Pool Pilot Chlorinator not working?

[mkelley]

Anyone have any experience here with a Pool Pilot not working?

Mine SAYS it's working just fine -- has 100% rate, 3000 salt level, all cells check out and no need to add anymore salt and no issues to report. But my chlorine levels (as tested myself with a drop kit) have dropped rapidly to where I have almost NO chlorine in the pool (at least that's what the kit says -- does the solution ever go bad?).

I tried the boost mode but if anything this seemed to LOWER the chlorine levels (they were pretty low before I tried it and now the test seems to come back almost clear after 24 hours of boosting).

Pool has no problems otherwise (and I get algea normally anytime my chlorine gets low) but I don't know what to do now. I can add bleach and I'm sure that will solve the problem temporarily, but my chlorinator ought to be working.

Is it time to call the pool service people, or can the experts on this forum help?

[nater]

Which model do you have?

On the DIG-220, you can enter the "test pool pilot" mode form the menu and it should cycle through salt ppm, temp, etc. and show you a voltage and amp reading (20v , 5.1 amp) for each given power level selected. I think a failing cell shows an increase in power in some cases.

You can also sample water directly in front of a return jet while the autopilot is on and test for CL.

Have you checked the cell for corrosion? Double check the cell electrical connections, etc.

How long is your pump run time?

[mkelley]

Yes, I do go through the test menu and every looks fine -- then again, I don't know what I'm looking for (3000 is the salt level, and it does report voltage and other cell statistics, but since I'm not sure what's normal I don't know if it's bad or not).

Normally when there is a problem (like cell corrosion) I get a red light on the pilot and it asks me to check it. No red light, or failure indicated on the panel (which it does) so I don't think that's a problem. Same for connections -- once before the return for the pilot was blocked and needed to be cleaned and the red light came on and the display told me of a problem. But no light, no display warnings -- it seems as if it's working fine.

I run the pump about 8 hours right now (for my solar). This is actually far more than I usually run it (about 5 hours is all my pool needs and in the past this was more than enough for the chlorine).

Based on all this I'm guessing there must be a catastrophic failure in the year old Pilot, because otherwise it should be telling me something, right?

[nater]

I'd double check the Cl level of the water coming directly out of a return jet with the unit on. Take a plastic container, put it in the pool directly in front of a return jet, and use that as a sample.

Also, if your pH is on the high side, cl effectivness is reduced which you'll detect by testing a low FC residual. I target between 7.4-7.8.

If the display is working, and no red lights are on, I'd agree that you SHOULD be producing Cl.

Have you done a full set of water samples? If you post your results, something could jump out.

[poolbee]

What reading do you have for your stabilizer? Is it too low? I have a AutolPilot Dig.220 and found that I had my best water readings for Cl and FC when I kept it at about 40-50, even though AP recommends a higher level. I found that my pH would raise too fast when it was higher. I don't know why this was.