View Full Version : I hate mustard algae
topless
07-26-2006, 08:52 PM
I'm so pleased to find some help with my pool. I've about given up trying all the various products from the pool stores.
Anyway, my pool is inground, 15,000 gallons. I have used a 3" tablet chlorinator since I bought the house with the pool. I took a water sample in for testing, yesterday after using a quart of Leslies copper algae control. I shocked it then circulated for 2 hours and let it sit for 36 hours before back flushing, vaccuming to waste. I was so disappointed to find the mustard algae returned overnight. It's about as bad as before I vaccumed it out.
Here are the testing results:
FC - 10+
TAC -10+
ph - 7.2
TA - 260
Calcium Hardness 500
CYA 150
They told me to add a 1/2 gal of muratic acid and test again. I added it this morning, so tomorrow I was going to take a sample in again.
I was pretty clear of algae until about 3 weeks ago when we got a midnight rain, I have a power cover, and usually close it to keep the rainwater out.
Until my test kit gets here, I have a test kit that I bought from one of the pool stores.
b2001
07-27-2006, 02:53 AM
My pool has been Baquacil based summers previous to this one; my past problems have been more with white mold rather than mustard algae. However, I converted to chlorine this year and got lazy with chemical maintenance recently, and have had what appear to be mustard algae problems like what you describe. I would vacuum it and it would be as bad one or two days later.
My solution was to keep the pool at chlorine shock level for about three days and after that, making sure that my chlorine stays at an acceptable level based on my cya. Initially, I shocked it for one day, and the problems came back, so a few days later, I went through the second and longer "shock" process. I haven't had the algae problem now for about two weeks. I plan on shocking about once every two weeks for preventative measures. I'm using bleach from the store.
Also, I used a bottle of polyquat algaecide - I'm not using the copper based algaecide, there have been discussions against using it on this forum, if I recall correctly. Do a search on polyquat on this forum for specifics. Lowe's, Home Depot, and Tom Thumb supermarkets carry it in the Dallas area.
Read these articles, if you have not:
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=365
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=1113
and read as many posts as you can. If you don't already know, one thing you will find out if you keep reading, is that your cya is high and the tablets will keep adding to it. I'm having a different problem, I don't use tablets - bleach only - my cya is constant and low, so my chlorine levels go down during the day, hence the problems that I'm having if I slip up on chemical maintenance.
According to the best guess cya chart in the first link above, an FC of 10 is acceptable for your pool based on your cya level - but you would need to bring the FC to 25 for it to be at shock level.
Usually, I pour a bottle or two of bleach in my pool if I know its going to rain and my chlorine levels are on the low end of where they should be, and I haven't had any problems with rain.
Hope this helps for starters ....
topless
07-27-2006, 09:21 AM
This was the only time I used the copper based algaecide, and my last. I've been using some that I bought from Sam's Club that the main ingrediant is diemethyl benzol chloride (I read it, but doubt if I spelled to correct). Prior to that was the Bioguard algaecide and Banish. I'm not satisfied with any of the products since I can't keep the algae out of my pool.
According to the bleach calculator, I should add 2-1/2 gallons to raise my FC over 20ppm.
KurtV
07-27-2006, 09:59 AM
topless,
According to the Best Guess table, for your level of CYA (150 ppm according to your first post) you need to get the chlorine to 25 ppm to shock. You'll need to keep it at that level until the algae is gone and the water will keep the same level of free chlorine overnight.
Testing several times a day and adding bleach to return the chlorine to shock level will give you the best results. At a minimum, test and chlorinate in the morning and evening but three times a day will probably get this problem cleared up more quickly.
Best of luck.
topless
07-27-2006, 12:37 PM
Thanks for the help. Unfortunately my start is delayed by rain today. I've got 8 gallons of bleach and my Bioguard test kit all ready to go, but I closed the cover to keep the rainwater out. It's supposed to stop by tomorrow.
Simmons99
07-27-2006, 02:32 PM
Also you need to brush the pool daily.
topless
07-31-2006, 09:20 AM
I'm hoping my 234 test kit comes today. I've been using my standard test kit, but it's so limited.
I recalculated my pool volume and it's more than I thought. It's a semi-kidney shaped gunite, but it's volume is 18,000+.
So far I've used 8 gallons of bleach since Sat., vaccumed to waste 1 time, and brushed at least 2-3 times per day. I've run my Polaris after brushing, to pick up dead bugs and tree debris from the pool bottom. As soon as I switch back to the side jets, I get foam. I've had foam ever since I put in the last algaecide about 2 weeks ago. It very strange, it comes and goes. At times it almost covers the entire pool, other times it's completely gone.
I'm about ready to just drain down the pool 2/3rds and start over. Maybe that way I can get the CYA level down enough to get the chlorine to work.
It appears my FC is over 10ppm, about the same as my TC. ph is still 7.2, but I'm not sure about anything else until the 234 test kit comes.
duraleigh
07-31-2006, 09:50 AM
Draining 2/3 of your pool, if water is cheap, is a good option. You will dilute all the products that have been tossed in the pool, get your CYA to a manageable level, and reduce your calcium which is fairly high.
If you choose this, coincide it with the arrival of Ben's kit. You're gonna' be amazed at how suddenly accurate and precise you'll be. You will have your water manageable from the start and you'll be able to keep it there.
topless
07-31-2006, 12:18 PM
I needed a part for my Polaris, so I took a water sample in to be tested. The guy stuck in a test strip and said the chlorine was too high and would throw off all the other tests. So, I guess I'm done until I get my 234 kit.
topless
08-09-2006, 01:51 PM
It's now been 2 weeks since I ordered (and paid for) the 234 test kit. I still don't have it so I can't get some of my readings.
Last test I did:
FCL - 4 ppm
TCL - 4 ppm
ph - 7.2
The algae is gone completely, however I still have something strange happening. The pool is crystal clear, but debris on the bottom, circulating the side jets. I run the Polaris, it stays clear, debris is picked up. When I shut the pump off and switch the valve back to the side jets, it spews out white stuff that ends up as foam on the top of the water. I've backflushed and rinsed several hundred gallons (6"-8" of water level) and it still is foaming. It takes about 24 hours to dissipate. I haven't put anything but water in the pool for 2 weeks and before that only bleach. I can't figure out why it's doing this. It has done this 3-4 times in the last 2 weeks.
DavidD
08-09-2006, 06:55 PM
It's now been 2 weeks since I ordered (and paid for) the 234 test kit. I still don't have it so I can't get some of my readings.
Patience my young polywang. :) Ben's kit is the best, but it may take a month or so to get it. Hang in there. Your water is clearing up so you are doing something right!;)
Last test I did:
FCL - 4 ppm
TCL - 4 ppm
ph - 7.2
Looks good, if CYA is between 30 and 50 ppm....
When I shut the pump off and switch the valve back to the side jets, it spews out white stuff that ends up as foam on the top of the water. I've back flushed and rinsed several hundred gallons (6"-8" of water level) and it still is foaming. It takes about 24 hours to dissipate. I haven't put anything but water in the pool for 2 weeks and before that only bleach. I can't figure out why it's doing this. It has done this 3-4 times in the last 2 weeks.
Any way to describe the white stuff some more? Is it grainy, flaky or just foam? Maybe a picture? My guess, and it is only that, is that it is leftover by products of all the stuff you previously put in there, foaming as the filter changes modes. I would think about shocking once again.
Dave
topless
08-10-2006, 03:00 PM
I just found the Fedex tag on my front door, dated 8-4-06. This is to my shop where we don't ever take any delivery at the front door, in fact it's always locked and Fedex should know that. Just one of many reasons I refuse to use Fedex in my own business.:mad:
So, tonite on my way home, I will retrieve the test kit from the idiots at Fedex and post my results.
The foam is just on the surface and is a very fine texture, like beer foam. Yesterday at 6pm, it was still there, but by 10 pm it was completely gone and the water was crystal clear again. It took 2 full days to disipate.
DavidD
08-10-2006, 05:11 PM
I know this is going to sound like "The same ole poolforum standard answer" but If I were you, I'd add more bleach. Now that you have Ben's test kit, you will be able to accurately monitor your FC levels. Bring your FC up to shock level and HOLD it there for a couple of days. I would think this should help. Have you ever put anything with copper in your pool? The reason I ask is that staining may occur if you have so shocking may not be the answer in this case.
Dave
P.S.- On another note, I won't use anyone BUT Fed Ex. They are a little more expensive, but when you've got to have it there on time......:)
topless
08-10-2006, 05:27 PM
I know this is going to sound like "The same ole poolforum standard answer" but If I were you, I'd add more bleach. Now that you have Ben's test kit, you will be able to accurately monitor your FC levels. Bring your FC up to shock level and HOLD it there for a couple of days. I would think this should help. Have you ever put anything with copper in your pool? The reason I ask is that staining may occur if you have so shocking may not be the answer in this case.
Dave
P.S.- On another note, I won't use anyone BUT Fed Ex. They are a little more expensive, but when you've got to have it there on time......:)
I canceled my Fedex account because of over-billing and lousy service. Best example: Overnight a package to a customer in California (I'm in Kansas) after 2 days it had made it to Oklahoma City. I haven't shipped anything by them for over 2 years and I got a bill from them last week, when I called they didn't know why. Then this feeble attempt at a delivery. If my son hadn't noticed the tag, I'd still be looking for the kit.
I used some copper based algae killer just before I found this forum. I do have some discoloration from that, but I expect the bleach to take care of it over time. I kept the FC high for over a week, although without a good test kit, I'm not sure exactly how high. The foam thing is so odd. It only happens the way I describe it: clear, run Polaris, foam. By the time it goes away, I need to run the Polaris again.
DavidD
08-10-2006, 05:58 PM
Sounds like MY experiences with DHL and UPS. To each his own I guess.
If you used copper algaecide "pre forum educated", then you still have copper in the water. I saw where you recently did a partial drain so hopefully the level is negligible. You might think about getting your water tested for copper just to be on the safe side.
Here's my theory on the foam, as I previously stated, I think it is leftover by products in the water. When you "shut the pump off and switch the valve back to the side jets" the combination of the pressure and air mixing with the water and "stuff" creates the foam. Do as I suggested in my previous post and let's see what, if anything changes. Try to bring your FC up to shock level before using the Polaris again.
Dave
chem geek
08-10-2006, 09:36 PM
topless,
Would you mind letting me know exactly what your chlorine level was (if you know it) when you saw the algae go away? Was your CYA still at 150 or did you drain and refill some of your pool water before the algae went away? I'm trying to determine what level of chlorine is truly needed to get rid of algae and a very high CYA case such as yours is a good one to help make that assessment.
Ben's table says to shock with 25 ppm of chlorine so I'm wondering if that's the level you believe you attained. Even if you didn't measure the result, you probably calculated how much chlorine to add to get to a certain level so was it 25 ppm that you were shooting for?
Thanks,
Richard
topless
08-11-2006, 09:53 AM
Well, it turns out that the package wasn't my test kit. It was a package from customer of mine.
chem geek, I have no idea what my free chlorine level was. The local pool stores just told me it was over 10ppm after 2 gallons of bleach and after I added 6 more gallons of bleach over a 4 day period, it was too high for them to test.
chem geek
08-11-2006, 11:01 AM
OK thanks. When you get your own test kit, assuming it's a FAS-DPD test like the one Ben provides, then you will be able to test even high chlorine levels. Just so you know, even the pool store would be able to determine your high chlorine levels if you give them diluted samples of your water, say diluted 4:1 using distilled water which means 1 part pool water plus 3 parts distilled water (tap water would probably also be OK since you would be checking only for extraordinarly high chlorine levels, but tap water will likely either have some low levels of chlorine in it or slightly higher levels of monochloramine which reports as Combined Chlorine, but still wouldn't be more than a few ppm). You would then multiply whatever reading they give you by 4. This isn't super accurate, but is still better than nothing.
topless
08-11-2006, 11:11 AM
I hadn't thought of that. If the rain stays away, I'll take a sample in this weekend.