Intex SWG.

I apologize if this is a repeat. I already typed up this post, but I got an error message when I click submit.

We just set up a 20 x 48 Ultra-Frame Intex Pool with salt water generator and sand filter this weekend.

First, I want to make sure I didn't misunderstand. I read the BBB method which I think is fabulous!! I just want to double check that I can use this method with an Intex salt water generator.

Secondly, regarding the BBB method, do I add them directly to the pool water?

Third: The owner's manual for the salt water generator says to test for copper ions. I am having a hard finding copper ion test strips online. I called 2 pool stores about them. One pool store said that they can sell me a liquid copper test kit for $98 (OUCH)! Is this necessary? The other pool store told me that they didn't carry them and weren't sure why I needed them. They said that I simply needed salt test strips. Any thoughts? Also in my research for copper ion test strips I came across salinity test strips. Are these similar, different, necessary?

Fourth: At the moment, I only have test strips for testing the water. (That's all our Walmart had and the pool stores are a bit of a drive, so I want to make sure I have everything I need before I make the trip.) Are they acurate enough for the time being? - My kids are dying to get in the pool. Can't blame them we actually have 90 degree weather today and tomorrow, then down to the 70's.

We ran our SWG last night for 5 hrs and again this morning for 6 hrs. The results are as follows:
TH 400 (ideal, right?)
FC 0-1 (too low)
PH 8.4 (too high)
TA 240 (way too high)
CYA 30-50 (ideal)

So from what I read, here's what I was thinking...
add some muriatic acid (haven't come across the info as to how much to add - someone wanna send me the link)
run the SWG
test
repeat if PH and TA too high

Should I add some liquid household bleach too? Or more salt, since we have the Intex SWG. Or do a boost?
Which would you do first?
Do I have this right, at all :) ?

Oh, and for the kiddos, do they need to wait to go swimming till we get the levels right?
And how long do they need to stay out after adding muriatic acid?

I would appreciate clear, precise directions!
Thanks for all your help!!!
Jennifer in SD

Hi Jennifer and welcome to the forum. Lots of questions! That's good. I'll answer part of them for you and let someone else answer a few of the others.

+ Yes, you can use BBB with your pool.

+ Where to add chemicals. Bleach can either be poured in front of a return jet or poured slowly into the skimmer while the pump is running which is what I do. Borax is added slowly to the skimmer while pump is running, breaking up any clumps. Same for baking soda. Muriatic acid is poured slowly and carefully in front of a return jet, being careful not to splash it on you or on your liner. Wear gloves, glasses and be upwind of fumes. Nasty stuff.

+ I don't know about the copper ion strips. Someone else will need to answer that part for you.
+ You will need to be able to test for salt content. Taylor sells a salt kit that we often recommend. I'm not sure how accurate the salt test strips are.

+ The test kit that we recommend is the Taylor K-2006 or 2006C which is the same kit with larger quantities of some of the most used reagents. If you order it through the Amazon link in my signature, the Pool Forum makes a little money in the process which helps keep us online. (The seller should be Amato Industries only; some other sellers are substituting the K-2005 which you do NOT want.)

+ You do need to add some bleach. With a CYA of 30-50 (you really should get a more precise reading, by the way) - you need to keep your chlorine between 3-6 all the time or you risk an algae bloom.

+ You do need to use some muriatic acid to lower the pH. Since your alk is also high, you can work on that at the same time. More info about that can be found at this link:

http://www.poolsolutions.com/gd/lowe...p-by-step.html

If you give us your volume, we can make a recommendation of amounts of bleach and acid to use.

+ Your hardness level is at the upper level before you start to have problems. You do NOT want it any higher. Do NOT use any calcium hardness increasers, or cal-hypo. Actually, soft-sided pools do NOT need calcium, contrary to what many pool stores will tell you.

+ Keep the kids out for an hour or so after adding the acid. Also about a half hour or so of adding bleach.

Hope this helps. Somebody else should come along soon who can answer you more about the copper/salt kits. If not, ask again in a day or two in case it just gets missed.

Repost if you have further questions!

According to this formula in a pamphlet we have
20 ft diameter x 20 ft diameter x 3.5 ft ave. depth x 5.9 = 8260 gal pool capacity

Thank you for prompt and detailed response! I appreciate it.
Wondering, do I need to lower my hardness level and if so, how?
Also, since I can't just run out and purchase a Taylor K2006 test kit, will have to wait for it to ship, should I treat according to the test strips? Should I wait? Can we swim in the mean time? Or do you recommend waiting until correct levels are achieved?

I did find a pool store near us that carries a Bioguard Test Kit for $28.95. Would this be better than the test strips until I can get a Taylor K2006? Or don't waste my money?

Thanks again!!

The only way you're going to be able to lower the hardness is to drain some water and refill with water with a lower hardness level. You would need to test your fill water and see if it's worth that to lower it. If the hardness of your fill water is 400, though, you'd be wasting your time. Just don't use any cal-hypo products, and keep your TA and pH on the low side, if you can, to prevent milky water issues.

If the Bioguard kit is a drop-based kit, then it's going to be better than the strips that you're using--but at least the strips are better than nothing. If the pool is clean and clear, and you get your chlorine levels up to the 3-6 range, then there's really no reason why you can't swim--but I would go ahead and drop that pH as soon as you can because pH above 8.0 is hard on a vinyl liner.

You might also check with the owner's manual of your SWCG--most recommend a CYA level higher than that for optimal cell life. You can add CYA by itself--I get mine at WalMart--to get to the level that your manual recommends.

Janet

To help you determine how much bleach to add when you test, with a volume of 8260, each quart of 6% bleach will add about 1.8ppm of chlorine to the pool.

The only way to lower calcium hardness is to do a partial drain and refill. As long as you don't use anything which will take it any higher and as long as you aren't having cloudy water problems, I wouldn't worry about it right now. But, you do need to get that alk down. For this small pool, I'd probably use 1 cup of muriatic acid at a time. Be careful with that stuff!

I'd probably just live with the strips you currently have until the kit comes.

Add some muriatic acid. A half hour later, add some bleach -- enough to get up to about 6ppm.. A half hour later, GO SWIM!! When you get out of the pool tonight, test cl and pH again and add more acid if still high. Make sure you run your pump for several hours after adding.

Just wanted to say THANK YOU!! We add some bleach and muriatic acid and are well on our way to getting the levels corrected. At present, the water looks crystal clear - beautiful. The test strips are still showing the PH too high, so we'll keeping working at it, slowly. Order the test kit as you suggested, hopefully it will be here by the end of the week. The kids went swimming last night and have been in and out all day!! So much fun already : ) It's a little cold for me yet, but I have put my feet in. Again THANK YOU for all the advice.

Oh, still don't know any thing about the copper ion strips...anyone?