Multi Port Valve Gasket

[CyberGypsE]

Is there a way to repair/replace the gasket in a multi port valve? Seems the gasket is built in and can't be replaced You have to buy the whole assembly
Thanks,

CyberG:confused:

[Poconos]

Welcome to the forum. We really need some information to help. Not all MP valves are the same. Manufacturer and model as a start.
Al

[aquarium]

Is there a way to repair/replace the gasket in a multi port valve? Seems the gasket is built in and can't be replaced You have to buy the whole assembly

I was told the same load of bull at one pool store - "That'll cost you $150 for the assembly."

Then another plumbing store with a pool section sold me the gasket for $8.

Yeah, make and model would help. If it's a Baker-Hydro, that's the same as a Hayward, gasket-wise. :p

[CyberGypsE]

Al, Thank You. Glad to be part of Pool Solutions. My first summer trying the 3 B’s and very happy with the results. I find the questions and answers very informative.

My filter is a Jacuzzi Laser 250L with a 7 way valve. Appears the gasket is fixed and only way is to replace the gasket is to buy the complete valve assembly which is expensive. Was thinking of some sort of gasket compound that would not break down because of pool chemicals? My problem is leaking thru the port discharge opening. Not all the time but when it does it’s very annoying. I removed the valve and lube the gasket. Works for awhile than starts to drip causing me to lose prime when filter is off. Sometimes when pump is running I left up on valve handle to remove air bubbles in the strainer basket. Would that have any effect on the valve? CyberG

[Poconos]

Not familiar with that valve but I can't believe gaskets are not replaceable. Only one I'm familiar with is mine, a Hayward. The gasket is glued in place and to remove the old one you destroy it by chipping and scraping the channels that it sits in. Once the channels are cleaned you can install a new gasket. Lot of debate on the forum about how to install a new gasket. If it comes to that, replacing, I can tell you what worked for me. Others disagree on the technique and will certainly chime in.
Al

[Davenj]

Check the link below. Looks like you can not replace it. Alot of the places I looked at stated the 7 way valve is discontinued.

http://www.poolcenter.com/parts_filters_jacuzzi_laser.htm

I live in TR also.
Dave

[elsie]

A couple of years ago I, too, had leaking through the port discharge, assuming I understand that to be the port to which is attached the waste hose? If so, a guy I was then using for technical problems explained to me an easier fix. Of course, then being new to the pool scene, and not being at all a technical person, I have no idea why it was easier, but it may lend some credence to your issue. By the way, I also have a Hayward multiport.

What he did was install--and I don't know the technical name for it--a handle and ball assembly on that discharge port just a few inches from the multiport (before the waste hose attaches) which, when closed, stops the leak. When I need to backwash or waste, I then turn the handle and the assembly opens and I can do what I need to do, and then I close it again.

Elsie

[Poconos]

Elsie,
He just put a ball valve in the waste line to block that off. You have to manually throw it to block flow through the waste line. I did the same thing. For a long time I had some leakage into the waste line so that is the easy fix...put in a ball valve. Lately when I figured the best way to install a spider gasket, the leak to waste problem is resolved.
Al

[CyberGypsE]

I was using a rubber plug in the discharge port but I like the idea of
Installing a ball valve. Seems like a simple solution :)
Thank You All!
Dave, Live off Hooper Ave near OCC Collage.

[elsie]

You mean I actually contributed something here, ignorance of technical terms notwithstanding? Amazing!

[Davenj]

You can pick up a ball valve up the street at Lowes. Fairly inexpensive.
Near Cedar Grove school myself.

[Poconos]

Not so sure but at least a year ago the ball valves were significantly cheaper at Lowes comared to Home Depot. Same exact valves. From everything I've read on the forum over the years the blasted spider gasket in any manufacturers valve is a constant source of problems. The simple ball valve in the waste line is a cheap and easy fix. I went a little further because my waste line runs about 150' slightly underground to a stream and downhill about 10'. I added a check valve that vents to air so when I am backwashing and kill the pump the rushing and siphoning water simply bleeds air through the check valve so water flow from the filter is eliminated. The 150' of line simply drains out.
Al

[aquarium]

I recently replaced the spider gasket in a Baker-Hydro/Hayward multiport. I just used silicone lubricant to seat it in the grooves, so I expect it to eventually come loose during a switching operation. I wiggle the handle a little before changing direction so maybe it won't stick to the diverter, but this does seem to be a lame contraption. Glueing it in place just makes it -really- hard to replace. I might use a few small dabs of silicone -sealant- in strategic places to hold it in place when it fails again.

[Poconos]

Oh My Gosh....silicone seal? You're opening a can of worms. Just joking, you may find out that some here say you don't even need to stick it in place. Last fix on mine I used SS too. Only I cleaned out the channels, squished a liberal amount of seal in them, placed the gasket, then put a wax coated plastic sheet over the gasket...wax paper will work fine I now know, then bolted the thing together and let the spring force the upper part onto the gasket. Let it cure for a day. The wax paper keeps the silicone from sticking to the top part and silicone seal won't stick to wax paper. Use a box cutter blade or an X-Acto knife to trim off excess silicone and it's been holding just fine.
Al
PS: With silicone seal, duct tape, and PVC you can do just about anything.