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Jakebear
10-10-2006, 06:07 PM
This year will be the first year closing using the BBB method.

We’ve had the pool through 4 winters so far and have never blown the lines out or lowered the level in the pool. All the pool piping is SS clamp type, black plastic like you use in an underground irrigation system which can be frozen.

All we have ever done mechanically is drain the solar system and disconnect the pump, filter and take them inside after a good cleaning and seasonal “once over”. We remove the skimmer valve and put “Gizmo’s” in the skimmers.

Chemically, we have used winterizing kits, sampled, shocked and circulated monthly as long as there is no ice on the surface. This year I need help with that part since I do not intend to buy a “Kit”.

I plan to add a dose of PolyQuat and raise the chlorine level before shutdown. I will continue the monthly sample and circulate routine ---- How much poly and how far to raise the chlorine is my dilemma, also is there anything else that I need to add?

Current numbers are:
Water Temp 73
pH 7.5 by titration
FC 5.8 ppm (FAS-DPD)
TC 5.8 ppm (FAS-DPD)
CC 0 ppm (FAS-DPD)
TA 80 ppm (by titration)
CH 230 ppm (by titration)
Phosphates <100 ppm
CYA = 45 ?? (turbidimetric) (I have drained 6400 gallons and will let it refill with rain and well water, which should give me around 30ppm or less in the spring.

CarlD
10-10-2006, 09:16 PM
My take?
Wait till the water is about 60 deg to shut down.

In the meantime, raise FC to 12-15 and keep it there.
I'd like to see pH at 7.6-7.8, but at 7.5 I'd leave it alone and not mess with it.

Other than that, I think you are all set. I'm doing the same--my water is about 64 deg so I'm waiting till it goes to 60 or less to shut down. Meanwhile, I have a safety cover and it's on all but the last few clips and everything that can be done (ladders, steps, umbrellas) have been put away.

Jakebear
10-11-2006, 12:06 PM
OK & thank you. I neglected to mention that I use a drop in sump pump to circulate during the winter. I take the pool pump off line, drain and remove it when freezing weather comes. The pool probably will not be down in temp yet but we will see.

Is there a particular order to doing the polyquat and raising the FC?

CarlD
10-11-2006, 09:28 PM
When you add the Polyquat, let it circulate for 24 - 48 hours. Whatever your chlorine level (FC) was, it will drop to or near zero--that's what happens when you add a lot of Polyquat. Then you add chlorine again to get FC back up. That's all.

jagwire22
10-11-2006, 09:47 PM
Will the chlorine level stay high enough all winter without adding more? And if it is necessary to add more, how do you do it with no pump for cirrculation?:confused:

Thanks for any help!

CarlD
10-12-2006, 06:59 AM
Once the water gets really cold, there's no chance for algae growth, or need for more chlorine. Algae has alot of trouble growing in water below 60deg, and is more and more inhibited as it gets colder. Rule of thumb is that algae doesn't grow AT ALL below 50 deg. Since I'll get a foot of ice or more on my pool, I know the water is in the 30's--no algae growth there!

The idea is to keep algae from starting between the time you close and the time it's too cold to grow. The heavy dose of PolyQuat further inhibits algae growth and the shock level kills anything there. The covered pool tends to hold chlorine levels far longer because there's no ultra violet getting to the water. Even the mesh covers work very well at this (I have a mesh safety cover).

Once I close, all I do is check the water level once a month and syphon off water if it's too high.

Poconos
10-12-2006, 09:43 AM
As for algae growing in cold water...read my post (#3) in this thread.

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=327

I can't explain it.

Al

Jakebear
10-12-2006, 12:50 PM
Thanks to all for your comments.

Jagwire, My experience (4 winters) has been checking the FC level monthly as long as there was no ice on the pool. I have a LoopLoc Cover. Over a month period I was almost always real close to zero Free Chlorine.

Understand --- this is all before I knew any better (this forum).:o

Looking at my past records I used CalHypo to do a “double shock” (Raise FC to ~ 11 ppm) and circulate 12 hours with a sump pump --- cover up and wait another month. I never had algae doing it this way (maybe just lucky),:eek: just lots of calcium dust and other fine debris on the bottom + a few worms and spiders.

This year will be a bit different using the Quat and Bleach rather than a KIT, but I will probably continue with the monthly (or more often) test, circulate and add bleach to maintain a FC level which will be consistent with Ben’s Best Guess Chart.:)

karrde97
10-13-2006, 01:21 PM
It got cold in central Illinois quick and I don't have a heating system either. We were pretty much done around Labor Day. I shut the pump off and before I knew it, the pool turned green. I don't plan on putting a cover on since I don't have a lot of trees around.

Do I need to put something in and circulate? I use BBB. I'm confident that I can get it all clean in the spring with no problem. Am I wrong?

Our electrical rates are going up by 55% next year. It'll be uneconomical to run a pool soon. I switched to running pump ~8hrs/day.

CarlD
10-13-2006, 10:29 PM
As for algae growing in cold water...read my post (#3) in this thread.

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=327

I can't explain it.

Al

It's the ice-fishing!:eek: