View Full Version : We Finally Dug Our Ground (Pics)
AGP18by33
07-23-2006, 11:06 PM
Hi everyone,
Seems like forever since my last post. We finally have our yard dug.
We will be installing an 18 x 33 x 52" Oval AGP. (Pittsburgh, PA)
Here are some pictures:
"BEFORE"
437
"DURING"
438
"AFTER RAKING"
440
We still have to "tweak" the levelness some as you can see by the last picture.
Now for some questions:
1. We were told that we can use 2" x 8" x 16" under our uprights by the pool manufacturer. Thats what we got and I want to be sure that those will work.
2. We will be installing a plastic barrier 12" up the wall and 12" on the floor to protect the sand from washout, as suggested by the book. Question is what mil of thickness is best?
3. There are several ruts from the bobcat that was used to level the ground which a wonderful neighbor did for us. What are your suggestions for getting a nice smooth surface to start building on? I raked the entire area to get it somewhat flat and I know the leveling process is the hardest part. Should we just get an extra ton of the Masons Sand for a base for the entire area and then level that, then start building the pool? Will the sand sink into the ruts eventually? He has a power compactor that we can use and also a 20 foot screed or screet. He also used his laser transit.
4. Our metal strap assemblies for under the pool were folded in the box. They go together as one long, then short, short, short, then a long one for one complete strap. A total of 5 pieces to make one strap. We assembled as much as we could but the longer ones that were folded still have a crease in them dispite setting 4 patio block on them overnight (the ones we purchased for the uprights and buttresses). How can we get them totally flat without the crease?
5. We are debating on the filling part. Our fire dept. don't do that anymore, so we were told to try other communities. How much can we expect to pay in our water bill (sewage will be turn off for the fill) if we fill from the hose? How much to get it truck in approx.? I can't seem to find out how many gallons we will need.
We are missing some of our parts/screws/bolts, so we will be calling the company to have them shipped. I don't think they will give us a hard time with this.
Sorry this is long with alot of questions. We are not going to rush this process as we are very attentive to the small details. We may not get to swim this year but thats ok. We waited this long to build the darn thing.
I will be posting the pictures of the progress.
Thanks for everyones help in advance. You have all been wonderful with my previous questions.
Rhonda
sevver
07-23-2006, 11:14 PM
15743 is what the bleach calc said for your gallons.
I also would not put the blocks on sand, they need to go on the dirt. I think that using a plastic barrier is not recommended as it will trap water in case of a leak. If your pool will be a bit buried all the way around it then there is no where for the sand to wash out to.
hrsdennis
07-23-2006, 11:54 PM
Hi, looks like you are off to a good start.
The blocks are fine. The plastic is good idea. Get the cheapest available as this is just a little extra protection, not a big thing. Do not use sand for leveling. Use your existing dirt (compacted) or some type of fill from your local landscaping supply yard. The best advice I can give regarding sand is to study these photos closely. It makes all the difference in the world.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=4411
If you take one of the blocks you got for the uprights, lay the strap across it, then gently tap it with a hammer you can make them perfectly flat again.
The pool filling part is a local issue. Around here everyone just uses the garden hose hooked to their outdoor water tap.
I would love to see more photos and more questions are no problem. Best of luck, Dennis
SADSUE
07-24-2006, 08:31 AM
From a quick google search on gallons:
Another Brand - Misty Pines 18´ x 33´ Oval Pool Only, (15,087 Gallons)
or follow this link -
http://www.backyardcitypools.com/swimming-pools/Pool-Volume-Calculate.htm
matt4x4
07-24-2006, 08:50 AM
You would need 4 4000 gal trucks, up here in Canada they would set you back about 140 per truckload - so close to 600.00.
For plastic barrier, you can go relatively thin, i used the typical 6mil house vapor barrier.
I like using screenings or crusher run for the base plates to sit on - packs very solid with a plate compactor and some water, but as Dennis said, your existing top soil will work as well.
Your metal straps won't straighten by setting weight on them, but try hammering the crease flat on your garage floor or something similar,(hammer from both sides alternating) that's one way to get creases out of flat metal without the proper equipment to do so.
AGP18by33
07-24-2006, 09:43 PM
Thank you all for the awesome replies. I just knew I could count on getting answers here.
I will follow your advice on the block issue. That helps to know that we can just set them on or in the dirt. We will probably dig them in then transit all of them.
We will also do the hammering to get those creases out. I never thought to do that.
Also, I called the water billing office and they will charge us $7.00 per 1000 gallons. Pretty cheap if you ask me.
Thanks alot everyone. I will definately follow everyones advice and will be posting more pictures.
Rhon
hoffmans
07-24-2006, 09:54 PM
Don't forget to keep the pictures coming!
:)
SherrySt
07-25-2006, 09:29 PM
Wow! Your municipality will actually separate the water and sewage bills? We are in Beaver County (Chippewa) and you are charged a flat rate per gallon no matter what. :(
AGP18by33
07-25-2006, 09:42 PM
Hi again,
I called the water company and they will not take off the sewage part, ($3.00 of the $7.00), No big deal as it will only cost around $110.00 to fill it. Our friend in Cranberry said they discounted his. We apparently aren't so lucky.
So for the update... We got 7 tons of sand delivered. Here is what that looks like in case anyone wants to get a visual aid: Well never mind the picture. It says I am at the limit. Here is the link to my pool photo book instead:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/veterinarytechnician/album?.dir=a97bre2&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos
Also we have put in our stakes so we can paint our circles then connect them to make the oval.
We also got our straps built too and the blocks layed out for leveling. I didnt get pictures of that yet but will when we actually get them in the ground.
I do have to admit, so far it really hasn't been as bad as I thought. Once the
patio blocks are in and laser transit leveled, the rest should go together pretty quickly considering that we both read the book 36 times!!!
What is hard is that we both work daylight and don't get home until after 4:00 pm. Tonight I worked until about 8:30pm and that seems to be the pattern since we started. My spine isn't where it is supposed to be though from all the raking and shoveling of some uneven spots.
Talk to you soon and more pics to come.
Rhon
p.s. I can't believe we are finally doing this!!!
AGP18by33
07-25-2006, 09:46 PM
I forgot to mention that we hammered the creases out of the straps and that worked like a charm.
Also, we were missing some bolts and screws and Swim-N-Play Customer Service called us back today and are shipping them out.
Apparently the guy likes to talk because in 1/2 an hour, he told me how to build our pool step by step. He was very nice though and did help with a few extraneous questions about the parts.
Rhon
Trimom
07-26-2006, 09:22 AM
I do have to admit, so far it really hasn't been as bad as I thought.
I am so happy for you AND so jealous! I am glad that someone is having an easy time of putting up their pool. We seem to run into one setback after another.
I know what you mean about wanting more time to work on the pool. I am convinced we could get done if I could ship my boys (2 yrs, and 10 months) off somewhere for 48 hours!
AGP18by33
07-26-2006, 11:12 PM
Thanks Trimom,
It is hard work and dedication. I am beyond determined to get this thing done by time we are on vacation (to porchville or poolville).
Tonight we layed out our bottom rails so we know where our blocks will go. There is the new picture in my yahoo photo book:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/veteri.../ph//my_photos
It's the last one in there.
Believe me, we have had, and are still having some setbacks. We are missing some screws and bolts for installing the uprights. Customer Service was called and they called back the next day and are shipping them. Also two of our top decorative covers are missing...being shipped with screws hopefully.
Tonight...while we were setting up the bottom rails, we need 10 Plastisol Coated Rails for the sides and 12 Plastisol for the oval ends. What we got was 12 extra painted white rails. They are the same ones that go on the top of the wall under the top ledge. We did get the 10 right ones for the sides though.
We had to just use the white painted ones just to be able to measure for the blocks since they are the exact same size.
I called Customer Service and also sent them an email. I looked on the SwimNPlay website but can't find the part. I also asked them if I can paint them with some kind of protective coating if they can't get the right ones out to me.
I also asked them if they have a quality control department that inspects the boxes for all the right parts.
I did however tell them that we are not quite angry yet as there are still alot of little things that we can do in the meantime while we are waiting. Also that I did get good customer service results with the guy I talked to on the phone. Plus we are being very patient.
Now that we know where our blocks are going to go, we will dig them in tomorrow and laser transit level them all, then set up the bottom rail in hopes that we get results for the Plastisol ones that are needed.
Another setback was having to dig out more of the side because we didn't include the side buttresses in with the measurement predig. It took me about 2 hours last night and my hubby about 1 hour tonight. We only had to go back about 6 inches though because we did include 3 feet added onto the pool width. This meant that the side braces would be right up against the dirt. Not good, had to dig out a bit.
Sorry this is so long. I would just like people to learn from our mistakes to save them time.
We both work daylight and when we get home about 4:30pm...we hit the ground running! My scrubs are off and work clothes are on! We come in when we can't see anymore. GET 'ER DONE has new meaning for us.
Good luck and remember that we all only have to build our pools ONCE if done correctly. I AM NOT doing this again. Our pool company wanted $1,200.00 to build it for us not including the dig and sand!!! No thanks. That will buy alot of BBB, Mikes Lemonade, and floatees.
Best of luck and God Speed.
Rhon
oh...and...GET 'ER DONE!
hrsdennis
07-27-2006, 12:08 AM
Rhon, I hear and feel your pains.
I do have a note to add about what you have going on in your backyard.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/veterinarytechnician/detail?.dir=a97bre2&.dnm=8438re2.jpg&.src=ph
Anyone here looking for good tips and advice check out this picture. There has been some discussion in this forum as to the pros and cons of blocks under the uprights. I consider them essenstial leveling aids for beginners.
This pool has been laser leveled. That means to me that every one of those blocks is set at the same level. Leveling in between blocks is pretty simple and it looks to me like that was done very well also.
It looks to me like things are shaping up perfectly. Thanks for all of the photos.
Dennis
AGP18by33
07-27-2006, 06:16 PM
Hi Dennis,
Thanks for the compliments. We still have to dig those blocks into the ground then laser level them.
We needed to see where they are going exactly so what we did was set up all the rails in the bottom plates as if we were actually going to install the wall.
Now that we know that the blocks are where they need to go...they will be dug into the ground then laser leveled. From that point, it will be easy to level between the blocks or use crusher run if necessary.
Also any more high spots in the actual pool area will be easy to take down as well since we can use the level blocks as a guide.
The picture does look deceiving though probably because I was standing at the higher ground behind the fence and shooting downward.
It is only 6:00 pm now and I wanna get some blocks into the ground because our neighbor is lending us his transit. We really feel fortunate to have Tom as our neighbor. He has been very generous with his equipment and his very expensive tools. Not to mention his time.
Anyways...more pictures to follow. Back to work I go.
Thanks again,
Rhonda
sevver
07-27-2006, 06:35 PM
I have been following along, and so far it looks like a topnotch job. There is nothing like a project that is not rushed, you get time to consider things and are able to figure out how to make it right. Laying out the rails first is definately worth it, I just love precision. You are using a laser or a transit to set the blocks? The transit can be questionable if you don't have someone behind it who will tell you that you need to lower it 1/4". The laser can get to be as exact as 1/8", which is just beautiful.
AGP18by33
07-27-2006, 11:12 PM
Hello again.
Our progress from tonight is:
We checked our inventory again. Since we have had some missing parts.
All ok so far. We even counted the wall screws.
We duck taped all the bolts on the straps that will be under the sand. We doubled up on this. We already had to buy a new liner because my Aussie "Roo" thought the other new one was a big bag of blueberry Purina or something. Set us back ~$350.00. (Old posts with this story).
We found the lowest block laying on the ground that we laid out using the rails.
We dug it in and leveled that using a regular level. We leveled in every direction even diagonal. We will use this one as a point of level for the transit.
Tom brought over his laser transit and we set in 2 other blocks. It got dark and we couldnt see anymore.
DH just loves that thing cause it beeps. He is 12 all over again.
While using the transit stick...I had the other level and used it to make sure that the transit stick was straight up and down and not leaning backwards or forwards. Then...since some of them are actually a bit below ground level, I place another block on top of that and made sure that it was straight left and right and back and front and diagonal in both directions.
Pictures are in my photo book at yahoo. I am glad people are following this and that everyone is keeping tabs on our progress. I know that if we are screwing up...you guys will let us know. We feel very safe in doing this with you all having our backs. Huge thank you to all.
Link to pics:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/veterinarytechnician/album?.dir=a97bre2
You know there will more tomorrow. I think we are actually obsessed with this thing. We can't seem to stop to take a break for a day.
The best part of all is that I lost 4 lbs in 5 days.
Thanks,
Rhon
tenax
07-27-2006, 11:55 PM
nice work , rhon! as i've followed through all this i can relate..from a roofing standpoint..did my 3500 square ft of shingles roof myself this past may and everyday it was back up on the roof..2 nails in my foot, carpal tunnel in both hands, my bad back to start with , cramps, 2nd degree sunburn..but by god, i was a madman and got it done..i may have had a wee bit more motivation as everytime something was aching and sweat was burning my eyes, i thought of the 15,000 dollars in labour i saved doing it myself (boom province of alberta..it's charge whatever you like days for contracting..if you can even find someone to do the job:)) i celebrated in a small way after it was done by promptly ordering a pool heater, new pump, pool vac, piping, solar cover and reel and chlorine generator..3,000 dollars later i feel like i had a darn good meal:) keep the faith and keep sharing your good stories..i suspect you'll also feel like i did when i put on the last shingle..elated..but the aldrenaline will just be gone..and you'll enjoy that vacation so much knowing you did it yourself and that you're going to be swimming in your new pool. (my wife reminds me often that pools, at least in our area of the world, are pretty decadent:)) darn right
hrsdennis
07-28-2006, 02:59 AM
hey Ronda, you got me a little red faced on that one. I could have sworn all those blocks were set and level. Looks like they will be soon though. :)
Here's a tip surveyors us to keep the sticks level. Use a rocking motion. Lean the stick away and bring it forward. You will see the arrow, the line and then the arrow. Or just listen for the beep tone if you can stand that noisy thing, I shut mine off. Anyway, that truly gets the stick thing down to a one man job.
Keep it up, Dennis
AGP18by33
07-28-2006, 11:02 PM
Yeah that beeping gets annoying. I had the tone turned down on it.
We got 6 more blocks done tonight. That laser transit is awesome.
Sure does make things alot easier for us. It's pretty easy to set up
too.
My question though is that we have been leveling the blocks in all directions
with a regular bubble level in addition to the transit. How important is it to really do this? Should we just be focusing on the "depth" level with the transit and if we only do that...will the weight of the pool uprights level out the blocks, left to right, and front to back from the weight of the water?
Another thing I am worried about is one side of the pool is on a sandy clay soil and the other side is clay and rocks/stones. I am afraid that one side will sink.
And one more for the road...we got all the rails for the oval ends. They sent us 24 white painted rails. We should of had 12 of those with a Plastisol coating to prevent corrosion. The painted ones are for the top of the wall and under the ledges since they are not exposed to the elements like the bottom ones. I called CS and also emailed them, hubby also called and left a message too. Since we will be ready for the rails soon, and we don't have them...is there something we can spray on them like Rustoleum or something to protect them?
I realize that they would have to be roughened with sand paper and then primed but is this something we can do and still be safe?
This isn't the first thing the pool company has messed up on. We are currently awaiting our sheet metal screws (we need panhead and got some other kind of sheet metal screw), a truss head bolt, 2 decorative covers that go over the uprights on top, and 4 of some other screw.
Needless to say...if we have to wait for our rails, above ground pools will be obsolete by time we get them. I was so angry when I saw they were not the proper ones...I dropped that "f" bomb so many times that I need to go to Church TWICE on Sunday, crawling on my knees and beg for forgiveness for the stuff that was flying outta my mouth.
I cannot believe the incompetence of some pool companys. Anyways...sorry about all the questions.
I didn't get pictures tonight because I was filty from head to toe and my camera was in the house. Will get some tomorrow though as we will be at it all day again. We are both off and DH is going golfing Sunday.
I can handle that wall by myself right???
Rhon
>^..^<
AGP18by33
07-29-2006, 11:07 PM
Well today we set all but 4 blocks. Yeah...almost done. Then the REAL digging starts.
When our ground was dug, the bobcat didn't get it perfectly level which we expected that due to the ruts it creates.
Now when we put in our first block, we used the one that seemed at the lowest point and dug it into the ground level with the surface. We used that block to level the rest with the transit. WOW the high spots are unbelievable. We have some blocks that are probably 6 inches in the dirt. Granted that they are level
but they are deep. It seems the center is higher than the ends.
That is too much dirt to shovel out with hand shovels, plus it is hard compacted clay, so we are gonna get my dads rototiller to break it up and then screed and shovel out the loose dirt.
Any other ideas???
Sorry no pics but we are so filthy from head to toe when we are done.
Has anyone else ran into this problem? If so how did you deal with it?
Thanks
Rhon
AGP18by33
07-30-2006, 08:18 PM
Hello.
We got all the blocks done today and they are level. Next we dug the trenches for the rail and outer straps to lay on the ground. We also added some small gravel in there for drainage.
It rained today and our soil is all clay and man does it hold the water. We didn't want our bottom rail and outer straps sitting in water so thats why we put the gravel down.
The gravel layer for the rail is less than an inch but it has to be better than them sitting on clay ground.
Now we just have to dig out some of the center so it is level with the top of the blocks.
We have to wait until it dries out though so we can use the tiller in there. I hope we don't regret not using some crusher run under our 2"x8"x16" blocks for the uprights.
Updated photos are in the photo book. Heres the link again:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/veteri.../ph//my_photos
Any advice or opinions are greatly appreciated. Thanks
Rhon
hrsdennis
07-30-2006, 11:24 PM
Hi, after spending some time on you photo site I think I would have done the leveling a little different. This is to late for you but it may help others. I would have got the ground, overall, much closer to being level before starting the blocks. I would level the ground to well within an inch before touching the pool parts. Your only option now is to remove a lot of clay from the pool area the hard way. In the beginning stages you would have had options of crusher run fill or machinery for digging.
You are doing a great job, don't get me wrong. I just looked at all of that leveling that still needed to be done to get the entire pool area at or below block level, my heart felt for you.
You will make it I know and thanks so much for the pictures.
Dennis
AGP18by33
07-31-2006, 09:48 PM
You are so very right. We are still moving along nicely though. And guess what??? We not only got our missing parts package from Swim N Play today, we also got the oval end bottom rails too. We called them last Monday or Tuesday about the missing bolts...we called them on Wednesday regarding the rails and incidently left a message with the part number on their answering machine.
Well today...Everything came in. AND IT'S RIGHT. You cannot believe how happy I was with that quick service and it didn't cost us a dime.
So anyhow about tonight. My daddy let us use his rototiller and DH tilled the high spots inside the pool (which is like 3/4 on a slight uphill grade), then used a long cement rake to rake all the dirt and hidden stones that popped up to an area that I can shovel out. This being done...you would not believe the difference in the level already. Also I shaved down the "plateau" that was in front of most of the blocks so now we just have to make another pass with the tiller and we are level with the tops of the blocks.
The mistake we made was not being out there with the transit stick while Tom was digging. That would have told us that we were slightly uphill on the length of the pool. One side is level but it gradually goes uphill.
I dug a small trench between the blocks (shown in the last pictures) and put some small size gravel in them for the rail to sit on. I did this because when it rained the other day...I realize the rail would be sitting in water. Even though they have a Plastisol coating on them, I was just imagining those thing corroding at the speed of light. I cannot believe how long it takes clay to drain and dry out. It takes forever.
Do you think this is a good idea with the gravel because I went to Lowes and asked for Crusher Run and they had no idea what I was talking about. I know there is another name for it but I can't think of it.
Also, after the pool is done, we still have the surrounding area to grade out yet. We have a large dirt wall close to the buttresses on one side. Brian wants to do a retaining wall but we would still have to dig out to "push it back" about 2 foot.
I would like to say that I am happy to have the blocks level first so now we know that when the "pool" area dirt is down to the top of the blocks, we then know that it is level as well BUT you are right...it shoulda been done the other way. My only justification is that I am losing weight rapidly with all this digging. Plus with the parts error, we wouldn't have been able to put it up anyways.
Right now from the looks of things...we should be starting the actual build in about 2 days. So we are not that far behind. But your right and don't tell my DH I said that because he will expect that from me all the time. ;-)~
Thanks again for your insight and helpful hints.
Rhon
hrsdennis
07-31-2006, 11:28 PM
It all sounds good, especially the right parts. Always a good thing. Just one more thought. If you are using sand for a cove I think I would go with the plastic strip under the cove area to prevent any sand from settling into the rocks below the rail.
For anyone else following this thread, I am unable to get into the picture file from the link above. The link on page 2 works fine.
Hope to see more soon, Dennis
AGP18by33
08-01-2006, 08:36 PM
Sorry about the link. I must have copy/pasted the wrong one. Here's the correct one:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/veteri...m?.dir=a97bre2
We have some plastic to install on the walls. Our directions say to go 12" up and 12" out onto the floor. They say it is optional but we are doing this.
We also have some 4 mil black plastic that we are gonna put on the ground before the pool gets built, it will go under the sand and extend beyond the pool boundry. Here is our sequence:
After ground is more level (too hot to work outside today) we will
1. Lay out the black plastic even over the blocks. This will go across the entire pool surface. Cutting excess where necessary.
2. Layout the bottom track over plastic.
3. Bring in the sand and pile in the middle to allow room for "wall" plastic to go onto floor.
4. Install the wall.
5. Tape the other plastic onto wall with duck tape and run all the way onto pool floor.
6. Smooth out the sand and build the sand cove. Mist with water and tamp.
7. Liner and water.
8. Thank Jesus we are filling our pool and that we got through it.
9. Swim until the sun comes up.
Looks good on paper huh?
It was so hot here that you can hardly breathe when you go outside. That is just a bit too dangerous for us. It is supposed to be almost this hot tomorrow too but we have to go somewhere so we will work when we get back around 7:00pm. Tilling, scraping and shoveling.
Our goal is H2O by Sunday eve.
Rhon
hrsdennis
08-01-2006, 11:23 PM
Swimming on Monday or bust. :) :)
I would only do one thing different. I would lay out the bottom rails and connect them. Next I would unroll the plastic and put sand in middle area. I would then use the bottom rail as a blade guide and cut the plastic so that it fits just inside of your bottom rail. I would then pull the plastic over the sand and away from the bottom rails. Plastic just becomes a mess if you try to unroll a side wall over it.
And the drainage you created with the small stones will become useless if you lay plastic over them. The water will sit on top of the plastic and rust the rail.
After the wall has been installed, put the plastic back into place. Then tape into place your cove barrier and start spreading the sand.
Just my thoughts, Dennis
AGP18by33
08-03-2006, 07:32 PM
Hi,
Well we got the ground as level as its gonna get last night. No work today due to rain.
We also have the rails set up too. I also ran the transit around to check for level again so I can sleep before we build. Next goes the plastic barrier which is 4 mil and I hope that is enough. We will cut this inside the rail once we pile the sand in the middle.
I was confused about putting plastic over the sand but I reread it and you said to "pull" the plastic over the sand then install the wall. Makes perfect sense now. Then put the plastic back to the walls again.
We will also put some barrier up the walls about 12 inches after that so that around the edges, there will be double protection as it will be double thick.
New pictures are in the book.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/veteri...m?.dir=a97bre2
More to come.
Rhon
hrsdennis
08-03-2006, 11:44 PM
Hey Rohn, progress is looking good. Yes, you got the plastic thing right. The ground looks good and it should be ready for sand.
The only link to your pictures that is working for me is the one from my post on page two???
Let's try this and see if it works.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/veterinarytechnician/album?.dir=a97bre2&.src=ph
I can't wait to see that wall up. Get the blender ready, it's almost time.
Dennis
AGP18by33
08-04-2006, 09:53 PM
So today we got the plastic laid down and the sand on top. Man that is alot of trips with the wheelbarrel.
Tomorrow the wall goes up. We are technically on vacation now and you wouldn't believe how fast I drove home.
More pics to follow.
Dennis...I hope this is what you where talking about with the plastic. Please tell me it is!!! : )~
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/veteri...97bre2&.src=ph
Will our yard ever look decent again??
Rhon
hrsdennis
08-04-2006, 10:21 PM
Perfect so far. Be sure to assemble all of your side supports and pressure plates before you install the wall. I do this before the sand but that should not be a big thing. They are needed to hold the wall up as you are placing it into the bottom rail.
Hope for more photos tomorrow, Dennis
AGP18by33
08-05-2006, 01:05 AM
I am so glad you said that. My hubby and I were wondering. Our directions say to put the wall up and then the side supports but that didn't make any sense. Now that the sand is holding the straps down, I guess the side supports can stand up now instead of falling over.
Makes it easier. Thanks
Rhon
AGP18by33
08-06-2006, 10:27 PM
WE DID IT!!!
We finished building on Saturday and started filling Saturday late afternoon.
Here is the picture I took today, (Sunday) as it was filling.
I don't ever want to do this again. Our next house will have an inground or above ground already in place.
The deck comes later either this year when its cooler or next year. We were in it when the water was up to our knees. We couldn't help it. As I type this at 10:30pm, it is just about 1/2 full. We shut the water off for the night and my DH will start it at about 7:00am when he leaves to go golfing.
Anyways, here is the picture:
465
And to everyone who chimed in with help and tips and compliments, thank you all. Especially you Dennis...your the bomb. You have been wonderful with all your great hints and everything.
Now for our next trick....
Getting the BBB down to a science.
Rhon
AGP18by33
08-07-2006, 01:42 PM
Well our pool is about 1/2 full or a bit more. We haven't put in the skimmer or return yet until it is an inch below those.
Our water is very clear right now and sparkly but I feel like I should be adding something to it. I will post numbers shortly.
Thanks,
Rhon
hrsdennis
08-07-2006, 10:39 PM
Great job, I am so happy for you. I sure hope some others here can take over and help you keep the water clean and safe for swimming.
Enjoy the pool, Dennis