Pool Filled! Quick question

[dmarsh70]

Well they finished acid washing by 10:30 am and by 5PM I had 12,300 gallons of water in my pool! Less than I had expected. Using the irrigation line opposed to a hose was sweet - just a tip i thought I would mention in case anyone is getting ready to fill.

Ok - the pool guy came over, started everything up. Seems to work good and all that.

He said he doesn't want me to shock the pool for the first couple weeks to give the marcite time to set and he doesnt want to bleach-stain any aggregate. Said he wants me to keep the FC around 1.5.

I am ok with 1.5 or so because that appears to be a bit low but a sanitized level (correct me if I am wrong, please. I am a NEWBIE).

My question to you guys/gals - don't I have to shock the water to like 10PPM to kill anything/everything or is a consistent new pool, new water maintained at 1.5 - 3.0 adequate?

He also said not to do anything with stabilizer or anything for a bit, but didn't define how long a "bit" was.

We got to talking about chemicals and balance and I used my new found wealth (ALL FROM HERE) and he said "wow, you know more than any pool owner I've built for, where did you get all this so quick?" - I told him I read it in a book somewhere.. he laughed...

Finally, when can we swim?? I know the PH is going to up alot with the marcite - and i'll keep bringing it down. But if the FC is 1 - 3 and the ph 7.2 or so, can we swim in it? Is there a time period when it's all new that you should just wait?

Thanks to each and everyone of you. I've bombarded you with a ton of questions, yet you are so obliged to answer. I really appreciate it!!

David

[AnnaK]

You must be so excited!

There is no reason why you can't swim in pH 7.2 and FC between 1 - 3. Your skin might feel a little dry and your eyes might burn at the lower pH but it won't harm you in any way. The FC level is a sanitizing level but make sure you keep it there and don't let it drop. That means daily testing and additions of an appropriate amount of bleach. Once you're past the initial marcite setting time you'll be able to add stabilizer to help protect against chlorine loss from UV.

In case you haven't found it yet, the Pool Calculator (http://www.poolcalculator.com) is a terrific resource to help you determine the amounts of BBB chemicals needed for your pool. For instance, it tells you that 38 oz of 6% bleach will raise the FC from 0 to 1.5 in 12,300 gallons.

Do you have a FAS-DPD reagent based test kit? It's a "must have", really.

Although that water is probably a little chilly have fun swimming!

[CarlD]

OK:

Great questions.

1) Your builder told you don't shock the pool for 2 weeks. If you do and the walls stain, he'll say you didn't follow his directions.

2) You CAN keep a pool sanitary at FC of 1.5--but that means no stabilizer and you have to check it at least 2 times a day, morning and evening, adding bleach if/when it drops below that. If you can add a third check in the middle of the day, better still. If you see a CC measurement above the minimum (normally 0, but with an FAS-DPD kit you can test to see if the CC is actually <0.5 or really <0.2--in which case you are OK) you'll have to add more chlorine to get rid of it. You cannot let it fluctuate much.

3) I'm not sure what "a bit" means for how long till stabilizer, but if you are going to add ANY (say 10-20ppm) you'll need to maintain FC at 2.0, at least.

4) Ask him about using a small amount of PolyQuat (the only type of algaecide we recommend) to help ensure you don't get an algae bloom. The way I describe it is: look at the various algaecides. If one says "60% Poly...<something, something>..." as the only active ingredient, that's it, regardless of whether they call it Black Algaecide., Mustard Algae Fighter, or whatever.

5) I don't know why you cannot swim when your FC is 1.5 and your CC is 0.

[dmarsh70]

Annak: Thank you much!! The PH rises all the time so I may be able to get in above 7.2 :). I was more worried about an initial "shock".

I do have a test kit. Not quite sure what FAS DPD means. but I do have all the little droppers and little vials. I put it in a little computer -- I think it's a colormeter... and it spits out the numbers for
FC / TCL / PH / ALY / CH / CYA

BUT NOT CC - but I am starting to think CC is TCL - Still havent gotten a grasp on the free chrlorine - used up chlorine - total chlorine thing yet.

By the way my tester is a lamotte color q 7. I went that route as I am color blind.

CarlD:

I will be checking it every day at least 2 times a day and I will maintain it. I actually have it about 3.5 right now. I do believe I can add stabilizer today or tomorrow. He is coming over today to start doing chemicals. We just talked and I get the impression he wants to get the pool balanced. I am ok with it as long as he reads this forum first.

I hate to sound arrogant, but I think I can now do it better then he can.

I will ask about the Poly Quat today.

I do have a calcium hardness question but I will put it in the right forum. That has me wondering.....

[AnnaK]

Since you have results for FC and TC you can calculate CC.

Total Chlorine (TCl) = Free Chlorine (FC) + Combined Chlorine (CC)
or
TCl - FC = CC

I know ChemGeek will faint at this simplistic explanation but CC represents the FC that's bound up with organics and is not available to do any sanitizing work.

If your test and the subsequent calculation produce a CC of 1 ppm or more you may have an algae bloom starting even though your water is still clear. That's when it's time to shock the pool. However, as long as you stay on top of your water treatment with daily pH and Cl testing and add bleach as required you may never have to shock. I've had my pool for 5 years and haven't shocked it but once after a lengthy absence during which the pool was unattended.

You'll get the hang of all this soon enough.

[CarlD]

Anna's got it pretty much right.

I think TCL must be TC, so subtract FC from it to get CC.

FAS-DPD is simplyh the best form of chlorine testing that's available to home or professional users. It can measure FC and CC up to 100ppm and is very accurate. It is not to be confused with DPD chorine testing, which can bleach clear at too high FC levels and make you think you have NO chlorine.

FAS-DPD is a powder you mix into a little bit of pool water, which then goes pink/red. You then add drops of a reagent, counting drops until the fluid goes from colored to clear--each drop represents .5 or .2 ppm of chlorine (depending on which amount of water you use). You then add another reagent that picks up CC, and use the first till it's clear the same way. If there's just a tinge of pink and the first reagent clears it with just one drop, I'm not really worried...but if it takes more, Anna's right--something's cooking.

[dmarsh70]

Thanks guys!! I think I got it now.. .maybe :)