Poolsean: AutoPilot Pool Pilot settings for new pool

[zmachines]

Poolsean: I will direct this question to you but wanted to post it in the forum in case someone else comes along with the same or related question.
We bought our house about 2 months ago and had a new liner installed in the IG pool. I purchased a Pool Pilot Digital w/ the SC-48 cell. I have approximately 22k gallons of water and have the salt level at 3200ppm according to the Pool Pilot (hasn't been calibrated against a salt water test though, should I?). The system ran for 24/7 for a few days until my water was crystal clear. Now I have it running split 4hrs during the day and 4hrs during the night for the past 1.5 weeks. Everything "looks" good and I say this because I only have guess strips to test with as of yesterday. My K-2006 Taylor kit is due in today so I can get some more accurate numbers.
Now for the question:
1) What is the correct power level for my system? The manual is very unclear in this area.
BTW, my water temp is hovering in the low to mid 90s right now (bath water) if it matters.
2) Can I control a variable speed pump or just a two speed with the digital system?
3) Related to 2, will the system just swap between low and high speed (for a two speed pump) or can it switch between low, high and off?

Thanks,
Michael

[waterbear]

Poolsean: I will direct this question to you but wanted to post it in the forum in case someone else comes along with the same or related question.
We bought our house about 2 months ago and had a new liner installed in the IG pool. I purchased a Pool Pilot Digital w/ the SC-48 cell. I have approximately 22k gallons of water and have the salt level at 3200ppm according to the Pool Pilot (hasn't been calibrated against a salt water test though, should I?). The system ran for 24/7 for a few days until my water was crystal clear. Now I have it running split 4hrs during the day and 4hrs during the night for the past 1.5 weeks. Everything "looks" good and I say this because I only have guess strips to test with as of yesterday. My K-2006 Taylor kit is due in today so I can get some more accurate numbers.
Now for the question:
1) What is the correct power level for my system? The manual is very unclear in this area.
BTW, my water temp is hovering in the low to mid 90s right now (bath water) if it matters.
2) Can I control a variable speed pump or just a two speed with the digital system?
3) Related to 2, will the system just swap between low and high speed (for a two speed pump) or can it switch between low, high and off?

Thanks,
Michael

I can answer the power level question. Start on level 2 and if you cannot maintain your desired FC readings with the output above about 20% then drop to level one and run it there. If you cannot maintain the reading in level two below about 80& then move up to level 3.

Haven't looked at the manual for a Pool Pilot Dig in a while so Sean is more qualified to answer your other questions BUT if memory serves me correctly then you can select low or high with the two speed pump but need to install a separate shutoff since the pump will run in low all the time unless the system sets it to high.

[zmachines]

I can answer the power level question. Start on level 2 and if you cannot maintain your desired FC readings with the output above about 20% then drop to level one and run it there. If you cannot maintain the reading in level two below about 80& then move up to level 3.

Haven't looked at the manual for a Pool Pilot Dig in a while so Sean is more qualified to answer your other questions BUT if memory serves me correctly then you can select low or high with the two speed pump but need to install a separate shutoff since the pump will run in low all the time unless the system sets it to high.

Thanks waterbear...one clarification, did you mean to say that if I "can" maintain FC readings in level 2 then to drop to level 1?
Got my Taylor kit in yesterday, I'll take my first reading tonight.

Thanks,
Michael

[waterbear]

Thanks waterbear...one clarification, did you mean to say that if I "can" maintain FC readings in level 2 then to drop to level 1?
Got my Taylor kit in yesterday, I'll take my first reading tonight.

Thanks,
Michael

No. The idea of the power levels so you operate in the middle of a power range so the auto temp compensation can do it's job. If you need to operate at 20% output or below then drop to a lower power level and restart at 50% and readjust from there. If you need to operate at 80% output or higher then move to a higher level.

I will restate what I said a different way. Start on level 2 and if you CAN maintain the desired FC level with your output set between 20% and 80%
then stay on level two.
If you have go below 20% drop to level 1 and start around 50% and adjust until the FC is where you want it.
if you have to go above 80% the move up to level 3 and start at 505 and adjust until the FC is where you want it.

[zmachines]

No. The idea of the power levels so you operate in the middle of a power range so the auto temp compensation can do it's job. If you need to operate at 20% output or below then drop to a lower power level and restart at 50% and readjust from there. If you need to operate at 80% output or higher then move to a higher level.

I will restate what I said a different way. Start on level 2 and if you CAN maintain the desired FC level with your output set between 20% and 80%
then stay on level two.
If you have go below 20% drop to level 1 and start around 50% and adjust until the FC is where you want it.
if you have to go above 80% the move up to level 3 and start at 505 and adjust until the FC is where you want it.

Gotcha, makes sense now. I'll take some readings and determine the correct setting. Thanks for the explanation. The manual is not clear at all regarding the power level settings.

[waterbear]

Gotcha, makes sense now. I'll take some readings and determine the correct setting. Thanks for the explanation. The manual is not clear at all regarding the power level settings.

Hmmm, wonder if they changed the manual because that is where I learned it. :confused:

[zmachines]

Hmmm, wonder if they changed the manual because that is where I learned it. :confused:

Well, I'm going on memory here, but where it is talking about the different options in the menu, it mentions power level and says to turn to page xx for reasons why and when to change. When you get to that page it mentions nothing about the power level. So I was like "uhhhmm OK" Maybe I am missing the secret page or something ;)

[dc_soccerdude]

I have your exact poolpilot setup except on a larger pool (~35K gallons).

As for power Waterbear is correct. The manual (page 10 start up procedures and you can download as well from autopilot) states start at power level 2 and 50%. Check level and either go up or down as needed. If you get above 75% to maintain then you need to go up to level 3 and reset to 50% and begin adjusting again. If you go below 25% then you need to drop power to 1 and reset to 50% and begin adjusting again.

Also you mention you only run 4 hours day and 4 hours night. This (along with your CYA level) obviously is also just as big a factor as setting the level and %. You need to figure out based on your pump running at high, low or combo high/low how many hours a day it takes to circulate your entire pool volume at least 1 time. This should be the minimum you run the pump and if your pool pilot is on for this entire time then you will need to adjust the power/% based on this time.

As for your number 2 & 3 questions, to the best of my knowledge the pool pilot can only control a 1 or 2 speed pump. It also can only operate at either low or high and cannot turn the system on and off if you use a two speed pump. The default is low speed for 24 hours and you set the system when to switch to high speed for up to two time slots.

Since like you I wanted to be able to turn the system on/off, control low/high and also have a polaris pump I purchased a digital 3 source timer. I use one to turn on/off the pool pilot for 12-14 hours a day depending on time of year. I use the other to control the polaris as needed.

For the 12-14 hours I have the pool pilot on I then program the pool pilot to run 4-6 hours on high during peak heat and for the remaining time it is on low. Keep in mind that when running on either high or low the system is generating chlorine based on your level/% setting.

Lastly, I obvoiusly could circulate the volume of my pool much quicker if I ran the system on high for less overall time but I have found that the system actually uses less electricity and I get better performance (ie cleaner pool) by running the pump for a longer time on low and ~4-6 hours on high. This also lets me keep the power level and % lower on the pool pilot because it is on generating cholorine for a longer period of time. Mine is currently running at level 1 around 45-55% with a temp of around 90-92 degrees. I try to keep my Chlorine level around 6-7ppm with a CYA of 50-60ppm which falls within the "Best Guess CYA Chart" published by Ben in 2003 and what I live by!

If you need any more detailed info on the the setup just let me know as when I did the installation myself both Poolsean and Waterbear helped me so I give them all the credit for a system that works great with minimal effort.

[Poolsean]

Well done. I guess my job here is done. : )

[CarlD]

Who was that masked man? :rolleyes:

[dc_soccerdude]

Just a mere Padawan who learned everything from the Masters :D

[zmachines]

Hey guys, Thanks for the instructions!
I have been down with my back the past few days. Have not done much and didn't get to test the pool until today.
My results are:
FC: 2.4
CC: 0.2
PH: 7.8
TA: 120
CY: ~20

I new I was low on CYA, so I will be adding that as well as some acid to get the PH back in check. I will be using the best guess chart and getting that CYA up to about 60ppm. Thanks dc_soccerdude, you answered all of my questions regarding what the unit can do and I'm glad you told me about the timer. When my single speed pump goes or I find a great deal on a 2 speed, I will have to pick up one of those timers. I am all for using the least amount of power to keep the pool clean and clear. Next on my list of necessities is a pool robot. I hate manually vacuuming when I could be swimming!

Thanks again,
Michael

[waterbear]

Hey guys, Thanks for the instructions!
I have been down with my back the past few days. Have not done much and didn't get to test the pool until today.
My results are:
FC: 2.4
CC: 0.2
PH: 7.8
TA: 120
CY: ~20

I new I was low on CYA, so I will be adding that as well as some acid to get the PH back in check. I will be using the best guess chart and getting that CYA up to about 60ppm. Thanks dc_soccerdude, you answered all of my questions regarding what the unit can do and I'm glad you told me about the timer. When my single speed pump goes or I find a great deal on a 2 speed, I will have to pick up one of those timers. I am all for using the least amount of power to keep the pool clean and clear. Next on my list of necessities is a pool robot. I hate manually vacuuming when I could be swimming!

Thanks again,
Michael

Get the CYA up to 80 ppm and run the FC at 4-5 ppm. Best guess chart is not quite applicable to SWG pools, which do just fine at slightly lower FC levels. Running the CYA at max is important for pH control since it allows for a lower output percentage.

Get your TA down, it will also help with the pH stability and when you adjust pH don't lower it below 7.6 to keep it from rising too fast. The lower the pH the faster it will rise.

[zmachines]

Get the CYA up to 80 ppm and run the FC at 4-5 ppm. Best guess chart is not quite applicable to SWG pools, which do just fine at slightly lower FC levels. Running the CYA at max is important for pH control since it allows for a lower output percentage.

Get your TA down, it will also help with the pH stability and when you adjust pH don't lower it below 7.6 to keep it from rising too fast. The lower the pH the faster it will rise.

OK. So up to 80 CYA is best but I can get away with lower FC due to the fact that the SWG is able to maintain a steady supply (while on of course) of chlorine? Just trying to understand the differences from SWG and other methods of sanitation.

Next, Should I adjust the TA first and then PH or vice-versa?

[CarlD]

Since you have a vinyl pool a lower T/A should not cause you any problems and may help maintain pH better. Besides, pH in the 7.2-7.6 range allows chlorine to be more effective than when it's 7.9. SWCGs do tend to push pH up. Happily, muriatic acid is pretty cheap stuff.

But the way to lower T/A is simply to lower pH. Lower pH to 7.2, but no lower than 7.0. This will lower the T/A a bit (I don't know how much) and then let aeration (ie, splashing, fountains, waterfalls) naturally increase the pH again. Then repeat the process. You "Ratchet" T/A down by lowering pH and aerating to let pH rise again.

So, in answer to your question: Lower pH. The lowering of T/A will follow by itself.