I want the CC test only

Is there a way, using the Taylor K-2006 kit, to just skip over the FC test and go directly to the CC test?

When doing the CC test following the FC test, the CC test water turns colorless after adding just one drop of the reagent. I'm curious to know whether I'm close to or a little over the 0.5 mark (I'm testing using a 10ml sample).

I'd like to satisfy my curiosity and do a test using a 25ml sample, but I don't want to spend the drops to get a more-accurate FC test. I just want to know with greater precision what my CC level is.

Can I skip over the FC test and go directly to adding the 5 drops of reagent that begins the CC test? Or do I have to do the full FC test (using lots of that test's reagent) before it's ready for the CC test?

I know of no way to get the CC reading without getting the FC reading first.

I know you like precision but ......... I think you may be fretting a little too much over this pool. If you are careful about maintaining your levels, you really don't even need to test CC every day. You actually don't even need to use your K-2006 every day. Most of the time I use a cheap OTO/Phenol red kit for my daily testing. It will save your reagents and unless you have a high CYA/high cl pool, the OTO kit goes high enough for daily testing. Then, you can use your K-2006 once a week for more complete testing. (This is what many other people do as well. I know I read a post just today where Waterbear also said that he uses an OTO kit for daily testing and K-2006 weekly.)

Chlorine should be tested daily, pH a couple of times a week, TA weekly, CYA maybe monthly. (If you are fighting algae or needing to adjust one of these things you would need to test more frequently obviously.)

I understand that you are in a huge learning curve right now and I totally understand that. But, relax. You're doing fine!

Thanks Watermom.

I actually do plan on relaxing my K-2006 testing after a couple more weeks. I'm trying to sift through the deluge of information I get from the two pool companies that test my water (I'm about to release one of the two after tomorrow's test), the K-2006 tests, the OTO tests, and everything I've been reading in this forum. I'm really not uptight, though that may not be evident from my heavy forum posting.

I may try a 0.2 PPM test this weekend, just to see how much CC I really do have in my pool. No one is complaining about eye or skin irritation, and no one says they smell chlorine. I'm just curious to know what I've got and what I've not got in my pool. I certainly won't do 0.2 PPM testing regularly, and by summer's end, I'll settle into once-a-week testing with the K-2006, too. Right now, it's all so new, and I'm trying to get my strategy down for what I'll do going forward.

This morning's FC/CC reading @ 0.5 measurements showed a barely discernible CC level (meaning that I almost didn't have to add 1 drop of reagent to clarify the water during the CC test it was already so clear -- though adding one drop did seem to improve the clarity just a smidgeon). I've noticed over this week that sometimes the CC level turns a slight shade of pink after adding 5 drops of reagent following the FC test, and sometimes it's a barely discernible shade a pink (meaning less than a "slight shade of pink"). Is it normal for CC levels to bounce around slightly? What causes the CC level to drop if you're not shocking your pool?

It is normal for CC to bounce around slightly. Sunshine will cause the CC level to drop........

It is not how deep the red color is, it is whether there is ANY red color at all. It one drop changes the color and a 2nd drop has no effect then you have .5 ppm CC with a 10 ml sample. Remember, this is NOT a colormetric test and the color can vary based on just how much DPD powder you put in. IF you start with more DPD powder the pink color is more intense in both the FC and CC tests. If you use less it is more pastel. You want to test until one more drop does not produce any more color change since ALL the ttitation tests we do are based on color CHANGE, not the color!

As far as wanting more precision it is really not necessary BECAUSE the reason for testing is to know when to add something, what to add, and how much to add to get the water in balance and unless you know EXACTLY how much water is in your pool (by either metering the water on filling or determining the volume chemically) then you have your first dosing error. Next you have to take in account the precision of the test you are doing and you have your second dosing error (FC test with 10 ml. sample has a precision of 1 drop which is +/- .5 ppm for example) Since the volume of water in the pool is most likely off by a a greater error this testing error is "close enough for government work" so to speak.
Remember it's not rocket science or a lab experiment--it's a swimming pool and, IMHO, you should spend more time swimming and less time testing if your numbers are in range.:D

With the 10 ml test one drop on the CC test means you can have 0 ppm CC up to 1 ppm CC. Now, the smallest amount of CC detectable by the human nose (strong chlorine smell) is .4 ppm CC so if you are testing at 1 drop but don't smell chlorine then you don't have any apprecialbe CC. If you do smell chlorine then you might want to shock.

The 25 ml test is really more appropriate for COMMERCIAL spas where some localities limit the CC to .4 ppm (which, with the 20 ml test could be as low as .2 ppm or as high as .6 ppm) since CC tends to be a big problem in spas particularly commercial ones) and the fact that .4 ppm has been found to be the threshold for smelling CC.