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thilbert
06-15-2010, 07:43 PM
I am in the process of installing an Hayward Aquarite system. Due to how my filter / pump are plumbed, I cannot install the T-15 cell upright. I was wondering if I can mount the cell "upside down."

Poolsean
06-15-2010, 11:54 PM
Not sure what you mean by Upright or Upside Down. The cell can be mounted horizontally or vertically. What's important is the position and location of the flow switch. Follow the instructions in their owners manual.

polyvue
06-16-2010, 01:12 AM
I am is the process of installing an Hayward Aquarite system. Due to how my filter / pump are plumbed, I cannot install the T-15 cell upright. I was wondering if I can mount the cell "upside down."
As PoolSean advised, the axis of the cell is inconsequential. My Goldline manual states that "the water may move in either direction through the cell", so that pretty well encompasses every which way you could install it. The flow switch can be plumbed before or after the cell but in the same section of pipe. There should be at least a 12" straight run of pipe before the flow switch.

thilbert
06-16-2010, 02:35 AM
Thanks all, I figured it really didn't matter since the manual didn't mention anything about orientation. Working great so far.

I prepped my pool before installation and had a test reading of 3500 ppm of salt, but the unit only reports 2900. Which do I trust?

BigTallGuy
06-16-2010, 09:26 AM
Thanks all, I figured it really didn't matter since the manual didn't mention anything about orientation. Working great so far.

I prepped my pool before installation and had a test reading of 3500 ppm of salt, but the unit only reports 2900. Which do I trust?

Which one to trust is the big question. I can only assume that you took water samples to a Pool Store to test for salt readings. I did the same thing only I went to at least 5 different Pool stores. I got at least 4 different readings. One pool store was at least 200 - 300 PPM's higher. INITIALLY, I DID NOT KNOW WHO TO TRUST EITHER.

Did they use Test Strips to give you the 3500 PPM reading or did they use the Electronic tester? Test Strips in my experience were notoriously inaccurate.

If you used Morton Pool Salt there is PPM information on the bag itself. How many bags have you put into the pool? How many gallons does your pool hold? How long has the salt actually been in the water? HOW MANY PPM's DOES YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL REQUIRE FOR YOUR SYSTEM? Please post back with your actual gallons of water.

My unit took a day or two for the "Low Salt" light to go out. According to the installer, that is normal as it takes a short while for the salt to dissolve even though you can't see it on the bottom of the pool.

According to my mathmatical calculations based upon gallons and bags, vs. the actual measurements from the various pool stores I ended up within approximately 400 ppms of each other, which is roughly a 40 lb. bag's worth of salt. What I finally determined was that the "Low Salt" light went out on the SWCG control unit and the system was generating chlorine without trouble.

My suggestion is to go slowly, you certainly do not want to over fill the salt. Test, test and then test. Check your chlorine levels. My pool has a slight salty taste already so adding more un-needed salt is, in my opinion not good.

zmachines
06-16-2010, 10:50 AM
I'll second what BTDG said. Calculate your pool size and use the guide on the salt bags. Then put in less than needed, and slowly add over a few days to get it right. I would trust your SWG since it will or will not operate based on its calculation of your salt concentration.

My pool required 14 bags (40lbs) which my system measured 3200ppm (3000 optimum) and it is working great. In fact, I took a sample of water to the local pool store late yesterday since all I have is guess strips and they wanted to know who had serviced the pool since it was so balanced. Of course immediately after saying this they told me I need to buy a few "tabs" and keep one in the skimmer "just for good measures", and I should shock the pool at least once a week because it will kill the stuff that the SWG misses AND I should throw some algaecide in once every week or two. I told them thanks for testing the water, turned and walked out.

thilbert
06-16-2010, 11:19 AM
Well, it turns out that I just needed to let it run over night. The unit is reading 3200 and my testing reads 3500. I figure the 300 ppm difference between the two is nothing to worry about.

All other numbers are just about perfect. Still need to bring up the cya a tad, but other than that I couldn't be happier.