Just started taking care of my own pool - Initial Questions

I decided to start taking care of my own pool this year and have a few questions after reading all of the wonderful info on this site.

To start, I have an ~20,000 gal inground concrete pool. Had an acid wash earlier this year (before I fired our pool guy), so water is fresh. Current readings with the Taylor kit are:

FC: 0.4
pH: 8
TA: 110
CH: 170
CYA: 37

I added 24 oz dry acid tonight to get the pH down a little before dealing with the chlorine issue tomorrow. My question is about the best way to maintain the pool to minimize the amount of chlorine I need to add (adding daily is too much work - I leave early and get home late from work and maintaining the pool is the last thing I want to do). It is just me and my wife, no kids, and we use the pool maybe twice a month on the weekends. I live in SE Florida (near Fort Lauderdale, approx. 13 miles from ocean) and the pool is in the sun for the better part of the day. I read that aylad keeps CYA high to minimize chlorine use and this might work for me. Our pool guy came once a week and just seemed to add liquid chlorine, but based on what I read, our pool was likely out of balance for most of the week.

Second question: I know liquid chlorine is preferred, but I am disabled and schlepping liquid chlorine jugs looks like a real hassle. Cal hypo seems much easier. Leslie's Power Powder Plus 1 lb bags seem very convenient if I just adjust the dosage and keep an eye on CH. Thoughts?

Thanks!

Looking forward to making my pool crystal clear (looks clear during the day - at night, I see suspended particles in the light - nothing big, just not crystal clear - does it ever get crystal clear at night?).

first, the cal-hypo is fine if your willing to deal with the increase CH- may have to due some partial drain/fills as it gets higher and maybe causes some cloudiness.
The fine suspended particles should filter out over time, with good water balance- what type of filter do you have?
Definitely lower your pH, and the higher CYA is manageable if you use a higher level of FC- does allow a little more leeway in how frequently you have to add chlorine

Hi - thanks for the response.

I have a cartridge filter, Hayward StarClear Plus C1200. Just added pool details to my signature. :D

Pool is a pool-spa combo where the spa is in one corner, raised up, and some of the returns go into the spa which overflows as a 2 ft wide waterfall into the pool, so the water is constantly aerated. Also have a blower for the spa if additional aeration is required.

the cartridge filter should work fine to clean up the small particles over time- just watch the returns and make sure the cartridge doesn't get any damage that lets stuff through!
I add DE to sand to make it filter finer/faster... don't know if this is recommended on cartridges.

You can use Cal-Hypo but be sure to give it time to disolve as it can make your pool cloudy. Also you'll need to test for CH and when it hits 400ppm, you are done with Cal-hypo.

But you have a number of options, given that the bulk and weight of LC is a problem (some stores sell 2.5 gal carboys--half the weight of 5 gal).

Here's what I see: T/A:110 and pH of 8. Just bring pH down to 7.6 will lower T/A, but should still keep it in the recommended range. However, if pH keeps going up, you may want T/A lower, like in the 60-80ppm range.

Here's another idea: Normally, with a CYA of 35-40 (37 is a guess), I'd say you were done with CYA. But, if like aylad, you want to run a higher pool to reduce chlorine additions, aiming for CYA=80ppm and keeping FC in the 5-10ppm range is reasonable.
So...Tri-Chlor tabs are, given your conditions and desire, actually the ideal solution. They will

a) Release chlorine slowly and regularly, meaning you don't have to add chlorine.
b) Are very acid, so if you have a rising pH problem they can control it.
c) dump stabilizer into your water.

BUT, you STILL have to watch your chems...but you know that. When CYA hits 80ppm, you are done with Tri-chlor tabs.
Plus you should check your FC and pH daily. If you can't do it daily, then do it every other day. You are watching for (obviously) too low FC and for changing pH--trending too high (now) or too low(possible with Tri-Chlor).

If the tabs take pH too low, well Borax will fix that and it's not that heavy, only 4lb/box.

So, just a thought:
1) Use Tri-Chlor tabs until CYA=80ppm
2) Then switch to Cal-Hypo until CH=400ppm
3) Then use bleach, or one-gallon containers of LC (more expensive than carboys, but easier to carry).

With a balanced pool at CYA=80ppm you shouldn't need to be adding more than 1/2 gallon of LC every 2-4 days.

Your situation is a little unusual as your limiting factors are time and being disabled, rather than cost of the items. Try to buy the chems at a discount like K-Mart or WalMart or box stores. Be sure tri-chlor tabs are NOT "double acting" and do NOT contain copper.

Ultimately, though, the rules of pool maintenance don't change. We recommend the B-B-B method of Bleach, Borax and Baking Soda to get people to understand that they are fed nonsense by pool stores and pool services, and that you do NOT have to spend a fortune or hours and hours maintaining your pool. You can maintain your pool perfectly well, using B-B-B, plus MA and ONLY go to the pool store to buy CYA.
When one comprehends all that, one can, given certain very specific conditions, use some of the pool store stuff effectively to make their life easier. That's all I'm suggesting, now that you understand the importance of measures of CYA vs FC, and of CH.

I'm currently using up Tri-Chlor tabs as I had 0 CYA when I opened and a floater under the solar blanket is keeping a constant FC for me.....And Borax is cheap (I've had to add it). When the tabs are gone, if CYA is over 30, I'll go back to LC. If CYA hits 50, I'll take them out and use LC as well. Meanwhile, I just test every day (except for the weeks of "monsoon". Then I tested when it stopped raining! :) )

Carl

OK - tri-chlor tabs seem like a good solution given the facts. Is there a rule of thumb on dissolve rate? Want to know approx how much to purchase (good deals on bulk, but if it will take 2 years to use 100#, I can live without the savings).

Thanks!

I certainly wouldn't get 100#. Go for what you can carry. There are dissolve rates but ....I don't know what they are. Also, floaters and in-line chlorinators have adjustable rates, so you have to play with them until you see what works.

Carl

The beauty of online pool supply shopping: discount codes and free shipping. Buy all you want and the delivery guy puts it on your doorstep. :-) You can usually find at least 20% off coupons.

Can't beat that! Waiting for my new Android phone now! Should I call it "Data" or "BladeRunner"?

Carl

I like BladeRunner (or Deckard to be even more discreet).