Aqua Green in color

[Dirtboy6]

Hello all. I have a 33' above ground pool that had a really bad algae problem. We use Pristine Blue so the pool ppl said to drain it so we did.

My question is we got 90% algae out filled it up put 3 lbs of shock in it now it's a aqua color. Before the shock it was a dark color. Will the shock make it clear or will I need to waite till I put clarifier and Pristine Blue in? I also head not to use Pristine Blue what would you recommend

Thanks

[CarlD]

Whoa!

First off, Welcome to the Forum.

Secondly, put those other chemicals aside for a little while (like until the next millennium! ;) ) You are going to need to stick to chlorine and a few other simple chemical--but no clarifiers, flocculents, algaecides, phosphate removers, etc.

We have to start by getting a baseline. I'm guessing your pool is between 22,000 and 25,000 gallons (the former if your water is 3'6" deep, the latter if it's 4' deep--the water, not the pool), unless you have a deep end or deep center.

We will need the following tests--the pool store can give them and when they try to sell you something you can say "I'm just checking on the stuff I got from you last time".
FC: Free Chlorine
CC: Combined Chloramines
or
TC: Total Chlorine (Since TC=FC+CC, we only need either TC or CC)
pH: Yup, THAT pH--same as chem class. But swim water needs to be slightly more basic than 7.0 neutral--7.2-7.8
T/A: Total alkalinity--a measure of the buffering of pH
CYA: Cyanuric Acid, called Stabilizer or Conditioner. You need some to keep chlorine from disappearing too fast, but too much causes other difficulties.
CH: Calcium Hardness. For a vinyl pool there is no "too low" despite what pool stores say. There is, however, a "Too High" so we need to know that.

You should get yourself a proper test kit and learn to use it--it's not hard, but it's well worth the $50 to $70 it costs, paying you back a 100x over every year. We recommend the Taylor K-2006 FAS-DPD test kit or the Leslie's FAS-DPD Service Test Kit, which is basically the same thing. Unfortunately ALL FAS-DPD test kits, regardless of brand are only available on-line--your odds of finding one in a local pool store are zippo (I found just the FAS-DPD chlorine test, without the others once--5 years ago!). Order it today --one of the other mods can point you to the best place to buy.

We also need to know if you've added either a copper-based algaecide or ammonia-based one. Do NOT add either if you haven't, and don't add more if you have.

Next I advise you to go to our "DEALING WITH ALGAE" section and start reading the threads at the top that are stickied. They aren't long and they are easy.

Also read up on the B-B-B system of pool care. You'll be AMAZED to know that most of the chemicals you ACTUALLY need for your pool are sold far cheaper at your grocery store or local hardware store and are easily available:
Bleach, Borax, Baking Soda, Washing Soda, Muriatic Acid.

The process you need to go through is very simple.

In a nutshell:
You need to put enough chlorine in your pool to poison and kill the algae until it's completely and totally dead--and get it out of there.

You'll need to keep the pH correct, and make sure you don't throw any chems in willy-nilly because the pool store said to.

There's nothing mysterious or magic about pool care. It's simple and easy, even when you have problems. We are here to help but you'll have to do all the heavy lifting--it's your pool. Your most important ingredient will be P.O.P.P. which is Pool Owner Patience and Persistence.

We REMOVE the magic from pool care. But there is no magic solution you dump in and POW! your water is ready.

So...load up on bleach, and start reading--and get us those numbers!

Carl

[Dirtboy6]

Thanks! Leaving for church the only things I have added are Acid, Pristine Check 32oz, 3lbs Super Shock so far.

[Dirtboy6]

Color is looking better should I add bleach now instead shock?

[aylad]

"shock" is something you do to the pool, not a product you put in it. It means to add chlorine (bleach or other chlorine) til you get up to shock level. Re-read Carl's post, post the numbers he asked for, and I'm sure we can help you clear it up.

Janet

[CarlD]

Pristine Check? That's one of those products made by a company that won't say what's in it--or how they claim it works. One of their products uses potassium monopersulfate, but not this one.

We always recommend against using such products without more information (and the manufacturer's hype doesn't count).

[Dirtboy6]

Ok I got my water analysis today don't look good since I added 3 lbs of Super Shock Saturday evening.

TC - 0
TA - 129
CYA - 7
CH - 0
PH - 7.7
This is the kicker -----> Phosphates - 2500

[Dirtboy6]

I just picked up 3 jugs of off brand bleach from walmart. I had my pool water tested today this is what it looks like


TC - 0
TA - 129
CYA - 7
CH - 0
PH - 7.7

I'm on well water and found out today I have a lot of Phosphates which is 2500. I was not sure on how to get the phosphates down so I bought a bottle of Phosaway. My pool holds around 26,000 gallons.



Thanks


EDIT by Watermom --- Dirtboy it is better to continue in the same thread where people have already been helping you with your pool problem. So, I merged the new thread you started this evening with your other one. Let's keep it all here instead of starting any other new ones about this particular problem. Thank you.

[Watermom]

Please note my EDIT message in your post above.

Regarding the phosphates --- you got "poolstored." Selling people phosphate removers is the latest money maker for pool stores. I suggest that you not add it to your pool. Also, there is no way a pool store could discern a CYA reading of 7.

At any rate, since you have well water, that means there is a possibility of having metals in your water. So, I am going to move this thread to the metals forum where you will have more people who are familiar with this set of circumstances notice this thread.

[aylad]

HIgh phosphates is the latest and greatest way to separate you from your wallet. There are very, very very few pools that can't be cleaned up with chlorine. Buying stuff from the pool store and throwing it into the pool hoping it will help is not going to get you anywhere, and is very much liable to increase your problems. You need to add chlorine, and maybe a little CYA. With CYA of 7 (don't know how they even measured that), the sun is eating your chlorine as soon as it goes into the water., I would add CYA through a tube sock hung in front of the return (target 20 ppm) but it takes several days for it to dissolve. Until then, you're going to have to make frequent chlorine additions to keep chlorine in your pool.

Janet

Watermom and I apparently were answering at the same time and she beat me to the "post" button!

[Dirtboy6]

Thanks! Sorry bout the post.

[Watermom]

Thanks! Sorry bout the post.
No apology necessary. That is one of the things the moderators are here for -- to help get things organized. This forum is a big place and sometimes it is hard to tell where to post a question, especially for a new member. We gotcha covered! No problem.

[Dirtboy6]

That's a sign of good moderators.

When adding bleach do I just pour along side of pool AWAY from liner?

[Watermom]

You can either pour it in front of a return jet reaching as far as you can away from the side of the pool (I think this is probably what most people do) or pour it into the skimmer. Either way pour it very slowly and avoid splashing it on you or on the liner.

Regarding your comment about good moderators --- thanks. We really try! Appreciate the comment.

[Dirtboy6]

I added 4.26 gallons of bleach total for 26,000 gallons of water. Does that sound like a good start? I will sit and wait. This sounds like a dumb question but does the bleach help turn the water clear?

Thanks

[aylad]

The bleach will sanitize the water, and help do away with the Pristine chems, but the filter is what removes it from the water.

Janet

[Dirtboy6]

First of all let me say THANKS everyone for the help. Asking my local pool stores for help is a joke all they want is your money. I took todays water sample by they did not give me a sheet just told me what to buy. I told them no way!! I understand I need stabilizer but then he told me I can help you out if you buy from me arrrrrrr. Also he could not test my CYA they were out he said. Anyway this is all I have for today



PH - 8.0
TC - 2
TA - 200

I added 4.26 gallons of bleach yesterday. Tc went from 0 to 2 Ta also went up as far as CYA It will be 7 or lower so I will get the stabilize to put in. In a 26,000 pool what would be a good lb for the stabilizer.

Once again

Thanks

[polyvue]

First of all let me say THANKS everyone for the help. Asking my local pool stores for help is a joke all they want is your money. I took todays water sample by they did not give me a sheet just told me what to buy. I told them no way!! I understand I need stabilizer but then he told me I can help you out if you buy from me arrrrrrr. Also he could not test my CYA they were out he said. Anyway this is all I have for today

PH - 8.0
TC - 2
TA - 200

I added 4.26 gallons of bleach yesterday. Tc went from 0 to 2 Ta also went up as far as CYA It will be 7 or lower so I will get the stabilize to put in. In a 26,000 pool what would be a good lb for the stabilizer.
Have you discovered The Pool Calculator (http://www.poolcalculator.com/) yet? It's a pretty nifty application. One of its functions allows you to enter your current chemistry levels, number of gallons in your pool etc and then advises on the approximate amount (number of ounces, cups, pints or gallons) needed of the chemical you're trying to increase.

[Dirtboy6]

Thanks! will check it out

If I add muriatic acid how long do I need to wait till I add stabilizer?

[Watermom]

Probably 2 or 3 hours would be fine. How are you planning to add the stabilizer? Most people think it dissolves fastest if you put it in an old sock and hang it in front of a return jet.

[Dirtboy6]

Thought about the tube sock. What would be the best way to tie it off from the side. If I don't go with the sock should I slowly add it to the skimmer?

[Watermom]

Yes, but if you do put it in the skimmer, you must leave your pump running and not backwash for up to a week. CYA dissolves really slowly (takes up to a week) and if you backwash before then, you'll just throw it out. Also, don't retest for it for a week so you won't accidently get too much in there.

Having said that, before you add it, can you give a current set of water testing results -- everything. Also, how does the water look now?

[Dirtboy6]

TA - 200
PH - 8
CY - 7 <--- not too sure no higher
FC - 2

Water is looking better been filtering for the past 3 to 4 days. No more green blue but cloudy I vac all dead algae out did a good backwash till clear. added muriatic acid half gallon.

[Watermom]

If you are going to add the cya to the skimmer, wait to add it until your water clears up because if it is still cloudy, you will most likely be backwashing and you'll just lose the cya. Wait until water is clear to add it to the skimmer OR add it in front of a return jet (in an old sock) and then the backwashing is no longer an issue.

[Dirtboy6]

Thanks. do I need to still add bleach everyday since I think i am loosing a lot. It seems to be clearer the next day after adding bleach but by the next day turns cloudy again.

[Watermom]

Yes. You need to be testing at least twice and 3x or more per day is even better and each time, you need to be adding enough bleach to get your chlorine level back up to about 10. It is best if your testing times are early morning and in the evening and hopefully at least one other time. While you are still having cloudy water, you need to follow this testing regimen EVERY DAY. When you finally get to the point where you lose no more than 1ppm of chlorine from sundown to sunup and your water is clear, then you can let the chlorine level drift down and maintain it between 2-5.

If you let the chlorine level yo-yo up and down, it will take a long time to clear the pool. The more times per day you test and redose with bleach back up to 10, the faster you will clear the pool. In your pool, each half gallon (2 quarts) of 6% bleach will raise your cl by a little over 1ppm. So, that can help you determine how much bleach you need to add each time you test.

[Dirtboy6]

I added 4.26 gallons of bleach last night. I got a water 2 samples this morning. I took them to 2 different pool stores. One was a well known pool supply store other local.

First store local
PH - 8.1
FC - 5
TA - 210
CYA - 8
CH - 0


Well known pool store
PH - 8.0
FC - 5
TA - 140
CYA - 30
CH - 0

Got home tested 20 mins. ago
PH - 7.8
CL - 0

BTW pool is clear now best it's been.

loosing CL now we have a down pour.

[Watermom]

Boy, it sure would make it easier for you if you didn't have to rely on the pool store for testing! We like the Taylor K-2006 that you can find a lot of places. This link shows a place that has a good price for it.

http://www.amatoind.com/taylor-k2006-test-p-555.html

If you are able, it would probably be a good idea to invest in a good kit. It will pay for itself in no time!

Add more bleach tonight.

[Dirtboy6]

Thank going to get a kit.

[Watermom]

May not be able to find that one locally in a store. May have to order it online. If you do, in the meantime you might be able to find a cheap 5-way kit from Walmart that would suffice in the meantime until you are able to get a good kit. I think it is about $15 at Walmart. The Taylor kit I mentioned above is around $46 I think if I remember correctly. (And worth every penny!)

[Dirtboy6]

Kit on the way. Crystal clear pool thanks to all moderators. BBB the way to go!!

[Watermom]

Doing the happy dance for you!!! Congrats on a good job and glad you ordered a good kit. It will make your pool care so much easier! Have fun swimming in that clear pool!

[Dirtboy6]

Thanks again pic to come

[waterbear]

At any rate, since you have well water, that means there is a possibility of having metals in your water.

There is no question at all about him having metals in the water...Pristine Blue is copper sulfate!

[Dirtboy6]

Test kit came today