I hate my pool....

I can't see the second step. First mistake, I didn't cover the pool so it got lot's of tree trash in it. I think that's gone now. I used a copper/silver ionizer (Argenia systems) the past two years. Last year I never got the Cu level to recommended standards and the pool was cloudy all year. I believe the controller is bad so I decided to try Chlorine. this year. There is no measurable Cu in the water. ph was 6.8 and I added too much borax and got it up to 8.2 with alkalinity of 100. Shocked with 10lb of dichlor granules. Added about 6 trichlor tabs to the skimmer and got the Cl up over 2. Still pea soup so next day I added poly dimethyl ammonium chloride (clarifier). Vacuumed to waste twice. No progress, next day I added a sand filter in series between my pump and cartridge filter and at my next test, Cl was basically gone and ph was 6.8 and no change in pool color. So now I've found you folks, and I'm ready to be teachable.

One thread suggested I may need to add around 80 gallons of bleach. Another that I may need to drain it. Draining is realistic, I installed the pool, so I know the mechanics. Its the chemistry that's killing me. My current chemical inventory is a 50 lb bucket of trichlor tabs, a gallon of alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (algicide 40) and a few ounces of the clarifier. I have a milky green mess and I need help.

Well, we hope we can help you NOT hate your pool!

However, there's no really easy way out of a swamp. If water's fairly cheap where you are -- and you are NOT filling from a well with metals (iron, managanese, etc.) in the water -- refilling may be the easiest way to go.

Depending on how swampy your swamp is, it could take 80 gallons of bleach, and a lot of vacuuming and filter cleaning besides. Having the sand filter will make it easier, since you don't have to remove it to clean it. If your pool has started to change color, from dark swamp green, it may not take 80 gallons. But BRUSH your pool first. If doing so turns it back to dark green . . . it will likely take a LOT of cleaning to get it clear.

You can't really use the trichlor to clean up a mess - it's too hard to dissolve a bunch of it at once. On the other hand, if you get a couple of floaters, you can use the tabs once your swamp is clean.

Think about it, and let me know how you want to.

Regardless of what you do, you need to be able to test your water. So, go ahead and order a Taylor K2006 (or 2006C, with 3x the # of tests). There is an Amazon link in my signature. When you get to Amazon, check the kit seller, and if it's not Amato Industries, hold off a day till they restock. Some of the other sellers -- we haven't had a chance to see which is which -- ship K2005 kits instead of K2006 models.

By the way, if you do drain, it might be easier if you use your vacuum hose and vacuum head to set up a siphon, and then vacuum the goop on the bottom out onto the ground. If you've brushed first, and then vacuum all that goop out, you can probably leave 6" - 12" in the pool, pour in 5 gallons of bleach, mix, and then start refilling. But, you do want to remove as much algae sludge as possible!

Okay, I decided to drain it. By the time you read this I hope it'll be well on its way to being refilled. My tap water reads over 1.5ppm Cl but less than 3.0 using my Pentair model 78 test kit. (yes, I'll order the other kit, but this is what I have for now.) pH is 7.2. Since I'm starting over, I'm pulling the sand filter back out of the system--it's not sized to handle the high speed of the pump--I scavenged it off another pool.

Awaiting further instructions. (Actually I'm gonna read some forums to figure out what you're gonna tell me.)

Also, do you have a recommendation on an automatic cleaner like a Kreepy Krauley or a Barracuda. I plumbed the pool for a suction side cleaner but Ive never bought one.

Thanks,
Tommy

You'll need to buy some CYA. It is sometimes labeled as conditioner or stabilizer. Check the label ingredients. You want cyanuric or isocyanuric acid. Add about 5 lbs. That should get the level to about 35-40. Add it slowly to the skimmer and then run the pump 24/7 for at least the next 4 to 5 days to give it time to dissolve.

In the meantime, it will be tough to keep chlorine in the pool as it will quickly be lost to the sun. You'll need to add bleach a couple of times a day at least for about the first week. Each time, add enough bleach to take the chlorine back up to about 6ppm. In a 16,500 gallon pool, each quart will add approximately 1ppm of cl. Once the CYA gets dissolved, you'll be able to test and add bleach in the evenings only. With a CYA of 35-40, you'll want to keep the cl between 3-6 all the time.

Keep the pH between 7.2-7.8. We use Borax to raise it when necessary and muriatic acid to lower it if it gets too high.

Try and get a good kit when you can. It makes pool maintenance so much easier.

Hope this helps. Keep us posted how it is going. Keep reading here on the forum and also on our sister website www.poolsolutions.com.

Not ignoring your advice, just proposing a possible alternative. Since it looks like filling will take 10-12 hours, is it a good idea to put some trichlor pucks in a bucket and put the water hose in the bucket? Or I could put some in the pump basket and run the pump drawing from the bottom drain. I expect I can add the acid by putting it in a sock in a bucket with a hose also? Only reason for these suggestions is to minimize any chance of a bloom while its filling. I'm gunshy after fighting the 'swamp'.

Sorry I didn't answer sooner. Got distracted dealing with an inappropriate response. It's probably moot, but I'll go ahead and answers so if anyone else reads this thread, they will benefit.

Filling with tabs in a bucket would be fine. You might want to make sure your hose's end isn't in direct contact with the tabs. And, you'll STILL need to make sure that there's enough chlorine - the tabs will help, but probably won't be enough. So, you'll need to pour bleach into the pool.

BUT, do NOT pour the bleach directly on the tabs. If you do, bad things *will* happen.