Pool levels.

Well out of curiosity I took a bottle of water to our local pool place and tested it. The SWG was reading 1900 and I though that had to be wrong, well it wasn't. I added the additional 4 bags that I had sitting here and it is just shy of 2900 so I need to add another bag. I just need to know how many PPM a 40# bag of salt will bring the pool salt level up to.

Here are the results they are obviously low due to us just getting the pool started for the first time. She did say that I need the stabilizer (8#) to add to the pool so I might pick that up there to keep on good terms.

FC .3PPM
Total Chlorine .4PPM
Combined Chlorine .1PPM
Ph 7.1
Hardness 54PPM
Alkalinity w/Stabilizer 0PPM
Cyanuric Acid 8PPM
Copper 0PPM

This is what she suggested that I do. 1st add 65# of hardness increaser let that mix around for a while and then add 56# of alkalinity increaser to the pool. Then when the levels are all correct add 8# of stablizer

What volume is your pool? Plaster, vinyl, or fiberglass?

The chlorine values look like they might be off by a decimal point. That's just my guess though.

I wouldn't add 65 pounds or 56 pounds of anything to my pool. I would get a good test kit (Taylor k-2006), do my own water testing, and then use the pool calculator to figure out how much to add of what compound, and then I'd add it in small increments and test after each addition.

It's a 30K vinyl pool.

I am very skeptical of your test results--there's no test that I know of that can distinguish 8 ppm of CYA, and I very much suspect that your TA and chlorine numbers are wrong. I highly encourage you to get your own drop-based test kit and do your own testing. The Taylor K-2006 is so far the best one we've found, and you can use the link in my signature to get it at the cheapest price we've found it from so far (make sure Amato is the seller--if there's a different seller, don't order because some of the suppliers are substituting the K-2005, which is not the same kit).

In a vinyl pool, the hardness increaser is just about useless, except to make lots of money for the pool store. Pass on that. Also, the alkalinity increaser is the same thing as baking soda, but at multiple times the price. If you decide to raise your alk, use baking soda but please double check that number before you do so. I'm with AnnaK, I'm not willing to add 56 pounds of ANYTHING to my pool, so definitely check that number before you do anything.

If you feel you need to keep on good terms with your pool store, you can get the stabilizer there--but check the owner's manual on your SWCG and make sure what the recommended CYA level is.

Janet

According to the pool calculator, a 30,000 gal pool with zero alkalinity would require 35 pounds of baking soda. That's a lot of baking soda! I don't believe your water has zero TA (total alkalinity).

To go from 2900 ppm salt to 3200 ppm salt you'd need to add 75 pounds. I know nothing about SWCGs but 3200 ppm sticks in my mind as a target. Your owner's manual would tell you.

Is there another pool store in your vicinity where you could have the water tested?

Ya, I need to add another bag of salt it says to be around 31-3200PPM on the salt.

I'm not sure if there is anywhere else to test the water. I'll have to call around. I was thinking that the baking soda was the same thing as the alkalinity.

I'm going to add another bag of salt to get to where i need to be on that and get the rest going where it needs to be.

also, if you're TA is wrong, as suspected, your pH will rise over time. I think it will rise just from the aeration effects of the SWCG as well
I wouldn't worry about the pH of 7.1, as long as it doesn't go lower
And in a vinyl pool, hardness is almost meaningless- wouldn't worry about that one either!
you do need CYA, or stabilizer, to help the SWCG maintain FC levels- check the SWCG specs, but probably need around 70ppm...

I'm goign to let everything circulate for a few days and retest the water and see where everything is and if need be make changes then.

You need to keep your chlorine level up until your salt water generator kicks in. Everything else you've been told is right on target.

With an SWCG, our experts tell us you'll be looking to have a fairly low T/A, 60-80 ppm,
a fairly high CYA, also 60 to 80, and
to keep your chlorine level at least at 1/20 of your CYA level. So if CYA is 60-80, free chlorine should be 3 to 4 ppm.

Carl