getting used to tasting the salt it's not unpleasant. Our eyes no longer burn after swimming, and overall we have had a positive experience.

I chose the 40,000 gallon unit based on the information that I could turn the output way down and thus extend the life of the cell etc. So far I'm running it anywhere from 30-50% output. After first starting it up and experimenting with it at 80% I was able to get the FC up past 15 parts very easily. This was the other reason I chose the larger unit. If need be, I can shock the pool using the SWCG very easily.

I do not have any natural stone coping, or metal ladders/fixtures in the pool other than the sole light (hopefully it will hold up). I do not anticipate having any salt-related problems at this stage, although I may need to re-think where I backwash as I normally backwash into the grass. I BW once already, but didn't notice any dead foliage.

So far my experience has been positive, and what started as a pool battle has turned in my favor. Now I am able to enjoy the pool without having to visit the grocery store seemingly daily lugging 10+ gallons of bleach at a time.

I hope my post will help anybody looking to do this to their pool and I will keep updates on the system as it ages.

Are you running stabilizer with your system. I am told my system is large enough for my pool but I never get Ch at 15ppm. Even after a super chlorinate.

Yes, I am running stabilizer. Last night I measured it at 40 ppm, so I added a little more. I am reading that the stabilizer needs to be a little higher for these units. It should be noted that I oversized my cell by 2x.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mr.Mooks

Are you running stabilizer with your system. I am told my system is large enough for my pool but I never get Ch at 15ppm. Even after a super chlorinate.

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Usually when SWCG owners shock the pool, they use bleach or some other form of chlorine that can be added at the same time. We're told by SWCG experts that using the SWCG to attain shock levels can cause your cell to wear out too soon. It's easy (and probably more efficient) just to add a 15 ppm dose of bleach if you need to shock.

Janet

I agree with this, and I will use liquid bleach if I do need to do any shocking. I plan on never running the cell above 80% in hopes to extend it's life. If I recall, the cell alone costs about $400-600. I'm hopeful that the cost will come down so when I need to replace it in hopefully 5+ years from now it will be cheaper than when I bought it.

After several weeks of continued usage I continue to be impressed by the SWCG. 2nd best thing I have done to the pool after the plaster job. Water is crystal clear today.

Yeah, most SWCG manufacturers want a CYA level of 70 or 80ppm. I believe it saves wear and tear on the unit as you use less chlorine with a high CYA if you maintain the required residual level, which is no less than 5% of the CYA level.

Carl

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TheGoose

Mostly a small amount of Muriatic Acid about once a week to keep the pH from getting too high (as expected).

I do not have any natural stone coping, or metal ladders/fixtures in the pool other than the sole light (hopefully it will hold up). I do not anticipate having any salt-related problems at this stage, although I may need to re-think where I backwash as I normally backwash into the grass. I BW once already, but didn't notice any dead foliage.

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If you lower your TA, you may find you PH does not drift up as much. I would suggest aiming for 80 to start and see if it slows the PH drift. You could also consider adding about 50ppm of borates down the road, but maybe start with the 80 TA.

I backwash regularly onto grass (and salt is usually between 3500-4000 and the grass, if anything, looks greener.

Good to know.

Added a little chlorine yesterday for the first time. Had some algae pockets, so I decided to shock the pool to give it a boost.

Amazing how 5 ppm of chlorine with the SWCG feels like about .5 with regular chlorine.