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cdognight
05-11-2007, 11:51 AM
I have one of those blue box test kits from Wal-Mart that I got last year. Breaking that kit out this year, I have somehow lost the little sheet of paper with the instructions for performing each test.

Chlorine and ph tests I remember how to do, but do not remember the more involved tests for TA and CYA. Would someone with this kit mind posting those instructions?

Also, I have that kit only because of a failed attempt at getting a kit from Ben last year, and know that I would be better off with a much better one. What should I get?

Thanks.

crazimom
05-12-2007, 11:59 AM
TA....fill to alk line, add 1 drop of alk sol. A , swirl to mix. Add 2 drops alk sol. B , swirl to mix. Add alk sol. C 1 drop at a time counting the drops until the water becomes clear or yellow. Multiply the # of drops by ten to get your TA.

CYA...Fill with pool water to alk or hardness line. Add stabilzer sol. to fill up to stabilizer test line. Cap vial and shake for 30 sec. Wait 2-5 min. Slowly pour mixture into CA tube until black dot is no longer visible, read ppm values on side of tube.

Hope this helps...

cdognight
05-12-2007, 05:19 PM
You are a life-saver! Thanks. :)

Jeffski
05-14-2007, 10:38 AM
I use this same kit. Is it accurate? It seems to be working for me and is certainly more accurate than the test strips I've tried (althought the FC readings on the strips are pretty close).

waterbear
05-14-2007, 11:51 AM
The kit is going to be much more accurate than strips but there are a few things you should know about it's limitations.
First it will ONLY test for TC, it will not test FC or CC.
Second, The hardness test is a total hardness test, not a calcium hardness test. IMHO, total hardness is useless to test in pools. BTW, all the test strips I have seen also only test total hardness. The hardness test in this kit sometimes does not work properly if you santizer levels are on the high side.
Other than that this kit is an excellent value for the money and is probably the best kit you can get for under $20!
Third, the pH test in this kit is not neutralized for high santizier levels as well as the Taylor reagent is so if you sanitizer is much above 5 ppm your pH will read high from the interferance. The pH reagent in this kit IS better than many of the others that come with inexpensive kits, however!

Edit: You really should invest in an FAS-DPD kit such as the Taylor K-2006. You would be amazed at how much easier water testing is with a better kit!

catnip
05-14-2007, 01:30 PM
Waterbear, I agree with your recommendation to move up to the Taylor K-2006. I used the AquaChem kit from WalMart for a year and found the hardness test to be difficult to read and now I understand why the pool store CH reading were so different! I've been using the K-2006 for a month now and find it easier to use, read and interpret.