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My Dig-220 is showing "low amp" so I want to clean the SC-60 blades to squeeze a little more life out of it. The problem is that the power cord does not easily lift off. I installed it, but I don't recall how it connects, and I don't want to force something that can't be forced.
Do I just keep pulling harder? If that still doesn't release it, can I use some leverage (e.g. a screwdriver under it)?
The cell cord is just a compression fit onto the cell prongs. You should be able to wiggle the cell plug, but grasp it at the thicker rubber part, rather than the cord, while you're lifting it off.
Yes, you can also use a flat bladed screwdriver to wedge the cell cord off.
However, you may find some corrosion between the cell plug and prongs. This can occur as a result of moisture getting in the cell plug.
Sean,
I am seeing some odd numbers. Would you diagnose for me?
It is a Dig220 with SC-60 that is close to five years old. I have never performed an acid clean of the blades until now. I had the low-Amp warning, so I cleaned the blades. Still get the low Amp warning and it shows .5A. The voltage went within minutes from 7v to 1v to 0v. Total amp hours is 51,400. Is a 0v reading a cell problem or a system problem?
It would seem obvious that the cell has reached the end of its life, but at $800+ :mad:, I would sure like to get another season out of it. :confused: What is confusing is that the outer blades show hardly any wear compared to the inner blades. Any chance of getting some more out of this baby?
Were you able to remove the cell cord?
If the cell to cell plug connection was clean, then you may have a blown Cell Fuse, or possibly a a bad power module. OR it may be as simple as checking your salt level and ensuring you're at least at 3000 ppm.
Usually when the cell goes bad, your voltage will be 29 volts, with low amperage.
0 Volts and 0 Amps usually go back to the power module, or as I mentioned, the cell fuse. When you have the power off, and the covers removed, on the top left quadrant of the circuit board, you will see a white, slo blow fuse (20 amp, 250 VAC). You'll need to remove the fuse from the board to check it for continuity. If it's bad, Radio Shack should have this fuse.
You "may" also see this condition if you're very low in salt. If your salt level is ok, then bumping it up to 4000 ppm will squeeze a few months of life more.
Hope this helps.
Thanks, Sean. Yes, the plug came off cleanly. I just needed to know that a hard pull would not damage anything.
I appreciate the fuse diagnostic info. Salt shows 3100ppm on the Dig-220 panel, but I will check independently. Will let you know.
Thanks again.
Thanks again, Sean. Here's the latest...The fuse checks out OK.Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolsean
The salt level is 3000ppm (checked independently).Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolsean
This only leaves the power module. How would I check that?
Also, I have to add now that after pulling the cover to check the fuse, I have a new problem. I get a display that says "Purifier Off. Chec" (the display ends and the 2nd line is blank - so I don't know what to check. And, it indicates 0 salt.
I've never gotten into board level diagnosis so sorry, can't help there. However, there are some simple visual inspections you can perform.
First, if you're not comfortable with handling electrical stuff, don't go any further. Contact an electrician or Authorized AutoPilot Service Center.
Second, if you are ok with electic, turn the power off to the systems.
Third, remove both covers to get to the circuit board.
Forth, inspect the circuit board for any signs of discoloration, burns, or damage to the components on the board. Especially in the upper left quadrant, where the bridge rectifier and capacitors are located, look for damage, such as the capacitors swelling up (and indicator that they have leaked/failed).
Regarding the partial check system display, that's a new one on me. You may check the wire harness to ensure they are all plugged in correctly. The only display that involve "Purifier Off, Check ____" is Check Flow. If salt is at 0 ppm, it could very well be due to insufficient flow through the manifold assembly so it's not getting flow, and not allowing the trisensor to read the salinity.
Hope this helps,
Sean,
I have been out for a while, and not able to work on this problem (just been using a floater and 3" tabs to get by). But, I am back on it now. Thanks for your help and patience.
First, the good news: the Purifier Off message has gone away so I am back to the simple problem of low amps. The "Test" menu still shows 0v @ .5A.
As I reported before, the fuse shows continuity. Inspection of the board does not show any of the signs you told me to look for.
This leaves me wondering what to do. I don't want to invest in a new cell, only to find out I have a board problem that needs major repairs. Can you ballpark what the cost of a replacement board will be?
The low amps and low volts indicate that it's not getting a signal to activate the cell. Check the programming of your system to see if under Set Relay, is it set for Remote Runs Pump. This is only used if you are using an Electronic Control System to control the salt system. You should be set on External Timer, or One Speed/Two Speed Pump.
Another possibility is the top right fuse that goes to the control board.
I thought I knew what I was doing, but I can't find the Set Relay options, either form plahing at the panel or reading the manual (DIG-220). Can you give me a pointer on how to find the menu?Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolsean